Knebel
Senior Member
As you can see, my ballast is eliminated and there is a "switched 12v" source instead. Should I wire just the blue "run" wire through the switch or the brown one too?
Just bought an EFI
- Thread starter Knebel
- Start date
No idea without wiring of the components... I would consider a relay from the switch to open whatever wires are going to be defeated. That way the switch isn't handling all the load, and if you ever get stuck with a failed switch or relay... a paper clip could get you home.
Knebel
Senior Member
The source is all switched 12v and powers relays. And I have the main switched 12v coming from the IGN switch power the distribution block. But it has the crank and run wire combined. One is brown one is blue.
I think I get it. Kill the run circuits.
wish4hemi
Member
The brown wire is generally the actual power (relay) source. Depending on the car, the dark blue either continues on to the coil or the alternator.
Brown probably needs to go to the relay switch terminal (86) and also to the coil or alternator.
Brown probably needs to go to the relay switch terminal (86) and also to the coil or alternator.
Knebel
Senior Member
I just got around to wire the switch up. I have put it in line with the blue/white wire coming from the bulkhead (Thats the switched 12v "RUN") and put the inertia switch inline with it. Then connected it to my Switched 12v junction. Works fine I manually enaabled the inertia switch and you can crank the car but it wont start (EFI, fuelpump and Ignition dead). I still need to find out why my brown start wire only has 10.2v and the blue/white rund wire has only 11.90v. I suspect my IGN switch since it is the same on the inside of the Bulkhead.
PS: I ordered some metal fuel line to reduce the rubber a bit too!
PS: I ordered some metal fuel line to reduce the rubber a bit too!
Last edited:
Knebel
Senior Member
Working on the fuel lines, im not gonna do flares and such but eliminate more rubber!
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