Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion

70_NPORT said:
Semi related question: I'm about to begin the tear down. The front end is gonna be up on jack stands (naturally)...so is it preferable to put the entire car up on jack stands or just the front end..or doesn't it really even matter? I'm inclined to put all four corners up.
Click to expand...
Just the front is fine.
 
70_NPORT said:
So Im gonna need a new pwr brake booster as well? Can't use the one already on the car...its a "pwr" drum booster....makes no difference? Great...it's kind of tricky swapping out brake boosters from what I've seen others do.
Click to expand...
If yours looks like this one, you're good to go...
5473500-LEF__ra_p.jpg
 
70_NPORT said:
So Im gonna need a new pwr brake booster as well? Can't use the one already on the car...its a "pwr" drum booster....makes no difference? Great...it's kind of tricky swapping out brake boosters from what I've seen others do.
Click to expand...

It's not so much tricky as awkward. Not a lot of room to work over the steering column.
I use a battery impact with a long 3/8 extension with an impact universal joint (ball type) and socket. You can use a ratchet but because there is limited space and the extension is running at quite an angle, you will fight to keep the socket on target. 1 shot with the impact and the nut is off.

Getting the old one off is the easy part. Getting the nuts started on the replacement is the trick but if your hands aren't too big and you hold your face just right it's not too bad. 4 shots with the impact and she's installed.

Kevin
 
So, 69-73 disk spindles are the ones to locate, and rotors if possible. The rotors maybe toast, but are a startING point.
Anyone know the casting numbers on the desirable spindles.
 
twostick said:
It's not so much tricky as awkward. Not a lot of room to work over the steering column.
I use a battery impact with a long 3/8 extension with an impact universal joint (ball type) and socket. You can use a ratchet but because there is limited space and the extension is running at quite an angle, you will fight to keep the socket on target. 1 shot with the impact and the nut is off.

Getting the old one off is the easy part. Getting the nuts started on the replacement is the trick but if your hands aren't too big and you hold your face just right it's not too bad. 4 shots with the impact and she's installed.

Kevin
Click to expand...
OMG you make it sound so easy..
 
It's all in the preparation...
I do the same thing.
Because of you, I knew to track down leaf spring shackles before anything else. :thumbsup:
 
commando1 said:
It's all in the preparation...
I do the same thing.
Because of you, I knew to track down leaf spring shackles before anything else. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Oooooh yeah. The leaf spring project, Boy did that turn out well...but that one shackle fought me tooth and nail until I just had to cut it up. I didn't want to but it just wouldn't let go. I threw it out after getting it off. Prob been recycled into and entire Subaru or Toyota by now.
 
twostick said:
It is actually if you have an impact.

I R+R'd the one in our wagon last year. Start to finish, tools put away and hands washed, less than an hour.

Kevin
Click to expand...
It is just so that I don have an impact gun...electric but impact nonetheless.
 
I did the eci brake kit and kept the power drum single booster per ralph @ eci.

so far I haven't ran over any people. yet.
 
With Ralph's kit you can do that because the GM calipers are supposed to have bigger pistons. Bigger pistons = more clamping force for the same input pressure.

Kevin
 
70_NPORT said:
OMG you make it sound so easy..
Click to expand...

A drum to disc conversion is fairly easy to do 70_NPORT so don't think too deep into it. It's really easier than it appears. I just did my drum to disc conversion last June without any prior knowledge of how to do it prior to joining this great forum. I asked a lot of questions like you have then just jumped into it.

Let me ask - you mentioned you sourced a '73 set-up. What parts did you actually get with that setup. Give me a detailed list and I'd be more than happy to advise since I did one not too long ago.

For the record, my car had power drum brakes and a single booster diaphragm with a single master cylinder. Initially my intention was just to switch over to a dual master cylinder and get the booster rebuilt. I got the master and had the booster rebuilt by Booster Dewey. After I got the booster back I had second thoughts and decided I wanted to do the disc conversion. In my search for information whether I needed to upgrade it to a dual diaphragm booster, as many had suggested, I was informed by a creditable source that it was not necessary. I also found out that Ma Mopar did NOT use proportioning valves in their early year C-bodies.

Fast forward - I completed the disc conversion using my single diaphragm booster, but I did install a Mopar adjustable prop valve only because I got a good price on it. The brakes work fantastic and I've tested emergency panic stops in its present configuration and am thoroughly happy with the results. People who have driven the car say the brakes are great and that is it the greatest improvement I could have done. That said, I would say if your current booster works fine there's no need to upgrade it at this time. Installing a prop valve is very simple to do and Wilwood recently put out a good one that IMO is too good to pass up in function and price so I'd advise you to install one just for the additional peace of mind.
 
Wonderwagon said:
So, 69-73 disk spindles are the ones to locate, and rotors if possible. The rotors maybe toast, but are a startING point.
Anyone know the casting numbers on the desirable spindles.
Click to expand...

73 spindles were the preferred simply due to the lower cost of their rotors as compared to the earlier 69-72 spindles whose rotors were almost 3X more expensive.
BUT, the prices for the 69-72 rotors have dropped dramatically and are in the same price range as the 73' rotors now so whichever you come across would be fine. Since the 69-72 spindles are more plentiful just grab a good set if you fine one.
 
SF-66TC said:
A drum to disc conversion is fairly easy to do 70_NPORT so don't think too deep into it. It's really easier than it appears. I just did my drum to disc conversion last June without any prior knowledge of how to do it prior to joining this great forum. I asked a lot of questions like you have then just jumped into it.

Let me ask - you mentioned you sourced a '73 set-up. What parts did you actually get with that setup. Give me a detailed list and I'd be more than happy to advise since I did one not too long ago.

For the record, my car had power drum brakes and a single booster diaphragm with a single master cylinder. Initially my intention was just to switch over to a dual master cylinder and get the booster rebuilt. I got the master and had the booster rebuilt by Booster Dewey. After I got the booster back I had second thoughts and decided I wanted to do the disc conversion. In my search for information whether I needed to upgrade it to a dual diaphragm booster, as many had suggested, I was informed by a creditable source that it was not necessary. I also found out that Ma Mopar did NOT use proportioning valves in their early year C-bodies.

Fast forward - I completed the disc conversion using my single diaphragm booster, but I did install a Mopar adjustable prop valve only because I got a good price on it. The brakes work fantastic and I've tested emergency panic stops in its present configuration and am thoroughly happy with the results. People who have driven the car say the brakes are great and that is it the greatest improvement I could have done. That said, I would say if your current booster works fine there's no need to upgrade it at this time. Installing a prop valve is very simple to do and Wilwood recently put out a good one that IMO is too good to pass up in function and price so I'd advise you to install one just for the additional peace of mind.
Click to expand...

SF-66TC said:
73 spindles were the preferred simply due to the lower cost of their rotors as compared to the earlier 69-72 spindles whose rotors were almost 3X more expensive.
BUT, the prices for the 69-72 rotors have dropped dramatically and are in the same price range as the 73' rotors now so whichever you come across would be fine. Since the 69-72 spindles are more plentiful just grab a good set if you fine one.
Click to expand...
Hey SF-66TC. As it stands right now I have a pair of 1973 style c body spindles with their caliper brackets (on their way actually)...and that's it. I figure I'd start disassembling everything first before buying the rest parts I'll need.
 
70_NPORT said:
Hey SF-66TC. As it stands right now I have a pair of 1973 style c body spindles with their caliper brackets (on their way actually)...and that's it. I figure I'd start disassembling everything first before buying the rest parts I'll need.
Click to expand...
Then make sure you get the 73 rotors and wheel bearings. The calipers and pads are the same.
 
Alrighty...revised parts list...all 73' unless otherwise noted:
Rotors
Inner & outer wheel bearings
69 - 71 dual dia. disc brake booster (maybe?) gonna post a pic shortly.
Calipers
Hydraulic disk brake hoses
Proportioning valve (1?)
Disc brake pads
Cotter pins (assorted)
Rust penetrate (PB Blaster / Pyroil Brake parts cleaner on hand)

Good to go? I wanna make sure I got everything down before starting ;)
 
Grease to pack the bearings
Qt. of brake fluid
Check to see if the calipers you order are bare or packed.

Don't lose the clips that retain the flex hose at the bracket where it connects to the hard line.
Sometimes they are so rusty when you pop them off, they break. Not to worry. AutoZone, HELP! aisle.
 
70_NPORT said:
Alrighty...revised parts list...all 73' unless otherwise noted:
Rotors
Inner & outer wheel bearings
69 - 71 dual dia. disc brake booster (maybe?) gonna post a pic shortly.
Calipers
Hydraulic disk brake hoses
Proportioning valve (1?)
Disc brake pads
Cotter pins (assorted)
Rust penetrate (PB Blaster / Pyroil Brake parts cleaner on hand)

Good to go? I wanna make sure I got everything down before starting ;)
Click to expand...
You forgot inner grease seals and the outer dust caps. Different on 73.
 
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