NOT MINE Hurst project in Mi
- Thread starter 66l78rat
- Start date
SportFury70
Senior Member
Hes dreamin at that price, best of luck to em
I would very much like yal's opinions on this car.
What it will take to get it back to where it should be.
What do you see that is wrong?
What is going to be the most difficult items to acquire for this car?
What it will take to get it back to where it should be.
What do you see that is wrong?
What is going to be the most difficult items to acquire for this car?
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When I spoke to the Seller and encouraged him to add lots and lots of pics, including the BS and front and rear window channels and other rust spots, he told me "it's a complete car, all there." I think we touched on the interior and other parts that are not seen in any pics and I believe that is what he meant. Obviously, a buyer would want to go see everything firsthand, I'm just telling you what the Seller told me.
Assuming the Imperial interior is there (as told to me), IMO only the hood and decklid (which appear okay) are special to the Hurst. Everything else really is "just a 1970 300" for better or worse.
The AC is Airtemp II (H53), which we know is very difficult to repair (if it's not working) due to unobtainable parts. However, I figure an experienced Mopar guy could convert to regular AC. Would @Davea Lux or @david hill care to comment?
As @Trace 300 Hurst stated replacement parts for the H53 Airtemp II are very hard to obtain. First you will need manual A/C dash controls assembly to start your conversion to manual A/C. The electrical / vacuum switch will be more than likely need replacement. There are compatible switches available on line. A good switch is a must for the conversion. Us the manual A/C vac harness schematic will convert you to manual A/C controls blend door operation. Plumbing the temp blend door pretty straightforward. Manual A/C heater boxes are hard to find but make for a seamless hard to detect conversion complete. Remember these heater boxes can be found in Fury's, Polara's, Monaco's, Newport's, New Yorker's & 300's. So with a little effort, it is very doable.
I figured that Professor Hill would have the answers! 
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
Arizona car my a#$. Not judging by the stub frame. Maybe he drove it through the Grand Canyon on his way back to Michigan.
The easiest way to convert to manual air would be to find a c-body parts car and strip out all of the manual air parts. Manual air is pretty reliable, the main items under dash that will wear out are the vacuum motors and the vacuum switch in the push button control. I don't recommend that any RV-2 compressor be run on R-134a as they have a very high failure rate with R-134a. The modern R-12 replacements, such as R-12a will function reasonably well with a minimal fire risk. These replacement gasses are a blend of mostly propane and butane with a flame inhibitor added. You will also need to install a new filter dryer as part of the system upgrade. It would also be a good idea to replace all of the system o-rings to insure a good seal. Also would want to have the evaporator and condenser flushed to remove any accumulated sludge, this is especially important if the system has been open to the atmosphere for any amount of time as moisture and mineral oil combine to form a snot like substance that will cause issues when the system is recharged.
Dave
Dave
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