I pulled the 383 out of my 66 windsor

[Cartel]

If there’s any ring ridge at the top of the cylinders that block will need to be bored out .030 and you’ll need pistons anyway. Are all of the rings loose on the pistons? After all the years and miles on that engine it is all but guaranteed that the cylinders are not round so even if the ridge isn’t extensive at the top of the bores it will likely need the overbore just to straighten them out and make them round.

there is a ridge, more on the low side and top than the sides so all of the above. some pins are tight too. the oil rings are sticking though.
the timing chain was super sloppy. I'm glad I parked it

 

[david hill]

Here is my take on how to rebuild w/ success. As @dematt said bore the cylinders .030 over. That will insure good ring seal also it will remove the ridge at the top of the cyl. bores eliminating possible piston ring breakage. As for your crankshaft, if measuring w/ a micrometer allows, micro polish the rod and main journals. Of course repalce the oil pump w/ new and the timing chain and gears. New cam bearings and camshaft w/ lifters is a must as both have a limited life cycle. If you don't do it now, you will later. Check the fuel pump push rod for wear. Notorious known for wearing at the tip, replace if found. Assemble your engine w/ high quality engine assembly lube and coat the camshft lobes w/ cam assembly grease. Any other questions you may have PM me.

 

[Cartel]

just a few questions:
HASTINGS MANUFACTURING 2M683
only top rig is moly...is that standard?

melling timing chain:
MELLING 40407 High Performance .250 Inch Seamless Double Roller Timing Chain
that ok? true roller?

DURA-BOND PD17 seems highly reccomended


also these shop charges? I havent brought the crank or rods yet...this is CAD dollars
Am I getting a deal here? I'm not feeling great about it so far

 

[CBODY67]

Moly is only on the top ring.

ANY roller chain is better than a normal chain.

DuraBond has been around for ages, not just decades, but AGES. No problems.

Prices? If it's a quality machine shop, pay the money and get on with things.

No balancing or line hone?

What pistons? I see "rough hone", but no pistons in the parts list? How are they going to size each hole with no pistons? Cyl head reconditioning?

CBODY67

 

[Cartel]

Moly is only on the top ring.

ANY roller chain is better than a normal chain.

DuraBond has been around for ages, not just decades, but AGES. No problems.

Prices? If it's a quality machine shop, pay the money and get on with things.

No balancing or line hone?

What pistons? I see "rough hone", but no pistons in the parts list? How are they going to size each hole with no pistons? Cyl head reconditioning?

CBODY67

I got Speed Pro L2315F pistons. I waited 3 weeks for him to tell me if I needed bore or not. I should have just got them right away. He said he was gonna look up prices for me as "he buys alot of parts and such" well he said the Speed Pro L2315F were discontinued and could get silvolite cast for over $1000. I knew it wasnt gonna be a deal but thats almost 4 times what I could get them for off rock auto. this isnt a fun time for me at all. I try to give people the benefit of the doubt and it always bites me in the *** when it comes to local shops.

the heads I'm not sure what to do. the crank is still standing here. He only degreased the block, measured, hot tanked and magna fluxed so far. I would hope he scrubbed the oil passages and cleaned the bolt holes out and such. Its like I gotta go and double check and babysit a bit.

 

[Cartel]

can a guy buy half grove main bearings anymore? I'm also worried about having to file a notch in brand new rod bearings..
not alot of selection out there

 

[CBODY67]

I was under the impression that all OEM-style 383 rod bearings were grooved only on one side. The old Direct Connection Race Manual said of you wanted full-grooved mains, to get two sets and just use the grooved ones on both sides of the mains.

CBODY67