Just bought an EFI

[monaco75]

If you haven't bought the command centre yet you need to realize it costs more than the other kit they offer. Plus you need to add fuel lines to hook all that up the command centre. Technically you'll be saving money by taking out what you put in. Which probably didn't cost very much as is. Also that 40005 kit is a bargain as the pump and large filter alone is worth over 200 bucks.

Yes I am running a locked out MSD distributor and a 6AL box in order for the Fitech to control the timing. Will see how that works.

Also I recommend finishing your exhaust with o2 sensor and doing the break in with the kit. I learnt a long time ago that trying to break a motor in with open headers is a bad idea. It's so loud you can't hear if somethings off or wrong. Whether it be misadjusted rockers or a rod knock or detonation or anything potentially disastrous.

Sounds like you have a new motor so I'll highly recommend a proper break in oil like Joe Gibbs BR or Brad Penn or Royal Purple.

Yes, but the command center comes with the lines needed. Which doesn't look like much. Just a line from the pump to it, then out of it to the throttle body.

"New" to me engine has a few miles on it. Has a new cam to be broke in. Will deff run some good break in oil when the time comes.

I know of two issues, well 3 so far. The floar on the command center used to get stuck on earlier runs, they have fixed that by now. The supplied high pressure line used to burst, they have also fixed that and supply a russle brand line. Then with the tune, if there is an hesitation, you have to adjust the throttle stop to get the iac between 6 and 10. Thats the only things i could find.

Thank you! Thats what I wanted. Some actual problems, which seem to have been corrected. The command center could take place of the charcoal canister under the hood perfectly imo (if equipped)

 

[Knebel]

So I have changed and received my EFI. I got the 600hp throttle body for $995 and put in an edelbrock sump pump which I paid $440 for. I just got around installing it and I have to say it drives like a completely different car. Its crazy! I have just discovered one little problem so far. In drive, I only get 9" vacuum at idle and when i switch from drive to park, the vacuum jumps to 17 and the rpms jump to 1900rpm. The rpms quickly settle at my desired idle with the vacuum being 14". Its kind of scray when i put it in park and it jumps to almost 2000. Is there a setting which i need to change for that? Could it have something to do with having the vacuum advance on ported vacuum? I mean, i could just have the efi co trol timing too...

 

[65sporty]

Having the EFI control the timing I think will help, switching it to full manifold on the dist may also help. No vacuum leaks? Is the system self learning? I would play with the timing and the vacuum advance first then if you can't get that to solve the problem I would go to the EFI control. I believe you will have to build your own timing curve with the EFI so I would save that for last. Where is your vacuum gauge connected? Full manifold right. You may be able to adjust the idle jump through the IAC valve settings. I hope some of this helps.

 

[Landyacht]

Just ordered an EFI set . Decided that if anything is available under $1300, ill do the swap. Have heared nothing but good about them even tho they are pretty new on the market. Only 5 wires to connect and can use the low pressure pump I already have.

Its got 3 weeks backorder, but i am excited. Should be pretty simple to install!

PAC-30003-FC - 400HP Carb Swap EFI Master Package with Fuel Command System.


Whatch all think of it?

That's not a bad price. I paid double that for my MSD fuel injection system.

 

[Knebel]

I found some info on that.... My IAC was too low in park (0). And i read that its supposed to be between 20 and 50. I closed the throttle stop by a quarter turn which put the iac into the 20 range in park and the TPS at about 0.5%. That improved it dramatically, i dont have such a huge jump anymore putting it into park, it goes to 1200rpm now and then comes right back down. Now, my idle wont go up to my desired 820 anymore and idles at 750. Thats okay but it was way crisper at 820. So i need to fine tune that, all that efi stuff is pretty new but ill get it where i want to.

 

[CanCritter]

efi rocks....

 

[cantflip]

The fact that you can give timing control to the system is what really gets me thinking... I think its neat that you have the ability to do both at that price.

 

[Knebel]

The fact that you can give timing control to the system is what really gets me thinking... I think its neat that you have the ability to do both at that price.

Yes, thats why i got it too! I havent messed with the timing control yet because i dont know how i can phase my distriburor with the pertronix in it.... however, i plan to adapt that later, right now im just wanting to figure out the fuel.

 

[Landyacht]

Yes, thats why i got it too! I havent messed with the timing control yet because i dont know how i can phase my distriburor with the pertronix in it.... however, i plan to adapt that later, right now im just wanting to figure out the fuel.

The MSD Pro Billet distributor can be locked out and a phaseable rotor is available for it. They're not overly expensive. I would suggest looking into whether or not your efi system is compatible with the MSD distributor.

 

[Knebel]

The MSD Pro Billet distributor can be locked out and a phaseable rotor is available for it. They're not overly expensive. I would suggest looking into whether or not your efi system is compatible with the MSD distributor.

The great thing is, my efi system is compatible with whatever. Hei, cdi, 2 wire magnetic pickup...dosent matter. Distributor needs to be locked out and phased. Well, overly expensive depends on how to look at it. I need femal terminal on the cap cause i just bough plugwires too and the msds are $300. But its worth looking into.

 

[69_topless]

I just wonder with these self learning EFI kits, what happend if you kill the battery with the switch? Does it have a internal memory to keep the data, or the self-learning process starts all over again once you connect the battery back?

 

[Knebel]

Once its done learning, you can turn off the learning feature or set the learning process very low and it will store that permanently in the ecu. You can manually perform a reset tho...

 

[cantflip]

Once its done learning, you can turn off the learning feature or set the learning process very low and it will store that permanently in the ecu. You can manually perform a reset tho...

Which is good when you inconsistent fuel quality... like a 1000 mile trip home...

 

[Knebel]

So, I have to say that the car drives like it has a new engine. The idle is so smooth and the response is fantastic! Im not quite done with my tank of gas but it looks like it has increased about 3 or 4 MPG. Its hard to say exactly and im sure it will still get better. When my gas gauge was down exactly one quarter I did calculate almost 15mpg city driving vs 7 with the holley. Sounds a bit too good to be true. Anyways, I like the system, it drives amazing. I gotta do some more tinkering but so far it was worth it.

 

[mopar_4life]

Hi,

Sorry to revamp this older thread. How is this system holding up?

Thanks

Eric

 

[Knebel]

So far pretty good. I have a small issue with it sometimes not wanting to stay running when first started (takes 2 tries). But thats just a finetuning thing in the crank and afterstart fuel which i am getting closer to eliminate the issue. So far I didnt have any major issues with it.

 

[Knebel]

Another small update. Now with freezing temperatures, it is amazing that I turn the key and the car just starts and keeps running. However, I noticed at around 40° outside I need to tap the gas a bit to get it to start...

 

[commando1]

Does your FI have a built in learning curve?

 

[Knebel]

Yes it does, its supposed to learn and self adjust.

 

[saforwardlook]

Late to this thread, but EFI definitely has the potential to eliminate driveability problems usually associated with carburetors over a range of operating conditons and fuels and especially temperature variations.

Even my 1989 Dodge Dakota with EFI from the factory is just amazing (still at 180K miles on it). No big fuel economy benefit (does have O2 sensor feedback system plus other sensors) but the driveability is flawless under virtually any operating conditon. Really cold to very hot, no difference. Just crank it up and go - it never even stumbles and idles like no carburetor ever did. And instant throttle response. Port fuel injection can be even more precise, which is why today's new cars are usually perfect in driveability always.

But for me, my old cars came with carburetors and I will leave them original to represent the past. But for others with different purposes, it is and will be interesting to hear how these aftermarket systems perform and hold up. But not having a CARB EO is a dead end here in California at least, as Cantflip has said if your car is newer than 1975 (therefore subject to smog check in this state). But that only affects some formals mostly. Are most of these EFI systems also O2 sensor feedback?