ID my Carb, please (for a rebuild kit)

[Ghostultramarine]

Time to rebuild my carb. Problem, I am not sure the model/make so I can order the proper kit.

I will post some pictures of it. (Also, if you notice anything off - springs, clips, wires, etc in the wrong place, please let me know - I am still learning.)

Thank you, in advance!

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

4421s

 

[CBODY67]

Carter BBD with the 1.56" throttle bores, otherwise termed "BBD 1.5". There were also BBDs for 318s, which had a smaller and more curved front section (float bowl area) with 1.44" throttle bores.

Do NOT over-torque the air cleaner wing nut!!! When you take it apart, check the air horn gasket on the throttle bore side of the casting for depression (i.e., sealing) evidence. When putting it back together, start with the center screws and work outward in a circular fashion. Once done, do it again.

If the air cleaner wing nut is tightened too much, over time, it will pull upward on the air cleaner stud and warp the housing upward, which can cause issues. Snug only.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Ghostultramarine]

Is it the C in the circle that identifies it as a Carter?

Also, how does it identify as a 4421s? It only has “6-1790” cast on it?

 

[69monaco]

So easy............GOOGLE!!

VINTAGE CARTER 2-Barrel Carburetor 6-1790 Chrysler Parts! | eBay

Found the bag on a shelf in Grandpa's Barn.

www.ebay.com

 

[Ghostultramarine]

So easy............GOOGLE!!

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.com/it...783246&hash=item4247c13d83:g:m-kAAOSwL6hg2NTm

[/URL]

Well... No. First I would have to search for Carter and that number on the carb does not tell me if it is stock or off something else nor if it’s the model number.

As for trusting what is posted online I see enough contradictions and corrections and back and forth on here, alone, to know even those knowledgeable disagree. My factory service manual does not get overly specific due to potential number of different carbs for 1968...

As for a bag o carb parts from an estate sale barn find - who knows what’s really in there. All she did was list the number and hers has Carter on the casting - I didn’t see that on mine.

 

[Ghostultramarine]

Carter BBD with the 1.56" throttle bores, otherwise termed "BBD 1.5". There were also BBDs for 318s, which had a smaller and more curved front section (float bowl area) with 1.44" throttle bores.

Do NOT over-torque the air cleaner wing nut!!! When you take it apart, check the air horn gasket on the throttle bore side of the casting for depression (i.e., sealing) evidence. When putting it back together, start with the center screws and work outward in a circular fashion. Once done, do it again.

If the air cleaner wing nut is tightened too much, over time, it will pull upward on the air cleaner stud and warp the housing upward, which can cause issues. Snug only.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

Looking online for rebuild kits, I checked out Rockauto and they list 2 different ones for 1968 BBD for a 383.

WALKER PRODUCTS 15479B

and

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS 1565B

from:

Rock Auto

The Carb Doctor lists one which is the same style as the Walker one from Rockauto but the carb numbers listed do not match what is on my carb. However, the listing does state for 1.5 inch BBD.

Carter Carbs at Carb Doctor

CK72 for (1-1/2" bore) Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, Chris-Craft Marine

Carb Doctor

 

[Omni]

Good Morning
Your carb originally had a metal tag affixed to one of the bowl screws. Sadly, through the years these tags either are left off during a rebuild,, or are broken of. Also, that may be a re-built carb in which case the tags are left off intentionally. Why? Because rebuilt carbs use whatever internals the rebuilder has. This is mainly the jets and metering rods.
I would start with the service manual for your car. Check Service Manuals – MyMopar for a down loadable copy. That will tell you what the carb number SHOULD be along with the jets and metering rods. (Jets and metering rods are, as a rule, not included in kits.)
Make sure whatever kit you buy is compatible with todays' stuff that passes for gasoline. If you want to replace the rods and jets contact THE CARBURETOR SHOP His kits DO include them. Not as cheap as Rock Auto, but you aren't getting a 'fits all' either.
As a last resort Woodruff carb Contact Us | Woodruff Carburetor Specialties can rebuild yours.
Good Luck and God Speed
Omni

 

[Ghostultramarine]

Good Morning
Your carb originally had a metal tag affixed to one of the bowl screws. Sadly, through the years these tags either are left off during a rebuild,, or are broken of. Also, that may be a re-built carb in which case the tags are left off intentionally. Why? Because rebuilt carbs use whatever internals the rebuilder has. This is mainly the jets and metering rods.
I would start with the service manual for your car. Check Service Manuals – MyMopar for a down loadable copy. That will tell you what the carb number SHOULD be along with the jets and metering rods. (Jets and metering rods are, as a rule, not included in kits.)
Make sure whatever kit you buy is compatible with todays' stuff that passes for gasoline. If you want to replace the rods and jets contact THE CARBURETOR SHOP His kits DO include them. Not as cheap as Rock Auto, but you aren't getting a 'fits all' either.
As a last resort Woodruff carb Contact Us | Woodruff Carburetor Specialties can rebuild yours.
Good Luck and God Speed
Omni

Thank you. I see on The Carb Shop's website he states:

BBD Series - identified by tag only, once the tag is removed, identification is extremely difficult​

Therefore, the numbers moulded on the carb may well be meaningless. I would think they must mean something to someone or they would not have been put on there but I suppose that could just be an external casting number and the internals could change. *sigh*

 

[CBODY67]

An observed reality to me is that the basic carb rebuild kit should work as the majority of the main castings to be re-gasketed will be the same for the majority of the carburetors. The differences might be in the venturi cluster gaskets, from my experiences.

IF the car runs decently well now, the metering items are pretty much to spec. In general, the carbs were calibrated for a cruise mixture of 14.7 :1 air/fuel ratio. The stamp numbers on the metering rods and main jets do mean something, which the FSM also verifies, but no decode list for which rods have what diameters in the FSM, just the stamp numbers. You can measure the diameters with a digital caliper (a few dollars at Harbor Freight or similar). The Carburetor Shop in Eldon, MO might be a resource for such decodes as Jon has been very deep into Carter Carburetors for decades.

Basically what you'll be doing with the rebuild is to ensure all of the small passages and such in the fuel circuits are clean and unobstructed by varnish and other soft deposits. Then adding new gaskets to ensure all of the fuel is getting to where it needs to go.

When you take the carb apart, then you'll have gaskets to compare to and use the appropriate ones. Worst case scenario is that you might have to re-use a few of the venturi cluster gaskets, I suspect. Usually there are more gaskets than needed for the Chrysler applications.

I'd just order the kit for the car's model year. Odds are it'll have what you need in it.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

My factory service manual does not get overly specific due to potential number of different carbs for 1968...

If you really look at the FSM, you'll probably find there's a maximum of 4 different carb numbers with the Carter BBD. Look up all the carb kits for each of those numbers and I'll bet that they all list the same rebuild kit.

One other thing... When asking for anything tech, put the year, make, model, engine size and whatever else in your first post. I looked at this when you posted and probably like others, decided not to respond since it makes the task harder and usually doesn't give the correct answers. I read through this thread and can't help but think that it could have been answered pretty easily without all the speculation.

The only info I see here is it's a 1968. I'm going to assume it's a Plymouth. Looking at the pics, I can see no distributor in the rear, so I can assume it's a 383. Same pic shows the throttle linkage to the trans, so it's an automatic. So, 1968 383 2bbl Carter BBD with an automatic and if it's not a Plymouth, the Dodge and Chrysler are probably the same carb numbers.

Plymouth FSM shows BBD-4423S I don't have a '68 Dodge or Chrysler FSM to cross check. That shows two carbs, one being an auto and one being a stick. Other models could be for California or possibly Canada, but in this Plymouth FSM, there is really only one carb listed.

 

[Ghostultramarine]

If you really look at the FSM, you'll probably find there's a maximum of 4 different carb numbers with the Carter BBD. Look up all the carb kits for each of those numbers and I'll bet that they all list the same rebuild kit.

One other thing... When asking for anything tech, put the year, make, model, engine size and whatever else in your first post. I looked at this when you posted and probably like others, decided not to respond since it makes the task harder and usually doesn't give the correct answers. I read through this thread and can't help but think that it could have been answered pretty easily without all the speculation.

The only info I see here is it's a 1968. I'm going to assume it's a Plymouth. Looking at the pics, I can see no distributor in the rear, so I can assume it's a 383. Same pic shows the throttle linkage to the trans, so it's an automatic. So, 1968 383 2bbl Carter BBD with an automatic and if it's not a Plymouth, the Dodge and Chrysler are probably the same carb numbers.

Plymouth FSM shows BBD-4423S I don't have a '68 Dodge or Chrysler FSM to cross check. That shows two carbs, one being an auto and one being a stick. Other models could be for California or possibly Canada, but in this Plymouth FSM, there is really only one carb listed.

View attachment 639158

Its my fault for posting on one platform (desktop) and then editing it on my mobile to post the pictures.

I know it deleted some of the post and I never gave it a final proofreading again after it reposted.

It’s a ‘68 Chrysler with 383 (and automatic - never would have guessed they used different carbs between std and auto for the same engine in the same year!).

I’ll cross reference my FSM (and post what is pictured in it) but the bbd carb pictured does not match the one on the car. In fact, the FSM is vague on the BBD carbs. That’s why I posted on here.

 

[Big_John]

It’s a ‘68 Chrysler with 383 (and automatic - never would have guessed they used different carbs between std and auto for the same engine in the same year!).

I’ll cross reference my FSM (and post what is pictured in it) but the bbd carb pictured does not match the one on the car. In fact, the FSM is vague on the BBD carbs. That’s why I posted on here.

Yes, the carbs are usually different between the automatic and the manual trans. It could be a very subtle difference and the carbs may interchange without any noticeable issues, but it's done for the best drivability for each combination.

I don't have a '68 Chrysler FSM to look at, but the Plymouth FSM has a section on the BBD 1 1/2" that looks pretty decent and it's the carb on your car. The FSM can be frustrating at times... They sometimes reuse old illustrations and pictures... And you always have to remember it was written before the car was built.

If your FSM doesn't cover it, try going over to MyMopar and grab a Plymouth version.

Here's a couple links to the Mopar service highlights that may help. The 68-2 doesn't have much, but the 69-8 has much more. https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/261.pdf and https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/243.pdf

 

[volksworld]

one of the other joys to these situations is that the odds of your 50 year old carb actually being the one that it left the factory with are pretty slim...owners and "gas station mechanics" just went to the local parts house and grabbed a rebuilt carb in hopes that it cured the problem...if it didn't they took it back and gave you another one...sooner or later you got lucky and found one that worked...the rebuilders hot tanked the carbs and threw in a kit with absolutely no clue what might have been the problem and no post rebuild testing...