i should not have installed these two gauges

I use mechanical gauges for these 2 ESSENTIAL data. I love electricity and its many uses but to stay informed of the state of a running engine I always get mechanical gauges for these 2 particular quantities. You did the right thing here bro. I run 5w30 SAE in Mathilda and she gets 50 psi at 1500+ rpm, 20 psi @ 550 curb idle when warmed up to 190 Fahrenheit. W the Cold Case radiator I bought this spring, reinforced by a switched electric pusher fan in front and an 18" 6 blade steel clutch fan, I ran Tilly on the hottest days in traffic, never getting over 200 F coolant temp, or oil pressure below 20 psi.
 
I don't want to drill more holes in my firewall than i don't have too
 
electric gauges not running analog gauges, will get a analog test gauge soon

Not really the correct usage of "analog". Analog can refer to the type of readout, basically a needle reading against a numbered face, like a clock or a speedometer. It can also refer to the signal that the gauge receives. A conventional electric aftermarket gauge reads the resistance of the sender and that is basically an "analog" reading. You can also say that the oil pressure running through the lines to a mechanical gauge is an "analog" signal. That's a pretty simplified explanation and just trying to make sure we are all on the same page.

What I know you are trying to say is you are using electrical gauges rather than mechanical gauges.

Which brings us to preference of one versus the other.

I use electrical gauges..... Two reasons. First, with oil pressure, is to keep the oil (hot and under pressure) out of the car interior. The plastic (usually) or copper lines can break or crack. I've seen and experienced the plastic line cracking up under the dash and it can be a real mess. Nothing like ruining a few hundred dollars of nice new carpet to spoil your day.

Second reason is ease of installation. Running a couple of wires is a lot easier than routing a stiff bourdon tube for the temperature gauge through the firewall and up under the dash. Oil pressure is a little easier, but you have to be careful, just like the temp gauge tube, about kinking or cutting the tube.

Now, let's talk about accuracy....

Face it, automotive aftermarket gauges are junk. It's all about price point and how they look. I have never found any statement of how accurate an aftermarket gauge is from any supplier... With one exception, and Autometer does list a "better that 2% accuracy" for their high dollar stepper motor gauges. That means a 100 PSI gauge will be accurate to +/- 2 PSI. Nothing stellar about that.

Every other industrial or test gauge manufacturer on earth will list the accuracy or at least the accuracy class.... Except these guys.

So..... What is more accurate? I don't know. The "wive's tale" is that mechanical gauges are more accurate, but I've never seen real data to prove it. I do believe that the mechanical gauges are more "robust" and they have the advantage of giving a reading without the ignition on. The electrical does have a separate sender, so the accuracy is a combination of the sender and the gauge movement. I lean towards the electrical gauges being more accurate, but that's only a halfassed opinion, based on the third world being able to make better cheap electrical stuff over cheap mechanical stuff. Truth is probably that one is just as accurate as the other in this application.

IMHO, the gauges in your car are for reference and that's it. You want to see changes and trends. If you prefer electrical, as I do, that's great. If you prefer mechanical, that's fine too. Just statements of one versus the other are based on lore or personal experience and not on any written accuracy specs from the gauge makers.

My suggestion of using a cheap mechanical gauge to verify your oil pressure is based on the word "cheap" followed by "easy". It would be fairly easy to hook up in your garage and is a great diagnostic piece to have in your toolbox for the future. Buying another electrical gauge and sender doesn't fit my version of "cheap", so I didn't suggest it.

Then again... What do I know....
 
I was always told the idiot lights are for telling you that you just lost your engine...
 
Given my experience with an aftermarket temperature gauge I wouldn't trust yours. My OEM F100 temp gauge always showed the needle at the straight up position before rebuild. I still does that now after the rebuild or a little to the right if sitting still in traffic. The aftermarket gauge shows that temperature to be 225F degrees! So with the truck running in the driveway I put a thermometer in the radiator. It read 200F, using 195 thermostat, and the OEM gauge straight up and the aftermarket at 225F. What should I believe? I'll go with my big thermometer in the radiator. Normally I would never have questioned these gauges and blindly accepted what I saw but that engine rebuild made me dig further.
 
what would you use? find me something sub 40 dollars
I'm not saying it's not worth it, I'm just saying don't bet your life on its accuracy. If it tends to agree with current instrumentation I'd tend to believe it and use it to validate what I feel I have to do. I would tend to not use it as a sole source of determining that I have/not to rebuild an engine. YMMV
 
I won't worry about it if my valve lifters aint ticking i'll be good to go
 
Sometimes people overthink these things. I used to have an old pickup that used a lot of oil, drove it that way from Northern MN to SoCal, used 22 qts of oil enroute.. When the oil got low enough the lifters would collapse and the truck would slow way down so I'd pull over and dump 3 qts in and be back on my way. Oil pressure was IIRC around 30psi in the dead of a MN winter, (think -20F), so there wasn't much restriction to flow in the bearings....... when I finally tore it down after I replaced it I could move the pistons side to side in the bore a significant amount but the dang thing would barely ripple the coffee in a cup sitting on the air cleaner, the smoothest running engine I've ever had.
 
Given my experience with an aftermarket temperature gauge I wouldn't trust yours. My OEM F100 temp gauge always showed the needle at the straight up position before rebuild. I still does that now after the rebuild or a little to the right if sitting still in traffic. The aftermarket gauge shows that temperature to be 225F degrees! So with the truck running in the driveway I put a thermometer in the radiator. It read 200F, using 195 thermostat, and the OEM gauge straight up and the aftermarket at 225F. What should I believe? I'll go with my big thermometer in the radiator. Normally I would never have questioned these gauges and blindly accepted what I saw but that engine rebuild made me dig further.
Several thoughts, not meant to be critical of anyone:
  • Ford has been known to install gauges that are nothing more than idiot lights, pointing straight up when the switch is satisfied, especially in Vic copcars (so that the cops don't spend much time looking at them).
  • With modern OEM gauges, there's not necessarily a linear range to the gauge - meaning, the middle 80% of the gauge can show a 20° range, while the last 1/8 of the range could show from 210 to 260. Unless it has numbers, you cannot know that the engineers correlate the needle position to a specific temperature.
  • Depending on where the factory sender is located (should be in the hottest part of the engine) I am not surprised a gauge shows 225 and radiator shows 200. Temperature drop is not linear, meaning 225° water will drop to 200 much faster than 180° will drop the same 20 to 160°.
  • Thermostat ratings mean nothing if the engine's equilibrium operating temp is going to be above that opening point. Meaning if an engine wants to run 220 under certain conditions, the T-stat cannot make it run 195.

JCT -
For all the discussion of how accurate aftermarket gauges are/aren't, go to ground zero. Get a thermal/infrared - point/click tool from Amazon and check it against your gauges, check in various locations on the block, heads, water housing. I've found my Autometer temp gauge to be fairly representative of the state of my engine temperature, within 5° when doing this.

If you are genuinely running this hot, that will surely be dropping your OP too. The OP is the more dire issue, but the temperature might be the cause.
 
From a related oil viscosity thread:
Low oil pressure

I had an experience with a high-mileage engine (318 with 180k) that had blocked heat passages in the heads, so the intake would always stay cold and cause poor atomization and would run rough. I went from a 180 to 195 T-stat to get the engine to run hotter (it did, and it helped) but then at stoplights when warmed up my OP light would flicker.
 
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Cold fast idle.
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Warmed up curb idle in neutral
Just to show that the autometer gauge reads low
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I'm comfortable with this temperature, just as long as i keep it under 80

Was going to adjust my carburetor idle mixture screws but i couldn't budge any of them. Set my timing with a vacuum gauge and checked it my timing light which is at 15°

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