Installing factory A/C on a manual trans car

Thanks for posting that. It’s very helpful to know before starting a project like this.
It’s not the entire firewall, it’s the hole where the air passes through the firewall. Need to remove the heater box and you will see welded in frame and a flapper door with a rubber seal. This area is different between air and non air.

Gary Goers sold the seals and listed different in the catalog, see photo.
549A or 549B


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My opinion is to Swap in the A/C dash and the A/C HVAC box and get the heater and vents all working, but you don't have to hook up any of the A/C stuff right now. Then down the road if you do decided you want A/C you can easily add the under hood components. Or if you sell the car you can include all the A/C parts to get it working to the new owner.

But for under the hood you can get a low mount bracket set up for a Sanden A/C compressor that mounts it bellow the Alternator, you do have to go electric fuel pump with this option though, but at least you would not see the modern compressor up top.
FWIW, there are some caveats to that particular AC installation. I was kinda excited to see this kit several months ago, but the footnotes made me reconsider.

Based on how they routed it, it looks like the compressor has maybe 150deg of belt wrap, and THEN must also drive the alternator load.
A top-side idler pulley, mounted 1/2 way between WP and compressor and pushing down on the belt, would get more belt wrap, I don't know if that is compatible with a V-belt.

BPE A/C Compressor Mounting Bracket Kit Crate Hemi & Big Block - Bouchillon Performance Engineering
NOTES: 1-You will loose your mounting for your Mechanical Fuel Pump
2-Some Engine Mounts and Insulators will require Clearancing and Modifications for fit.
3-Any Alternator other than Stock Output (15/60 amps) will cause a BELT SQUEAL FROM HELL! ALL HI Output Alternators (50/75 Amps) we list will not work.
4-This is the HARDEST BRACKET WE MANUFACTURE TO INSTALL CORRECTLY. Mounting Points have moved over the years in Castings, Fore and Aft. Compressor and Alternator is driven by 1 Single Belt. It is Highly Recommended that this bracket be installed while Engine is on an Engine Stand. Perfect Pulley Alignment is REQUIRED (+-.040"). A Straight Edge and Digital Calipers recommended to check TRUE PULLEY ALIGNMENT. PREMIUM BELT IS A MUST.
5-This Bracket is NOT Recommended for a vehicle that will be driven alot or long distances. Most popular applications are vehicles that stay close to home. Adjustments are hard to perform on the highway.
6-NOT HEEDING TO ALL NOTES ABOVE WILL AWARD YOU A "BELT SQUEAL FROM HELL"

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My daily driving project car is a 61 Fury 361
GC with 3 on the tree. It had a aftermarket radio
and hacked dash frame. My plans are to change dash frame. I have 3 parts car dash frames to choose from,but they are all factory A/C frames.
A/C in 61 Plymouth is fairly rare and was very expensive back then. Over $600 at the time.
I also have a parts 61 imperial and 3 63 300s all with factory A/C. I think I have all needed to convert 61 over to A/C.
My problem is Im not that big of a fan A/C and I’m not to crazy about A/C with 3 speed manual.
Advice and opinions please about swap.
Is A/C with manual a bad idea?
Is 1961 A/C have serviceable parts?
I would not be interested in new style parts look under hood?
Would it hurt the value not being original A/C car?
Is it a big cans of worms to get into?

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Sgt Fury do you have an upgrade radio grill for my Dodge 880 with A/C?
 
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