How's Everyone On Newer Cars?

or all of the above.....:eek:s_dancing2:

Seriously, check your O2 sensors. they get coated after a while and stop sniffing the exhaust properly and tend to drop fuel economy...
 
I know we are really really good at solving problems on our old iron so here's a chance to prove ourselves on the newer stuff. I have an 05 Magnum R/T with the 5.7 Hemi. It runs and drives good but my fuel mileage has been steadily dropping over the 6000 miles I've put on it. In my regular driving it was getting close to 18mpg's but has fallen to just over 15. The only thing I've tried so far is changing the plugs. No improvement there. Like I said it seems to run good with no miss or check engine light. My next idea is to change the plug wires but don't want to just start grasping at straws. The car has 112000 miles on it. I'm also wondering if it could be a plugged cat? Whaadda youse guys think?

Can you hear/feel the MDS coming on? BY chance did you use heavier than 5w20 in the last oil change? I found when I had issues with the MDS the mileage dropped off noticeably.


When my O2 and cats had to be replaced, there was no mistaking it. She would surge at idle, enough to make you stand on the brakes else she was trying to move. Fuel mileage didn't suffer too bad but lights all over the place and the key dance had all kinds of p codes.
 
I see that you were changing the air filter back to stock type. One thing I would suggest is cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body.Sometimes the oil used with the reusable filters coats the wires in the MAF. Use a MAF sensor cleaner not a throttle body cleaner when cleaning the MAF. Just a thought. Make sure you have no codes.
 
I see that you were changing the air filter back to stock type. One thing I would suggest is cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body.Sometimes the oil used with the reusable filters coats the wires in the MAF. Use a MAF sensor cleaner not a throttle body cleaner when cleaning the MAF. Just a thought. Make sure you have no codes.

I had exactly the same thought. Its easy to clean the MAF. Just spray it at / on those tiny thin wires, but make sure you don't touch the wires. BTW, a clean stock air filter setup flows as well as that snake oil quacky K&N.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Everything seems to check out good so I think I will clean the MAF sensor/throttle body change the air filter and try a different brand of gas, maybe Chevron and see what happens. Possibly my poor mileage is normal so I guess I should ask if anyone has a 05-08 Magnum or Charger with the 5.7 hemi and what they are getting?
 
Another thought. O2 sensors do degrade over time. If you can get your hands on a scan tool not just a code reader and watch you short and long term fuel trim you may see something.You may have to replace your upstream sensors. And also cleaning your injectors or trying ATF in a tank of fuel. You can use Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF is cheaper. 6oz in about 15 gals.
 
Seafoam is a good idea too. I dump a bottle of it in my tank a couple of times a year.

It seems to be the modern equivalent of MMO. :)

If your modern Mopar is acting a little flakey at idle or slow on the accelerator or rough idle and you don't have an obvious mechanical problem (like weak fuel pressure, a vacuum leak, etc.) the suggestion I often hear on other forums is like this:

- Feed a can of Seafoam into a vacuum line (power brake booster connection or intake plenum) and "burn the carbon out".

The usual plan is to clean the throttle body first, as has been recommended in this thread.

Then feed the Seafoam into the intake manifold (you pour some into the vacuum line, until the engine almost dies, but not quite, then back off...repeat until the bottle is empty).

Let it set engine off for 10 minutes, then start it up and run it at high idle until all the smoke stops coming out. The more smoke you see coming out, the more you needed to do it!

Almost immediately, you should do a FULL oil and filter change, to get rid of the TB cleaner and excess Seafoam.

Supposedly this little procedure will burns off the excess carbon from the valves or something, and some folks say it can "clean out" a clogged cat too.

Don't know if it really works like, that, but some people swear by it. And it costs less than $10 for the Seafoam, plus the oil and filter, which is regular maintenance anyway.

The folks on the Chrysler 300M forum claim I should do it every 50k miles. Haven't done it myself, but my car is running pretty smoothly right now.

Anyway, regardless, Seafoam does seem free up stuck injectors for a lot of folks, so I dump it in the tank just as "preventive maintenance" twice a year.

Oh, I usually buy cheap gas too. So, if I bought premium with additives, might not even the Seafoam. But to me, it's "cheap insurance" for the fuel injectors I think.
 
No
Thanks for all the suggestions. Everything seems to check out good so I think I will clean the MAF sensor/throttle body change the air filter and try a different brand of gas, maybe Chevron and see what happens. Possibly my poor mileage is normal so I guess I should ask if anyone has a 05-08 Magnum or Charger with the 5.7 hemi and what they are getting?

My 05 mag rt got about 19/20 in town 25 on the cruises from CT to MD.
 
The OBD II diagnostic systems are really very sensitive, because they are calibrated to increases in emissions that would cause a car to fail the standards by only a small amount. California started On Board Diagnostic requirements and they still are the ones that update the regulations on a regular basis - not EPA; the expertise on those systems resides in CA, not so much at the Federal level. Therefore, they will pick up faults in oxygen sensors and catalysts long before they become issues with fuel consumption. But with some components, such as MAP or MAF sensors, finding one that is not working correctly within the normal operating range has been more of a problem. It takes multiple types of driving conditions outside the normal operating range to flag a problem with one of those sensors and that may take some time for most cars, especially in the early years of OBD II. There are now more capable diagnostic algorithms for those sensors on the newer cars. Also, the additives in today's fuel are regulated such that additional additives should not be necessary to keep the fuel systems operating cleanly.
 
I watched a documentary last night on how all the giants involved in the petroleum industry downright illegally hid the incredible amount of damage that lead did.
Anyone over 60 is lucky to be alive.
 
Not to contradict anything anyone has said here, but sensors on cars that are 10-15 years old (which I think is what this thread was about) are not to be trusted to be as accurate as what you will find on a newer car.

They may have worked great when they were new, but those things age and things change. The wiring harness connecting them to the ECU ages, too. Sensors go wacky, voltages waver, etc. etc.

Even the ECU itself can go bad. I've had one go out on my wife's old 2001 Dodge Stratus and the ABS ECU on my son's 2001 Chevy Tahoe went bad.

So, yes, I love OBD II and CAN and all that good stuff. It can be very helpful in diagnosing a problem. It can also give you false positives and false negatives and error codes that don't make any sense. And it can send you on a wild goose chase, where you start replacing EVERYTHING, when only one little thing or two (or maybe not anything) is the real problem.


So, it usually still takes somebody who has a lot of experience with a given vehicle over time to let you know what the various codes are likely to really mean, what ones you should pay attention to, and what are ones are spurious and should be ignored (cleared out of the system).

Even OBD II and CAN (and whatever else is out there now) eventually gets old and flakey like everything else on a car.

Thermal cycling, vibration, humidity, cheap parts to start with (unfortunately), and the continual push to have the Chinese make it even cheaper.......it all takes its toll.

I am not a fan of lead, for the most part, but now that the "enviro" folks are pushing to get lead out of electronics (RoHS), just wait. Electronic reliability, overall, is about ready to really get worse.

Have already heard from people who work close with Detroit who say warranty re-work on various sensors and electronics in general is spiking big time. And they point to RoHS has one reason. There are other causes as well, but it's mainly just "going cheaper" that's causing it, and changing the way electronics have been built for what..a century now? That isn't helping either.


YMMV ! :)
 
I agree with the people who said: Fuel Injection System Cleaning. I paid $100 per car to have it done professionally. It made a great difference. At 112K miles. Your Magnum in due, IMHO.
After that, I would see how it runs. If still problems, I'd move to the upstream O2 sensors as my next suspects.
Best of Luck, Ben
 
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