hidden headlight gears....info

[CanCritter]

welp finally got headlights working properly...turns out both hidden headlight relays l had were toast....
Picked up a 5 pin bosh style relay and hooked it up as per diagram below and found out l hada swap the two leads to motor over to get it to open properly as doors would open on OFF position and close on on position...anyway was just a matter of switching 2 wires thank god

anyway blue and yellow wire go to 87A
black with red tracer to 87

k....have low and high beams..doors close and open properly...just used one relay and added the 30 amp breaker from original setup....any reason l shouldn't just leave it and call it a daY if it works??? these diagrams with 2 relays are screwing with my brain...relay for high and a relay for low beam????
personaly am of the mind if it works with one relay just fine don't screw with it...anyway am happy hidden headlights are finally workin..

 

[Dobalovr]

welp finally got headlights working properly...turns out both hidden headlight relays l had were toast....
Picked up a 5 pin bosh style relay and hooked it up as per diagram below and found out l hada swap the two leads to motor over to get it to open properly as doors would open on OFF position and close on on position...anyway was just a matter of switching 2 wires thank god
View attachment 350357
anyway blue and yellow wire go to 87A
black with red tracer to 87

k....have low and high beams..doors close and open properly...just used one relay and added the 30 amp breaker from original setup....any reason l shouldn't just leave it and call it a daY if it works??? these diagrams with 2 relays are screwing with my brain...relay for high and a relay for low beam????
personaly am of the mind if it works with one relay just fine don't screw with it...anyway am happy hidden headlights are finally workin..

Glad you got it figured because you will no doubt be called on to convert mine to a bosch setup in the very near future....

 

[CanCritter]

Glad you got it figured because you will no doubt be called on to convert mine to a bosch setup in the very near future....

after two weeks fighting with it all have become quite well associated with all parts of it...practice makes perfect

 

[ArnieJr]

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Thanks, I will definitely safe that post. I replaced the Sylvania halogens with the Phillips (I LOVE Phillips products!) filament fixtures, but still nothing. The lights will open, but the motor keeps spinning, then stops when I turn them off; I had hoped it would have at least reversed course. There's something in the motor that's not telling it to stop. I think I may have to pull it out and open it up and see if I broke something in it. I forced one of the doors wile replacing the headlight and may have messed up something. Those pictures will be a HUGE help!

 

[Welder guy]

If there is one bit of advice I can give to anyone that has hidden headlights it’s :NEVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES FORCE THE DOORS IN ANY DIRECTION!!!!! All this will do is elevate you to a whole new level of bigger and harder to repair problems, these motors are durable but they are not indestructible.

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks, I will definitely safe that post. I replaced the Sylvania halogens with the Phillips (I LOVE Phillips products!) filament fixtures, but still nothing. The lights will open, but the motor keeps spinning, then stops when I turn them off; I had hoped it would have at least reversed course. There's something in the motor that's not telling it to stop. I think I may have to pull it out and open it up and see if I broke something in it. I forced one of the doors wile replacing the headlight and may have messed up something. Those pictures will be a HUGE help!

Usually what you describe is caused by some broken gear teeth on the nylon gear inside the motor assembly. As the door opens most of the way, the drive pinion starts to skip because the last few teeth on the nylon gear have stripped or broken off and the gear can not move far enough disengage the limit switch. There are index lines on the gear hub (Gear hub is the rectangular hole in the gear that the shaft for the headlight doors goes thru) and the gear case, be sure to line these up before removing the black plastic cover for the gear or damage to the limit switches will occur. (See post #27 for a photo) Not a good idea to take the motor barrel loose unless you are very good with motors. The brush holder for the motor is easily broken and it is not a reproduction item.

Dave

 

[Welder guy]

The first 2 pictures in post 36 shows the index marks Davea Lux is talking about, the rest of the pictures are what the gear looks like when the gear housing is taken apart in that position. Only take the head apart when the index marks are in that position.

 

[Welder guy]

Here are some pictures of a second motor I had , it had a different style of gear. The gear was good and points were not broken, that part of the motor worked fine . This motors problem was it would not turn because of rust on the shaft in the bottom bushing of the motor , a common issue with these motors .

 

[CanCritter]

Here are some pictures of a second motor I had , it had a different style of gear. The gear was good and points were not broken that part of the motor worked fine . This motors problem was it would not turn because of rust on the shaft in the bottom bushing of the motor , a common issue with these motors . View attachment 353709 View attachment 353710 View attachment 353711 View attachment 353712 View attachment 353713 View attachment 353714 View attachment 353715 View attachment 353716

like that motor better...contacts seem simpler to deal with..different head though with no stop and different gearing and cam.....wonder if that's a newer design?

 

[Welder guy]

This design is a lot easier to work on! I’m not sure of the design date . Here are some pictures of the only numbers I could find on it along with a couple mounting brackets that were in a box of parts both of the motors came here in. The smaller bracket is what was on this motor when I got it.

 

[ceebuddy]

Were there any models from Chrysler Corporation with hidden headlights after the 1978 New Yorker? What about the Dodge Magnum with its translucent covers?

 

[Dobalovr]

Were there any models from Chrysler Corporation with hidden headlights after the 1978 New Yorker? What about the Dodge Magnum with its translucent covers?

1981-83 Imperial for one

 

[300rag]

Were there any models from Chrysler Corporation with hidden headlights after the 1978 New Yorker? What about the Dodge Magnum with its translucent covers?

1981-83 Imperial for one

'88-93 New Yorker

 

[1970cat]

87-92 lebaron

 

[twostick]

79-81 R Body New Yorker.

Kevin

 

[D Ray's Alien]

Hey gang, Does anyone know who rebuilds these motors? I thought I saw that someone did but can't find the thread. Thanks,

 

[Dobalovr]

Hey gang, Does anyone know who rebuilds these motors? I thought I saw that someone did but can't find the thread. Thanks,

Topher Mcginnis is your man

topher@headlightmotorman.com

 

[Stoffauge]

I´d like to reactivate this "old but super gold" thread and add an issue I have with my headlight motor. It is kind of mentioned above but not 100% same.

All lights work.

My motor opens the doors (with a tiny bit of help because of broken teeth) and closes (without help). BUT: It keeps spinning after it CLOSED the doors. Is it just because of the broken teeth and I have to buy new cam and gear from ebay and thats it? Or are the stop limits broken somehow (how to replace if?) Because all in all it sounds like a mechanically issue.

 

[Welder guy]

It’s hard to know exactly what is causing your issues with out knowing what style of gear you have. You need to remove the motor and carefully take it apart and take a lot of good close up pictures of all the parts. Then it should be no problem fixing the issue. Just guessing I would say The cam is not hitting the points that break The electrical circuit and stop the motor from turning off

 

[Stoffauge]

Took it apart many times to clean the bearing and make it run again etc. I do have a red cam with a "half rounded" gear. The teeth on the far let side are missing so it could be the issue. Bec. of these teeth missing the "metal-snail-thread-driver-thing that runs the gear) can´t drive the gear on the far end on the stop limits to make the cam cut the contacts. May I be right?