Just got the car today a 63 Chrysler New Yorker and have a few questions.

Cal55

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2014
Messages
85
Reaction score
17
Location
LaGrange Highlands
Hello,
My car was delivered today and it's in really nice overall original condition including the paint. The interior is excellent, a little wear on the drivers seat but the glass, dash and door panels are in great shape even the carpeting, it's a little faded in spots but not worn out. I bought it from the original owners grandson, it originally was purchased in National City, California from McCune Motors, the front license plate frame has their name on it too and it has the black Cal. license plate on the front of the car from 1963, I even have the original leather key fob from the dealer. It has a/c, power windows, seats, and door locks, Auto Pilot which I read was an option. I was told it was even in France for a few years when his grandparents lived there. There's a little surface rust in spots but not bad at all. It's a white 4 door hardtop, with a reddish color vinyl interior. I'll have to post some pics after I clean it up. Now for the questions, the seller told me that the power brake booster was bad, the vacuum line was disconnected going to the booster, I hooked it back up and the brake pedal's really hard and barely moves and the brakes feel like they're locking up, so I haven't driven it yet, just in the driveway. The brake lights aren't working but that's probably a dirty or bad brake light switch or the pedals not going down far enough. The engine sounds smooth but I think it's running rich, I pulled 2 spark plugs and they're carboned up and the exhaust smells rich and the gas gauge isn't working. Anyway that's enough for now, I want to get the brakes working so I can take it for a ride and see how it runs, rides,shifts and handles, it has a 413, but maybe they all were, I'm a newby with this car. My parents had a 64 Chrysler 300 that I took my drivers license test in 1971 and drove that had a 383 in it but this car looks very similar to it, including the dash. That's actually why I bought it, nice memories! Any help with the brakes and gas gauge is appreciated.
Joe
 
As long as there is vacuum at the booster you have a bad booster. What's the gas gauge doing? If it's all the way full or empty, disconnect the sender and ground the wire the gauge should sweep. If it does the gauge is good and the sender is bad
 
Sounds like a nice car. Please post pics when you have a chance.

65sporty hit it right on the head. Do what he said. If the gauge sweeps to the full side when you ground it, it's good. If so, remove the fuel tank and pull the sender out of the tank. It could just be stuck from sitting. Clean it up and lubricate it to get the float moving again. Test it out of the tank before you re-install it to make sure the fuel gauge works.

You can get boosters, just have to do some research. While your waiting for the new booster to come in, I would pull all the wheels and look at the brakes, clean them up and lubricate the contact points on the backing plate and adjusters. Make sure your emergency brake cables are good and working. Also make sure the bleeders break loose and the wheel cylinders are working. Run fresh brake fluid through the entire system too. Might be a good idea to replace the master cylinder too. Don't just replace the booster and call it a day! Lookin forward to seeing some pics of her. Congrats on the find.
 
00N0N_33xpUZvJQcD_600x450.jpg01515_8czJLWU1v0R_600x450.jpg24078704-770-0@2X.jpgThanks guys for the replies, the gauge is showing empty. I have a week off in about a week so maybe I'll drop the tank then if I have too. There is vacuum going to the booster, so I guess it's bad. I will pull all the wheels as mention and see what's going on, I'm a novice at best but I've done drum brakes before, I just hate bleeding them. I guess I need to order a booster, the PO's mechanic told him the same thing that the booster was probably bad. I might as well change the master cylinder as mentioned, they're pretty inexpensive. Thanks again and here are a few pictures of it before I bought it, I really like the car so far, even though I haven't driven it!
Joe

00N0N_33xpUZvJQcD_600x450.jpg


01515_8czJLWU1v0R_600x450.jpg


24078704-770-0@2X.jpg
 
:sSig_greetingsthor: .............. :welcome:
Beautiful new Yorker. I like the red interior.

Bleeding the brakes isn't so hard. Back the fitting off a few turns at the wheel cylinders and fill the master cylinder. Then just let it sit for awile. The lines will gravity bleed. Tighten the fittings back ..... fill the MC again and you should have a pretty good pedal. then just bleed each wheel cylinder, starting with the rears.

Rockauto lists the boosters.
1964 CHRYSLER NEW YORKER 6.7L 413cid V8 : Brake/Wheel Hub : Power Brake BoosterPriceCoreTotalAlternate
No parts for vehicles in selected markets.
CENTRIC Part # 16080304 Reman
With Drum Brakes
$133.79$89.00$222.79
CENTRIC Part # 1602504367 Reman
With Drum Brakes
$132.79$100.00$232.
 
Dropping the tank iz very doable but a few suggestions and maybe a few investments need to be made first. 4 GOOD Jack standz and a floor jack if it's not already in your play house. One more thing and you're ready to bring it down. Get under there and measure the gap width between the two hanger straps and the distance of the tank lower portion front to back and take those two measurements to Lowe's or Home Depot and and pay them to cut you a piece of 3/4" plywood to those measurementz. Raise your floor jack to within ah couple inches and centered below the tank. Slide your new piece of plywood centered between the straps on the jack plate and just a little bit of up pressure on the tank and you're ready to remove the nutz on the J boltz. FYI, Fuel weighs right at about 10lb's per gallon and I think you have a 22 gallon tank there with no clue how much iz in it. Good luck, have fun, and keep us posted, Jer
 
Thanks for the compliments and the information. I like Rock Auto too, I might go to Napa today and see if they can order it for me, sometimes they can get the parts the same day. I'd like to work on it this weekend if possible. Thanks for the bleeding tips! It's a nice original car and was well taking care of, it's in great shape for it's age. It brings back memories of when I was 16 cruising around with my friends in my parents 64 Chrysler 300, it was my mom's car but my brother and sisters all drove it too. Thanks Jer for the tips, that's some good information, maybe I'll attempt it in a week or so.
Joe
 
Welcome Joe! I love the details on that dash!

Get under there and measure the gap width between the two hanger straps and the distance of the tank lower portion front to back and take those two measurements to Lowe's or Home Depot and and pay them to cut you a piece of 3/4" plywood to those measurementz. Raise your floor jack to within ah couple inches and centered below the tank. Slide your new piece of plywood centered between the straps on the jack plate and just a little bit of up pressure on the tank and you're ready to remove the nutz on the J boltz. FYI, Fuel weighs right at about 10lb's per gallon and I think you have a 22 gallon tank there with no clue how much iz in it. Good luck, have fun, and keep us posted, Jer

Why do the simplest ideas always seem to evade me? Great advise right there!
 
View attachment 38665View attachment 38666View attachment 38667Thanks guys for the replies, the gauge is showing empty. I have a week off in about a week so maybe I'll drop the tank then if I have too. There is vacuum going to the booster, so I guess it's bad. I will pull all the wheels as mention and see what's going on, I'm a novice at best but I've done drum brakes before, I just hate bleeding them. I guess I need to order a booster, the PO's mechanic told him the same thing that the booster was probably bad. I might as well change the master cylinder as mentioned, they're pretty inexpensive. Thanks again and here are a few pictures of it before I bought it, I really like the car so far, even though I haven't driven it!
Joe

Before you head off and order t hat booster (which is probably the correct diagnosis), spend a few other bucks on a vacuum tester. Pull the vacuum line off the booster that comes from the intake and see if you can pull a vacuum. If you can't, then you absolutely know you need a booster. The vacuum tester will come in quite handy for other diagnoses on the car. All of the HVAC operates with vacuum powered diagphragms as well as the control unit, so it will more than pay for itself by the time you get everything sorted out on the car.
 
Thanks for the welcome! I took it for a brief ride today and noticed there was some play in the steering and it seemed to shift a little rough. It needs new tires so I'm sure that will help too and probably an alignment. It ran fine but it wasn't as quick as I thought it would be, but it's a heavy car and might need a tune-up. I really like the car and have to keep in mind it's 51 years old and will need some work done to it.
Joe
 
Cool car my father has the same car but in blue and a 3 speed gear box. The booster in my 300 did the same thing, made brakes so hard the pedal wouldnt even move. should be an easy swap.
 
I'm envious, '63's are underappreciated GREAT cars IMO. I bet many things will improve just because it needs to be driven.
 
Thanks for the compliments and advice! I think you're right, the car has probably been sitting for a long while. I just ordered new tires for it and it definitely needs an alignment and probably some front the end parts. I ordered the passenger side trim parts that were missing from Murray Parks, that should be arriving tomorrow! Once I get the brakes and front end sorted out and a few misc. things, it should be fine.
Joe
 
Back
Top