I got a really bad surprise today

[polara71]

Weres those burnouts? Thursday has passed

 

[70NPORT]

Do you have her running yet?

No, not yet. I'm going to "upgrade" a few things and the parts I've ordered are just starting to arrive. I'm hoping to have her back up a running over the weekend, as long as the weather doesn't get shitty.

 

[70NPORT]

Weres those burnouts? Thursday has passed

Sorry, still waiting for time to get my hands dirty.

 

[polara71]

:edgy:...................:waiting: .........................................:eusa_whistle:

 

[70NPORT]

:edgy:...................:waiting: .........................................:eusa_whistle:

Patience young skywalker

 

[polara71]

I'm coming down tomorrow, we can do burnouts together

 

[70NPORT]

Ok gentlemen here's an update (should anyone still be following this long already):

She's back together again. I made up a new fusible link using the same basic material the OEM link was made up of only newer (Ill post pics of that later). Here's the deal however, she'll spin but will not kick over to running. In other words it's like trying to start your car with no gas....rrrrrrrrrr, you got me? Also, and this is really weird, the "engine hot" light will not go out..at all, until I disconnect the battery, otherwise it will stay on. I kind of figured I wasn't going to come out of this unscathed, but man I'm so anxious to get back up and running, I can't believe this little things is standing in the way.

So waddaya think? I could not find anymore shorts or exposed wiring. The starter motor spins the engine but she just won't wake up.

 

[Greg B.]

Does the "hot" light go out if you pull the lead off the sending unit?

Other questions: mechanical or electric fuel pump? Points or electronic ignition?

 

[70NPORT]

...checked no 1 & 3 spark plug wires for spark, none...

 

[70NPORT]

Does the "hot" light go out if you pull the lead off the sending unit?

Other questions: mechanical or electric fuel pump? Points or electronic ignition?

....it's disconnected. I have mech. gauges (wtr temp/oil press/amp).

mech fuel pump
electronic ign

 

[70NPORT]

....the engine hot light only activates when the car starts now....and then it stays out because it is disconnected from the sender (which doesn't exist anymore, either).

 

[Greg B.]

....the engine hot light only activates when the car starts now....and then it stays out because it is disconnected from the sender (which doesn't exist anymore, either).

I take it you mean it used to go out?

This sadly sounds like you have fried something in the wiring leading to the instruments. Maybe that was that puff of smoke you thought you saw? As for the no-start, you may have fried an ignition module. They can be sensitive to this sort of thing.

 

[70NPORT]

I take it you mean it used to go out?

This sadly sounds like you have fried something in the wiring leading to the instruments. Maybe that was that puff of smoke you thought you saw? As for the no-start, you may have fried an ignition module. They can be sensitive to this sort of thing.

Ugh. I was hoping the link burned up before something like that happened. Well, Ive got another ign module hanging around, maybe I'll swap it and see what happens. Damn, everything else works absolutely fine.

 

[70NPORT]

Slot no. 28 (per 70' Chrysler engine compartment wiring diagram) on the bulk head connector is still energized, that is it stays on....I put a test light on it and the light comes on (the others are dark). So if I'm following this right, it must be part of the circuit the "hot engine" light bulb is on.

 

[Greg B.]

OK, so then it;s hot before it gets near the dash, so that's something to go on.

 

[70NPORT]

yes, that's a clue. I guess that means I can narrow it down a bit to something happening in the engine compartment as opposed under the dash.

 

[polara71]

Get Stans test light out........ and you checked your module and resistor?

 

[70NPORT]

Get Stans test light out........ and you checked your module and resistor?

Resistor- yes. Double yea, lol.

Negative on the module though. I'll do that first thing in the morning. I've got a spare one sitting around somewhere, I think.

 

[70NPORT]

And so the saga ends.....I'm back in business. However, the "engine hot" light will not turn out when the car is shut off. When the car is on it will shut off, weird. So for now (the immediate now) to keep from having a constant draw on the batt while the car is off, I'll have to pop the pos cable off the batt post. I'm don't plan on tolerating this condition for long however. Now though, I'm just happy to be back up and running.

I ended up making the fusible link from scratch. Basically its a wire with a special type of chemical in the insulation that makes it "slow burn" when it sees a short, instead of immediately catching fire. Rule of thumb is it should be about 4 wire gauge sizes smaller than what it's protecting. I found some raw wire at NAPA, got some male/female mechanical connectors (I didn't want to solder it) for each end and cobbled it together. I put heat/shrink wrap around the bare connectors so nothing is exposed, and then enclosed it in flame retardant flexible conduit tubing.

Took about one afternoon, and that's b/c I'd never done it before.

Next weekend I'm getting up under the dash to take the ammeter out of play so I don't have the potential of this happening again. Thus, the chapter is closed.

 

[polara71]

So where on CSR will I find those tire marks? I want proof!!:icon_thumright: