This is a great thread. You are doing all the leg work for those of us who would really like to do this with the right donor. Glad you got your issue resolved.
Hemi Fury
- Thread starter superfragl
- Start date
fury fan
Senior Member
I'm not an expert, and don't check my cars, but 190 seems hot for the PS system in normal driving. If autocrossing, maybe to be expected?
In hydraulic systems if you can hear fluid moving through valves it is due to the volume going through a restriction in the system. Which adds heat. How did the Borgeson guy quantify for you how much hissing is normal?
In hydraulic systems if you can hear fluid moving through valves it is due to the volume going through a restriction in the system. Which adds heat. How did the Borgeson guy quantify for you how much hissing is normal?
superfragl
Active Member
I have read somewhere that anything below 250 is acceptable. Just imagine - the pump is attached to the head. Normal engine operating temperature is 205 for Hemi. It is expected that the pump will be close to that.
Now the steering box is located near exhaust manifold and even though I do have head shield on it, some heat will get absorbed by the box.
I have no idea how much hissing is normal... It seems that steering shaft and wheel work as amplifier. If I put my hands on the wheel - the noise stops/muffles. The pump pressure and flow rating meet steering box requirements and the steering box operates as it should.
Now the steering box is located near exhaust manifold and even though I do have head shield on it, some heat will get absorbed by the box.
I have no idea how much hissing is normal... It seems that steering shaft and wheel work as amplifier. If I put my hands on the wheel - the noise stops/muffles. The pump pressure and flow rating meet steering box requirements and the steering box operates as it should.
Mr C
Senior Member
Wonderful job, but I'm curious about the wiring. In my opinion, if I'm going to go modern hemi, then I want EFI etc...if I was to swap the hemi to carb I might as well get an older used engine for way cheaper. Just my opinion.
If you could post detailed instructions (step by step- like wiring for dummies) about how you made the factory EFI happen, I'd appreciate it. It's the only thing scaring me away from modern Hemi swaps. Was it a harness you bought? If not, where did you tie in the OEM harness into the factory harness and how? I can do the welding and all the other fabrication, but wiring is the devil! LOL
Inquiring minds want to know!
If you could post detailed instructions (step by step- like wiring for dummies) about how you made the factory EFI happen, I'd appreciate it. It's the only thing scaring me away from modern Hemi swaps. Was it a harness you bought? If not, where did you tie in the OEM harness into the factory harness and how? I can do the welding and all the other fabrication, but wiring is the devil! LOL
Inquiring minds want to know!
superfragl
Active Member
That is a good question! Wiring took me a week to get done (working 1-2 hrs at night).
I got the factory wiring from the donor, removed all plastic sleeves and followed service manual wiring diagrams. This is too much to describe here, but the idea is to print the PCM pin-outs and follow each wire to confirm that it goes to the right sensor/coil/injector, etc. Some of the wires will go away (not needed) and I can provide the list if need be.
After the wires are traced you will have to either send PCM the be tuned - certain options have to be turned off or changed (like security, transmission, body control module) or buy a tuner and do it yourself. I bought HP Tuners device for $200 (used) and have no regrets - I can manage engine and the way it operates and I can monitor the engine and every parameter. For example, I can see that O2 sensors readings are within proper range and long term and short term fuel trims are +/- 3%, which means the air/fuel ratio is almost perfect. I don`t even have to pull the plugs to see how the engine is running. I can tweak the idle RPM - it is very cool when you shift from park to drive and the RPM does not change at all - the PCM can account for load and auto adjust.
As far as factory old wiring - not much needs to be done to it - just provide ignition signal to new Hemi wiring and that is about it. Car wiring and Hemi wiring are two separate systems connected together with ignition wire.
I also installed extra oil pressure and coolant temp. sensors on Hemi (took them from my old 440) - that was done only to see proper reading on the dash, but it is not necessary.
I got the factory wiring from the donor, removed all plastic sleeves and followed service manual wiring diagrams. This is too much to describe here, but the idea is to print the PCM pin-outs and follow each wire to confirm that it goes to the right sensor/coil/injector, etc. Some of the wires will go away (not needed) and I can provide the list if need be.
After the wires are traced you will have to either send PCM the be tuned - certain options have to be turned off or changed (like security, transmission, body control module) or buy a tuner and do it yourself. I bought HP Tuners device for $200 (used) and have no regrets - I can manage engine and the way it operates and I can monitor the engine and every parameter. For example, I can see that O2 sensors readings are within proper range and long term and short term fuel trims are +/- 3%, which means the air/fuel ratio is almost perfect. I don`t even have to pull the plugs to see how the engine is running. I can tweak the idle RPM - it is very cool when you shift from park to drive and the RPM does not change at all - the PCM can account for load and auto adjust.
As far as factory old wiring - not much needs to be done to it - just provide ignition signal to new Hemi wiring and that is about it. Car wiring and Hemi wiring are two separate systems connected together with ignition wire.
I also installed extra oil pressure and coolant temp. sensors on Hemi (took them from my old 440) - that was done only to see proper reading on the dash, but it is not necessary.
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Picture of the dash? What kind of options did you have?
superfragl
Active Member
What options do you mean?
I guess I was thinking you had some modern gauges. I have an idiot light for my engine temperature in my '66. Love that it is all stock in appearance from behind the wheel.
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fury fan
Senior Member
A 65-66 Chrysler has idiot lights for *everything* except gas and ammeter!
I think that was a start of 'dumbing things down' by Chrysler to meet a perceived clientele that didn't care about mechanical stuff.
I think that was a start of 'dumbing things down' by Chrysler to meet a perceived clientele that didn't care about mechanical stuff.
has2bmopar
Senior Member
I see what I have to assume is a voltmeter in the dash and power window switches moved to the console like a 300 F, G etc.
superfragl
Active Member
That is absolutely true!
I installed the voltmeter before the Hemi swap - I had 120 amp Honda alternator (fits fine with stock brackets by the way) and took voltmeter internals and put in place of amp gauge. Now I have a 150 amp hemi unit.
For power windows I came up with my own conversion (it used to be manual) and the console seemed like a good place to put switches on.
There is one more mod - Sony head unit built into factory radio. All buttons work but have different functions now. Aux in and USB plugs are in the glove box.
The glove box is made out of aluminum and vinyl lined.
I installed the voltmeter before the Hemi swap - I had 120 amp Honda alternator (fits fine with stock brackets by the way) and took voltmeter internals and put in place of amp gauge. Now I have a 150 amp hemi unit.
For power windows I came up with my own conversion (it used to be manual) and the console seemed like a good place to put switches on.
There is one more mod - Sony head unit built into factory radio. All buttons work but have different functions now. Aux in and USB plugs are in the glove box.
The glove box is made out of aluminum and vinyl lined.
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