Help with alternator troubles

[Gerald Morris]

The best reason I ever heard was that the electronics didn't need as much insulation from the case, thus being cheaper to build.

There's probably more reasons....

But a lot of folks don't know that the alternator really puts out 3 phase AC that is changed to DC.

Few folks really know what single phase, let alone 3 phase AC is, or why its more efficient to use a 3 phase alternator than a generator to produce even (rectified pulse) DC. Yes, switching grounds saves some pennies on insulation, and in the era of discrete switches, was worthwhile, just. It still has risks, not the least being hot circuits at the load. Still, all the Big 3 1/2 auto companies in the U.S. used ground switching until the 1990s. I suspect all the FET chip controlled stuff in cars now doesn't play well with that paradigm though. I might be WRONG. I know little about post 1986 automobiles because I loathe them and won't have one, so I admit total ignorance here.

 

[TWS67'Fury]

So I did all of the above and it charged and ran great for a little while then nothing. I've replaced alternator , regulator and batter and still no charge does this mean that a connection broke in my wiring I've gone through and checked and I can't find one.
Could it be the ampmeter? I've known them to be bothersome. Again I've got a dual feild alternator out of a 85 ram charger 5.2/318 and the updated 70's and up vr and it did work until one day it didn't the ampmeter moves slightly and I've checked battery voltage at idle under load and it is not charging it was but now it's not what am I doing wrong.

 

[Gerald Morris]

So I did all of the above and it charged and ran great for a little while then nothing. I've replaced alternator , regulator and batter and still no charge does this mean that a connection broke in my wiring I've gone through and checked and I can't find one.
Could it be the ampmeter? I've known them to be bothersome. Again I've got a dual feild alternator out of a 85 ram charger 5.2/318 and the updated 70's and up vr and it did work until one day it didn't the ampmeter moves slightly and I've checked battery voltage at idle under load and it is not charging it was but now it's not what am I doing wrong.

GOOD HEAVENS! YOU STILL RUN THAT CAR THROUGH THAT 50+ YR OLD AMMETER??!! GET RID OF THAT FIRE HAZARD AT ONCE MAN!! Seriously! Disconnect it, and bundle the red and black wires to it together, and feed THAT JUNCTION from the fused link conductor on the other side of your firewall. You can also reroute the charging lead from the alternator directly to the positive terminal on your battery, with a fusible link to protect it.

Should I instruct you on the Morris Ammeter Bypass, or would you sleep better with a more conservative approach like the MAD bypass?

GET THAT DAMNED HEATER OUT OF YOUR CIRCUITRY TODAY! That's ALL that ammeter will do for you. Get a VOLT meter in place of it.

 

[TWS67'Fury]

GOOD HEAVENS! YOU STILL RUN THAT CAR THROUGH THAT 50+ YR OLD AMMETER??!! GET RID OF THAT FIRE HAZARD AT ONCE MAN!! Seriously! Disconnect it, and bundle the red and black wires to it together, and feed THAT JUNCTION from the fused link conductor on the other side of your firewall. You can also reroute the charging lead from the alternator directly to the positive terminal on your battery, with a fusible link to protect it.

Should I instruct you on the Morris Ammeter Bypass, or would you sleep better with a more conservative approach like the MAD bypass?

GET THAT DAMNED HEATER OUT OF YOUR CIRCUITRY TODAY! That's ALL that ammeter will do for you. Get a VOLT meter in place of it.

What's the mad bypass i would like to at least get some sleep knowing that I'm charging. Still tho is the ampmeter the issue with the charging. Also by running a feed wire from positive to alternator I'm assuming you mean the alternator stud to positive battery terminal should I keep existing wire in or take it out.

 

[Gerald Morris]

What's the mad bypass i would like to at least get some sleep knowing that I'm charging. Still tho is the ampmeter the issue with the charging. Also by running a feed wire from positive to alternator I'm assuming you mean the alternator stud to positive battery terminal should I keep existing wire in or take it out.

You should disconnect the alternator lead from the alternator AFTER running a heavier gauge wire from the charging stud on the alternator to the battery. For now, just connect the alt lead directly to the bat lead, bypassing the ammeter. If you like, you can even choose one of the 2 studs on the ammeter, and just hook both leads to that, so long as the other stud is totally isolated. Cover IT with tape, a wire nut, some liquid plastic dip or something if it's near anything metal. With both leads together on one stud, you will have made your junction, for now.

Later, you should splice both of those to a new, thicker lead from your starter relay main battery terminal. This now supplies ALL the current to everything under your dash, while your alternator will go directly to the battery and NOWHERE ELSE. That's the "Morris Bypass."

The MAD Bypass can be found here: Catalog Most C Body Moparians stick with it, but I prefer running things as I described.

Either way will improve your charging vastly.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Here's a very close approximation to the Morris bypass:

I run my alternator straight to the battery w a fusible link between the alternator charging lead and the battery. Aside from that, this diagram captures what I do well enough.

 

[TWS67'Fury]

Here's a very close approximation to the Morris bypass:

View attachment 598142

I run my alternator straight to the battery w a fusible link between the alternator charging lead and the battery. Aside from that, this diagram captures what I do well enough.

Watch the video i have linked below to make sure I'm understanding you or so I can expedite this process give me a call or text at 719-494-9873 I would rather have at conversation then typing in forums. Also please ignore the shitty wiring. New video by Total Wreckage Live