How about a derby build thread??

The following cars will also be used at this event.
These were all cars that I saved from the crusher
They are all non restorable,rusty,sun baked interiors,broken windows,incomplete,non running.
ALL usable parts or pieces will be removed or replaced. Anybody here sees a needed part or car they want to save? LMK
A rusty 56 packard clipper

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I sold this super rusty 59 Buick coupe parts car.
Had no floorboards or trunk floor.
All the sheet metal is bad.
Has some good windows,trim,and the 401 M/T has been salvaged.
What’s left would make a great Rocko Malachi clone!! Along with the 56 Chevy to make a count Malachi clone. I can recreate the Malachi crunch!!

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LocuMob said:
You don't understand Wisconsin winters, he'd need the building. I let my parts cars sit outside, and it does them no good.

I'm not one for destruction of a good car, but my clapped out piles of rust can be derbyed by someone if they want to, I'll get more money than I'd get at any yard, and the car will still end up there anyways. I have yet to sell one to a derby guy, they've just gone straight to the junkyard when I've picked them clean. I also have a car and a half in parts that I trip over every time I go to one of my storage units. I've listed the parts and no one has bought more than a few small items. Should I keep those parts forever in the hopes they eventually get sold, while letting whomever cleans up my mess when I'm dead, deal with it? I don't have the desirable fuselage parts, so they just sit and collect dust. At some point, you've got to do something with it, when is it finally okay to just get rid of it? I'd give it away for pennies if anyone was interested, it's not about the money, that's for sure.
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What cars ya got laying around for sale? Lol
 
Come on, folks! I'm no derby fan, either, but don't jam on a guy who is WILLING to part out whatever you are looking for for your C-bodies (and D-bodies)! At least he is willing to part them, versus some who simply haul the parts off to the scrap guy and brag on it, just to piss us off.
 
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Here is a glimpse at how we make our cages, the bars running back to the package tray area is called a "gas tank protector" in the middle of those bars is where we run our fuel cell which mine is a 10gallon stainless steel tank bolted to the floor, yes the tank protector helps protect the tank from being hit, but really we designed this portion of the cage to help the car from bellying out under the rear doors as the car bends and prevents the car from dragging in the dirt and lifting your rear wheels off the ground.

The rest is a simple 4 point cage to prevent the sides from coming in, in each corner there is down bars that are welded directly to the rear frame rails in 2 places and the front 2 are directly welded to sub frame at the body mounts.

The bar going over the roof we call a "halo bar" to help you obviously in a roll over and that is welded into the door bars i described above. The one running to trunk lid is about holding the rear of the car down a little longer as it bends upwards. It really is amazing how much geometry and physics you use while building a car. Cage tubing is made up of 3x3"x 1/4" wall tubing and window bars are generally 2x2" yes they have bent and do bend depending on class. These cars I'll be showing you will all be "stock" class cars I no longer build full weld cars as it is already expensive but that class takes about 30k of investment to run in a competitive builders class. All doors and trunks are welded 5"on and 5"off. I can post a set of rules that we have to follow as well if anyone is interested. this is just the beginning I will do my best to take you along start to finish on a build.

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Owen11x said:
Any one interested in watching a derby build thread as I go?? Grabbed this one today for a show in a couple months

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I lost interest in derbies and monster trucks when I watched parts for my car being crushed. Parts that are getting harder to find. Unlike a mustangs where you can get anything you need from a magazine. My vote is no.
 
mikedrini said:
Not being a dick, just my honest opinion, but count me out. Watching the destruction of these in one form or another is like pullin teeth. I know she's yours and it's your right as the owner, but why couldn't it be a Lincoln Continental?
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i agree i use to hang with a derby crew i have seen hundreds of c bodyes distroyed for a few hundred bucks restore the imperial . if u want a car to derby get a full size 75-78 gm car they r the toughest car for a demo derby . if it is built right it wll drive through anything on the track but u need to run in a team . a lone wolf dose not stand a chance of winning the feature
 
marty koirtyohann said:
i agree i use to hang with a derby crew i have seen hundreds of c bodyes distroyed for a few hundred bucks restore the imperial . if u want a car to derby get a full size 75-78 gm car they r the toughest car for a demo derby . if it is built right it wll drive through anything on the track but u need to run in a team . a lone wolf dose not stand a chance of winning the feature
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All of that is wildly inaccurate for today's standards.. I run alone all the time in different states and win quite often at least top 3 if not a win. I do run locally with my 2 cousins as a team.74-76 impala and caprice are good but fse from the best, 77+ gm are junk. crown vics are hands down the cars to beat aside from imperials or 74-78 shockers. 71-76 cadillacs are very tough but require alot of extra welding much like a suicide Lincoln. Stock class limited welding the new Yorkers, newports and Monaco's and furys are dominant as well as the 71-76 chevys. Like I said between my father and myself alone we have 50+ years straight of running cars 12 years just myself. It's a blast
 
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