Cartel
Active Member
there is a ridge, more on the low side and top than the sides so all of the above. some pins are tight too. the oil rings are sticking though.
the timing chain was super sloppy. I'm glad I parked it
I pulled the 383 out of my 66 windsor
- Thread starter Cartel
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the timing chain was super sloppy. I'm glad I parked it
Here is my take on how to rebuild w/ success. As @dematt said bore the cylinders .030 over. That will insure good ring seal also it will remove the ridge at the top of the cyl. bores eliminating possible piston ring breakage. As for your crankshaft, if measuring w/ a micrometer allows, micro polish the rod and main journals. Of course repalce the oil pump w/ new and the timing chain and gears. New cam bearings and camshaft w/ lifters is a must as both have a limited life cycle. If you don't do it now, you will later. Check the fuel pump push rod for wear. Notorious known for wearing at the tip, replace if found. Assemble your engine w/ high quality engine assembly lube and coat the camshft lobes w/ cam assembly grease. Any other questions you may have PM me.
Cartel
Active Member
just a few questions:
HASTINGS MANUFACTURING 2M683
only top rig is moly...is that standard?
melling timing chain:
MELLING 40407 High Performance .250 Inch Seamless Double Roller Timing Chain
that ok? true roller?
DURA-BOND PD17 seems highly reccomended
also these shop charges? I havent brought the crank or rods yet...this is CAD dollars
Am I getting a deal here? I'm not feeling great about it so far
HASTINGS MANUFACTURING 2M683
only top rig is moly...is that standard?
melling timing chain:
MELLING 40407 High Performance .250 Inch Seamless Double Roller Timing Chain
that ok? true roller?
DURA-BOND PD17 seems highly reccomended
also these shop charges? I havent brought the crank or rods yet...this is CAD dollars
Am I getting a deal here? I'm not feeling great about it so far
Moly is only on the top ring.
ANY roller chain is better than a normal chain.
DuraBond has been around for ages, not just decades, but AGES. No problems.
Prices? If it's a quality machine shop, pay the money and get on with things.
No balancing or line hone?
What pistons? I see "rough hone", but no pistons in the parts list? How are they going to size each hole with no pistons? Cyl head reconditioning?
CBODY67
ANY roller chain is better than a normal chain.
DuraBond has been around for ages, not just decades, but AGES. No problems.
Prices? If it's a quality machine shop, pay the money and get on with things.
No balancing or line hone?
What pistons? I see "rough hone", but no pistons in the parts list? How are they going to size each hole with no pistons? Cyl head reconditioning?
CBODY67
Cartel
Active Member
I got Speed Pro L2315F pistons. I waited 3 weeks for him to tell me if I needed bore or not. I should have just got them right away. He said he was gonna look up prices for me as "he buys alot of parts and such" well he said the Speed Pro L2315F were discontinued and could get silvolite cast for over $1000. I knew it wasnt gonna be a deal but thats almost 4 times what I could get them for off rock auto. this isnt a fun time for me at all. I try to give people the benefit of the doubt and it always bites me in the *** when it comes to local shops.
the heads I'm not sure what to do. the crank is still standing here. He only degreased the block, measured, hot tanked and magna fluxed so far. I would hope he scrubbed the oil passages and cleaned the bolt holes out and such. Its like I gotta go and double check and babysit a bit.
Cartel
Active Member
can a guy buy half grove main bearings anymore? I'm also worried about having to file a notch in brand new rod bearings..
not alot of selection out there
not alot of selection out there
I was under the impression that all OEM-style 383 rod bearings were grooved only on one side. The old Direct Connection Race Manual said of you wanted full-grooved mains, to get two sets and just use the grooved ones on both sides of the mains.
CBODY67
CBODY67
Cartel
Active Member
I came to the realization that its just expensive and I just gotta deal with it.
I should be ok. This shop is pretty good
I'm not knocking them or anything I just had some sticker shock I guess
He could be machining a 50,000$ engine or a 500$ engine, you pay the bucks either way.
At least it will be my motor, I built it and its mine forever after this
I should be ok. This shop is pretty good
I'm not knocking them or anything I just had some sticker shock I guess
He could be machining a 50,000$ engine or a 500$ engine, you pay the bucks either way.
At least it will be my motor, I built it and its mine forever after this
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
I don't know if the engine has been apart before but it certainly looks like someone painted it red in the past. As far as I remember all the 383's in 66 were painted turquoise. However, as long as it is out it looks like now would be the time to refresh it.
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Red is a Canadian thing.
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
That makes sense. I guess that is why there is no evidence of turquoise paint.
Cartel
Active Member
I guess I'll continue here.
I got the block back, got the crank and pistons rods.
I still need to figure out what to do about heads rockers and push rods.
But I need to start cleaning stuff so its everyone's favorite time, parts washing and wire wheeling.
I got the block back, got the crank and pistons rods.
Got my 66 383 block back from the machine shop
Took a few quick pictures. I'm a bit worried anout this front cam bearing. Is it something to take it back for? $2800 you'd think it would be perfect. I was there all summer. lifter bores look untouched. not sure it thats good or not
www.forcbodiesonly.com
I still need to figure out what to do about heads rockers and push rods.
But I need to start cleaning stuff so its everyone's favorite time, parts washing and wire wheeling.
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Cartel
Active Member
I got this little parts washer for $35 off craigs and I'm happy with it. I think I need some diesel or something else in here
I'm pretty surpised at the quality of all the bolts and brackets. It might be the varsol but I feel like I'm panning for gold.
I'm pretty surpised at the quality of all the bolts and brackets. It might be the varsol but I feel like I'm panning for gold.
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Cartel
Active Member
My Godfather let me borrow this cool old school trouble light. I hope I remember where all these bolts go.
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Cartel
Active Member
Well on with the primer and paint.
proform 654 primer was what I was told on the tins and block
proform 654 primer was what I was told on the tins and block
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Cartel
Active Member
The duplicolor industrial red is next and this was spraying horribly. The tip would not come out so I could not change it. It sprayed like chain lube. Gonna be alot of runs but this isnt a beauty contest, I just what to get something on it before it rusts.
As my fore-fathers would say, "good enough for the girls I know".
As my fore-fathers would say, "good enough for the girls I know".
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Cartel
Active Member
Well I have not smashed main bearings now and a new cam and lifter set. I said **** it and went with the XE274H-10
I grabbed some ferrah 5000 series 2.08 and 1.74 SS valves and I'm gonna use the 516's
Rock auto sent me returned mains with a taped up box and bites in he bearing edges so I had to order another set elsewhere.
hope you are all doing well.
I grabbed some ferrah 5000 series 2.08 and 1.74 SS valves and I'm gonna use the 516's
Rock auto sent me returned mains with a taped up box and bites in he bearing edges so I had to order another set elsewhere.
hope you are all doing well.
Cartel
Active Member
I put the cam and the crank in today
I almost put the bearings in upside down, like a dumb a$$.
It spins good and smooth. the lucas is sticky though.
I couldnt spin the cam with my fingers but I could easy with a flat tip screwdriver on the pin. It seamed to want to walk inside the engine. thats no gear on it though and me applying inward to keep the screwdriver on there too. but it turns!
I almost put the bearings in upside down, like a dumb a$$.
It spins good and smooth. the lucas is sticky though.
I couldnt spin the cam with my fingers but I could easy with a flat tip screwdriver on the pin. It seamed to want to walk inside the engine. thats no gear on it though and me applying inward to keep the screwdriver on there too. but it turns!
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Cartel
Active Member
Ok I'm putting pistons in and did one side. rod number 1-3-5-7 I snugged up the caps as I went but not full torque yet. everything is turning smooth. I got number 2 in and snugged it and it was harder to turn. I went 1 turn and notice I put the cap on backwards ffs. I took it off and popped the bearings out. they have a shiny spot now. the crank looks fine. how bad did I f up?
It looks like it had a defecy so maybe an omen?
It looks like it had a defecy so maybe an omen?
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What you did was scuff the coating of the bearing. I don't remember you saying what type of bearings you are using.
It's probably OK, but I think you may be better off replacing that bearing. I'm actually surprised that it bolted together at all, but since it did, I'd be concerned with how round the bearing is now.
Did you check clearances?
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