I work better with an incentive

[Zymurgy]

I got a great call tonight. The guy who is going to rebuild my transmission said he would help me pull my engine and transmission.s_dancing2:


I have plenty to do ahead of time to get everything ready to pull, but he is he ready when ever I am. I am very fortunate to have met him. He is Mr. Mopar and knows everything about these cars. He is loaning me a engine stand and bring several other tools to help in the removal of the engine and tranny.


This is exactly the incentive I need. I work better when I feel like someone is waiting for me to complete the task. I get motivated and then want to find the time to do the work. Work is busy so I will have to do most of it on the weekend.

 

[53ryder]

We all need a friend/aquaintance like that! Cool for you!


Glenn

 

[Stormer]

Remind me why you're pulling the engine?

 

[Zymurgy]

Remind me why you're pulling the engine?

I wanted to clean up the engine bay, repaint, repaint the engine. I will do some maintenance items on the engine without tearing it down. What is comes down to is when someone wants to see the engine, I can pop the hood and be proud of how it looks.

 

[rexus31]

If I were you, I would SERIOUSLY consider going through the motor when it is out. You do not want to be pulling a motor once the engine bay is all detailed. Why not do it now while it's out?

 

[Zymurgy]

If I were you, I would SERIOUSLY consider going through the motor when it is out. You do not want to be pulling a motor once the engine bay is all detailed. Why not do it now while it's out?

I know but I am not going to do it. Not in the budget and I just can't bring myself to tear down an engine with 63,000 miles on it and no problems.

 

[rexus31]

I know but I am not going to do it. Not in the budget and I just can't bring myself to tear down an engine with 63,000 miles on it and no problems.

If you are planing to keep the car for the long term, I'd hold off on everything else until rebuilding the motor is in the budget. Despite the 63,000 miles, the motor is still close to 50 years old and could probably use a refresh. I'm telling you from experience, you don't want to pull a motor right after you detail the engine bay. Just sayin'.

 

[commando1]

Decisions. Decisions....
I see both sides of the coin on this one. I'd be torn.

 

[Zymurgy]

If you are planing to keep the car for the long term, I'd hold off on everything else until rebuilding the motor is in the budget. Despite the 63,000 miles, the motor is still close to 50 years old and could probably use a refresh. I'm telling you from experience, you don't want to pull a motor right after you detail the engine bay. Just sayin'.

I hate doing things half ***. I have never rebuilt an engine. I guess I should get a quote at least. What work should I have done? This is uncharted waters for me. I presume my local Mopar guy can recommend some different shops.

Also if I am thinking of doing this I would like to build it so I could possibly increase the HP to around 400 but have no real desire to go above that because it is still going to be a cruiser.

 

[rexus31]

I hate doing things half ***. I have never rebuilt an engine. I guess I should get a quote at least. What work should I have done? This is uncharted waters for me. I presume my local Mopar guy can recommend some different shops.

Also if I am thinking of doing this I would like to build it so I could possibly increase the HP to around 400 but have no real desire to go above that because it is still going to be a cruiser.

Getting your stock motor to 400hp is probably going to add quite a bit to the overall cost. A standard rebuild should include new main, cam and rod bearings, new cam and lifters, timing set, new piston rings, new pistons if an overbore is required, new valves, guides, seals, valve springs, valve job on the heads, new pushrods, new water pump, fuel pump, oil pump, and new gaskets and seals. I would personally get a set of open chamber heads like 452's or 906's to lessen the possibility of detonation. You can most likely pick up a set that have already been gone through with good parts installed for less than getting yours worked over with new components. You most likely have the closed chamber 516's on there now which were great for 100 Octane fuel, but don't work so well with today's "gasoline". I'm telling you Mike, this is the route to take. You'll never have to worry about the motor down the road. If you pull the drivetrain, go through the tranny, restore the engine bay and only spray bomb the motor, that is definitely doing things half assed.

 

[Stormer]

Go through it while it's out, crazy not to. My .02...

 

[rexus31]

Remind me why you're pulling the engine?

I wanted to clean up the engine bay, repaint, repaint the engine. I will do some maintenance items on the engine without tearing it down. What is comes down to is when someone wants to see the engine, I can pop the hood and be proud of how it looks.

So it can look like this:

 

[polara66hardtop]

I would also do a stock rebuild. My66 Polara just crossed 24,600 actual miles. However, the 66's were known to burn valves. Mine is heading that way, I can hear it on a hot day. it is also a little lethargic, and the valve stem oil seals are letting oil by. But for 48 years old,,She goes down the road. I am so tempted to put a 440 in the car and leave the 383 in a corner for a rebuild.

 

[Zymurgy]

Getting your stock motor to 400hp is probably going to add quite a bit to the overall cost. A standard rebuild should include new main, cam and rod bearings, new cam and lifters, timing set, new piston rings, new pistons if an overbore is required, new valves, guides, seals, valve springs, valve job on the heads, new pushrods, new water pump, fuel pump, oil pump, and new gaskets and seals. I would personally get a set of open chamber heads like 452's or 906's to lessen the possibility of detonation. You can most likely pick up a set that have already been gone through with good parts installed for less than getting yours worked over with new components. You most likely have the closed chamber 516's on there now which were great for 100 Octane fuel, but don't work so well with today's "gasoline". I'm telling you Mike, this is the route to take. You'll never have to worry about the motor down the road. If you pull the drivetrain, go through the tranny, restore the engine bay and only spray bomb the motor, that is definitely doing things half assed.

Thanks as always Scott. I have a lot of info to think over.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I would have to agree, but if a complete rebuild is just not in budget I would at least do head gaskets (felpros might just keep you from pinging/knocking) a timing chain, and a set of rod bearings, maybe mains if you find anything out of ordinary at rod bearings. Those steel shim head gaskets I'll bet are pretty rusty around coolant holes after almost 50 years the gaskets, timing chain and rod bearings are cheap, if it was running okay I would not feel bad about leaving the rest alone.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

I know but I am not going to do it. Not in the budget and I just can't bring myself to tear down an engine with 63,000 miles on it and no problems.

Even still, If it even drips one drop of oil I'd be looking to get a gasket set and at least do that, scrub it down and a fresh coat of paint.

Alan

 

[saforwardlook]

I would have to agree, but if a complete rebuild is just not in budget I would at least do head gaskets (felpros might just keep you from pinging/knocking) a timing chain, and a set of rod bearings, maybe mains if you find anything out of ordinary at rod bearings. Those steel shim head gaskets I'll bet are pretty rusty around coolant holes after almost 50 years the gaskets, timing chain and rod bearings are cheap, if it was running okay I would not feel bad about leaving the rest alone.

I have a few cars with low miles on them, circa 50 - 60K, and I plan to pull the engine and trannys to detail the engine compartment. I do not see the need to rebuild such an engine unless there is clear evidence there is something wrong such as low compression, noises, etc. If it is smooth and quiet, I agree with the above sentiment although I probably would have no reason to touch the bearings. I would agree that replacing the head gasket and even consider using a little thicker one to lower the compression a tiny bit to avoid knock problems on today's gas would be a good move since the steel head gaskets have to be compromised after all these years. I would replace the timing chain with one that didn't have the nylon teeth and refresh the water pump and gaskets all around and install brass freeze plugs and certainly replace the valve guide seals. Once my cars get to 100K miles though, then it is time for a complete rebuild perhaps, but otherwise, I do not see the need for the extra hassle and expense. I would also reseal the transmission when it is out and check the condition of the clutch discs and bands but they latter would probably be OK. But the seals and other rubber parts should be replaced due to the effects of time and temperature on those parts, thus ensuring many years of trouble-free operation. If you want more performance though, you really have to rebuild everything. My 1970 Chrysler 300 didn't have hardened seats and it went to 205K miles before I had to rebuild it, and then it was due to a broken piston ring - the valves never gave me any trouble (I bought the car used in 1972 with 29K miles on it). But I don't beat my cars though.

 

[detmatt]

I just did this as some of you may remember. I was just going to do the heads, cam, timing set, and rear main seal and I was going to leave it in the car to do it. I did end up pulling the engine so I could clean up the compartment and do the rear main seal without laying on my back and I'm glad I did. Anyway, what I'm getting at is that you will know what you need to do once you start getting into it and for the most part any and all parts you may need in even the worst case scenario are available immediately from Summit or Jegs. My 136,000 mile 440 surprised the hell out of me when I opened it up to find it didn't even need a timing chain! It was all original and had never been apart. I could have pulled the valve covers, put new valve seals on it and called it a day.

 

[vdk2010]

So it can look like this:

That look gorgeous!

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Except the picture quality being excellent those engine bay pics look like 1965 probably better than 1965

Check that look at the wires lines on drivers inner all straight bet it wasn't like that in 65.