Just the front is fine.
Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion
- Thread starter 70_NPORT
- Start date
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
twostick
Senior Member
It's not so much tricky as awkward. Not a lot of room to work over the steering column.
I use a battery impact with a long 3/8 extension with an impact universal joint (ball type) and socket. You can use a ratchet but because there is limited space and the extension is running at quite an angle, you will fight to keep the socket on target. 1 shot with the impact and the nut is off.
Getting the old one off is the easy part. Getting the nuts started on the replacement is the trick but if your hands aren't too big and you hold your face just right it's not too bad. 4 shots with the impact and she's installed.
Kevin
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Almost 8 pages and he hasn't even turned a bolt yet... 
Wonderwagon
Well-Known Member
So, 69-73 disk spindles are the ones to locate, and rotors if possible. The rotors maybe toast, but are a startING point.
Anyone know the casting numbers on the desirable spindles.
Anyone know the casting numbers on the desirable spindles.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
OMG you make it sound so easy..
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
HA! I know, I know...its gonna start very soon; the spindles are on their way and I want both sides apart by the time they arrive. Trust me, lol.Almost 8 pages and he hasn't even turned a bolt yet...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
It's all in the preparation...
I do the same thing.
Because of you, I knew to track down leaf spring shackles before anything else.
I do the same thing.
Because of you, I knew to track down leaf spring shackles before anything else.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Oooooh yeah. The leaf spring project, Boy did that turn out well...but that one shackle fought me tooth and nail until I just had to cut it up. I didn't want to but it just wouldn't let go. I threw it out after getting it off. Prob been recycled into and entire Subaru or Toyota by now.It's all in the preparation...
I do the same thing.
Because of you, I knew to track down leaf spring shackles before anything else.
twostick
Senior Member
It is actually if you have an impact.
I R+R'd the one in our wagon last year. Start to finish, tools put away and hands washed, less than an hour.
Kevin
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
It is just so that I don have an impact gun...electric but impact nonetheless.
saylor
Senior Member
I did the eci brake kit and kept the power drum single booster per ralph @ eci.
so far I haven't ran over any people. yet.
so far I haven't ran over any people. yet.
twostick
Senior Member
With Ralph's kit you can do that because the GM calipers are supposed to have bigger pistons. Bigger pistons = more clamping force for the same input pressure.
Kevin
Kevin
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
A drum to disc conversion is fairly easy to do 70_NPORT so don't think too deep into it. It's really easier than it appears. I just did my drum to disc conversion last June without any prior knowledge of how to do it prior to joining this great forum. I asked a lot of questions like you have then just jumped into it.
Let me ask - you mentioned you sourced a '73 set-up. What parts did you actually get with that setup. Give me a detailed list and I'd be more than happy to advise since I did one not too long ago.
For the record, my car had power drum brakes and a single booster diaphragm with a single master cylinder. Initially my intention was just to switch over to a dual master cylinder and get the booster rebuilt. I got the master and had the booster rebuilt by Booster Dewey. After I got the booster back I had second thoughts and decided I wanted to do the disc conversion. In my search for information whether I needed to upgrade it to a dual diaphragm booster, as many had suggested, I was informed by a creditable source that it was not necessary. I also found out that Ma Mopar did NOT use proportioning valves in their early year C-bodies.
Fast forward - I completed the disc conversion using my single diaphragm booster, but I did install a Mopar adjustable prop valve only because I got a good price on it. The brakes work fantastic and I've tested emergency panic stops in its present configuration and am thoroughly happy with the results. People who have driven the car say the brakes are great and that is it the greatest improvement I could have done. That said, I would say if your current booster works fine there's no need to upgrade it at this time. Installing a prop valve is very simple to do and Wilwood recently put out a good one that IMO is too good to pass up in function and price so I'd advise you to install one just for the additional peace of mind.
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
73 spindles were the preferred simply due to the lower cost of their rotors as compared to the earlier 69-72 spindles whose rotors were almost 3X more expensive.
BUT, the prices for the 69-72 rotors have dropped dramatically and are in the same price range as the 73' rotors now so whichever you come across would be fine. Since the 69-72 spindles are more plentiful just grab a good set if you fine one.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Hey SF-66TC. As it stands right now I have a pair of 1973 style c body spindles with their caliper brackets (on their way actually)...and that's it. I figure I'd start disassembling everything first before buying the rest parts I'll need.
traintech55
Senior Member
Then make sure you get the 73 rotors and wheel bearings. The calipers and pads are the same.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Alrighty...revised parts list...all 73' unless otherwise noted:
Rotors
Inner & outer wheel bearings
69 - 71 dual dia. disc brake booster (maybe?) gonna post a pic shortly.
Calipers
Hydraulic disk brake hoses
Proportioning valve (1?)
Disc brake pads
Cotter pins (assorted)
Rust penetrate (PB Blaster / Pyroil Brake parts cleaner on hand)
Good to go? I wanna make sure I got everything down before starting ;)
Rotors
Inner & outer wheel bearings
69 - 71 dual dia. disc brake booster (maybe?) gonna post a pic shortly.
Calipers
Hydraulic disk brake hoses
Proportioning valve (1?)
Disc brake pads
Cotter pins (assorted)
Rust penetrate (PB Blaster / Pyroil Brake parts cleaner on hand)
Good to go? I wanna make sure I got everything down before starting ;)
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Grease to pack the bearings
Qt. of brake fluid
Check to see if the calipers you order are bare or packed.
Don't lose the clips that retain the flex hose at the bracket where it connects to the hard line.
Sometimes they are so rusty when you pop them off, they break. Not to worry. AutoZone, HELP! aisle.
Qt. of brake fluid
Check to see if the calipers you order are bare or packed.
Don't lose the clips that retain the flex hose at the bracket where it connects to the hard line.
Sometimes they are so rusty when you pop them off, they break. Not to worry. AutoZone, HELP! aisle.
traintech55
Senior Member
You forgot inner grease seals and the outer dust caps. Different on 73.
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