Cartel
Active Member
Is this normal cam wear?
- Thread starter Cartel
- Start date
Cartel
Active Member
Cartel
Active Member
why would it wear on the base circle?
Cartel
Active Member
101000 or 201000 not sure
all stock 66 383 2bbl
all stock 66 383 2bbl
Cartel
Active Member
maybe sticking valves holding pressure on the cam? Its gotta go anyway but I was just curious if it looks like typical of anything. maybe oil starvation?
Dads300
Active Member
I would call that not unexpected for a presumably near 60 year old engine. However, I would replace it if I were pressing the engine back into service.
Travis..
Travis..
The only oil the cam lobes and lifter bottoms see are "splash". The cam bearings get pressure lube, though. Is there any noise from these things? The bottom of the lifters would "tell the tale", though, I suspect.
CBODY67
CBODY67
With 100K (or 200k) miles on it, I would say that's pretty normal.
I'd toss it and replace if it were me.
I'd toss it and replace if it were me.
If you opt to replace you cam, be sure to find an oil with a high ZDDP content. Older flat tappet cams need the extra additive to prevent excessive wear. Modern oils had the ZDDP content reduced to keep from trashing the catalyst. Most Diesel rated oils such as Valvoline 15-40 all fleet or RPM Delo 400 have enough additives to prevent abnormal cam wear.
Dave
Dave
57fury440
Well-Known Member
Castrol GT Classic has lots of ZDDP in it. I use it in my engines but for a break in there are a few good oils made just for that. I agree too, that cam and lifters needs to be replaced.
Justin Plant
Well-Known Member
The lifter spins in its bore as it moves up and down. the wear looks normal as stated above. If the lifter was stuck, you'd see a square "kinda" shaped wipe on the bottom. then you have a big problem.
You have ~100 lbs. of spring pressure with the valve closed. With the 1.5:1 rocker arm, that figures out to ~66lbs of pressure with the valve closed...
That means there is 66lbs of pressure pushing down on the cam when it's on the "base circle". So, yes, there will be wear.
With the valve open all the way, you have ~200lbs of spring pressure, and that translates to ~132lbs at full opening.
Retired auto tech
New Member
The cam and lifters are completely shot. The lobes are disintegrating and the lifter bottoms are no longer concave in shape. Time for a cam, lifter and timing chain swap. As for oil always use a high ZDDP content made for flat tappet camshafts. Lucas Hot Rod and Classic, Amsoil Z-Rod, Mobil 1 zinc, Pennzoil Racing, Rotella and Valvoline VR1 ZDDP are just some on the market at the moment. There are many others. There was a shop near me that had built a 455 Olds engine for a customer
and wiped out two sets of cam and lifters in a row. I suggested that he switch to Z-Rod which solved the problem for ever. Today's engine oils offer many options specially formulated for different applications. In searching for an oil for my wife's Fiat 1.4l multiAir Turbo, the only one I could find that met all of both Fiat's and Chrysler's specifications was Pennzoil 5w-40 European. It has special additives that not only make it an engine oil but provide the characteristics of a hydraulic oil to operate the high pressure requirements of the MultiAir Brick that operates the intake valves. I can show you the $3500. repair bill from the dealer that resulted from not using this oil. A parts guy at the dealership told me that this is the oil that they used as well.
and wiped out two sets of cam and lifters in a row. I suggested that he switch to Z-Rod which solved the problem for ever. Today's engine oils offer many options specially formulated for different applications. In searching for an oil for my wife's Fiat 1.4l multiAir Turbo, the only one I could find that met all of both Fiat's and Chrysler's specifications was Pennzoil 5w-40 European. It has special additives that not only make it an engine oil but provide the characteristics of a hydraulic oil to operate the high pressure requirements of the MultiAir Brick that operates the intake valves. I can show you the $3500. repair bill from the dealer that resulted from not using this oil. A parts guy at the dealership told me that this is the oil that they used as well.
Cartel
Active Member
I will use good oil I was using 15w diesel oil. but I keep hearing "after the cam breaks in you can run any oil you want" I'm not gonna test that.
I realize its worn I was just curious about sabotage but if they all bag out like that, and I've had oil pressure drop on hard acceleration that is why I parked it.
I think the big gutterberg of wax, sludge and sand/dirt in the pan was getting sucked into the engine so that didnt help
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