‘61 Newport that is new to me- sorting her out and trying to identify some parts….
- Thread starter Nellie Newport
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I’ll get that for you in the morning.
Nellie Newport
New Member
I spoke with Roger at AAJ brakes today- they looked at the pics and confirmed that it was their conversion. The 11” Rotors are 1976 Dodge Dart. Roger was great to deal with, and was extremely helpful.
fury fan
Senior Member
Please pull those spindle bearing adapters off and inspect their ID, and the OD of the mating area on the spindle journal, to see if any wear.
IMO those bearing adapters are a poor method to make a disc brake retrofit, as they create an additional interface surface that is never used in an OEM design.
They would need to be super-precisely machined on hte ID and OD (on the order .005 or less?). Not easy to do on such a thin-wall, multi-diameter item.
If those adapters have any movement vs the spindles (like ratcheting slightly with every brake application) they could be wearing.
If they are press-fit or Lock-Tited, perhaps it's OK.
But if it's metal on metal with a slipfit (like the ID of a bearing race) and the components don't have the right hardnesses, it could be ugly.
I've mentioned this in various forums over the last 20 years, and have never gotten a response from anyone that defended (or could explain) the engineering and/or installation of these adapters.
As you've gotten a car that had the kit installed, you can provide some valuable info.
I have some info on your other questions:
A 3/4" front bar made a noticeable downgrade on my 65 Chrysler when I removed it to repair bushings. So a 3/4" bar with good bushings will help your car noticeably.
If Firmfeel has one that will fit yours, the 1-1/8" size will be even better. (I have one on my 68 Fury)
The PS pump you have involves a rubber bumper down in the bracketry. The bracket at the top has been added by someone.
See this thread, esp post #14, for a good explanation of that engineered bracket setup:
66 New Yorker 440 info
IMO those bearing adapters are a poor method to make a disc brake retrofit, as they create an additional interface surface that is never used in an OEM design.
They would need to be super-precisely machined on hte ID and OD (on the order .005 or less?). Not easy to do on such a thin-wall, multi-diameter item.
If those adapters have any movement vs the spindles (like ratcheting slightly with every brake application) they could be wearing.
If they are press-fit or Lock-Tited, perhaps it's OK.
But if it's metal on metal with a slipfit (like the ID of a bearing race) and the components don't have the right hardnesses, it could be ugly.
I've mentioned this in various forums over the last 20 years, and have never gotten a response from anyone that defended (or could explain) the engineering and/or installation of these adapters.
As you've gotten a car that had the kit installed, you can provide some valuable info.
I have some info on your other questions:
A 3/4" front bar made a noticeable downgrade on my 65 Chrysler when I removed it to repair bushings. So a 3/4" bar with good bushings will help your car noticeably.
If Firmfeel has one that will fit yours, the 1-1/8" size will be even better. (I have one on my 68 Fury)
The PS pump you have involves a rubber bumper down in the bracketry. The bracket at the top has been added by someone.
See this thread, esp post #14, for a good explanation of that engineered bracket setup:
66 New Yorker 440 info
Nellie Newport
New Member
Thanks for the info on the power steering pump. That is now on my long list of squawks to deal with….
Regarding the spindle adapters, I agree that there is cause for concern- I have used this design before in other kits- sometimes they performed flawlessly and sometimes they didnt…..the last time I installed a set from CPP on a ‘50 Chevy, they were not a very close tolerance fit and I was left using the Loctite bearing retainer product to fill the margin. It is still in service, but I pull the wheels every 10k miles or so to check them. So far, so good. I have also seen other cars with adapters that have rotated- not good.
The adapters on my spindles have apparently been on there for about ten years- they have not moved/rotated/cracked/scored/shown any signs of any kind of wear, and they still look brand new. Based upon my inspection, I am going to leave them alone. I presume the reason that these are performing as intended is because this particular kit had good tolerances and good quality control. So, I will keep these.
Used anti-sway bars are quite expensive- I appreciate your review, and if after driving the car again, the body roll is excessive, it is good to know that the 3/4 bar actually makes a difference. I am still searching for an aftermarket bar that will fit…
The entire front end suspension and steering was removed, blasted, inspected, and then painted with SPI epoxy. All my bushings/ball joints/toe rods just showed up, so I’ll be going to town on the front end this weekend.
I’m picking up rear axle today. It’ll have 3.23 gears now, with new bearings, seals, studs (all RH threads!) New bushings are in the leaf springs now, and after I paint the rear axle it’ll go in probably on Monday, then I’ll be fabricating new brake lines. Then oil pan gets replaced.. lots to do.
This is my first time installing screw-in ball joints. Removal was impossible without the special socket, cleaning the exposed threads, soaking in penetrant and then using an impact driver.
Question:
Anyone have any advice/tips for installing the new ones? I was wondering whether it would be a good idea to coat the threads with Loctite bearing retainer before installation- the threads in the arms appear a little bit “flattened”, and I assume that this is somewhat normal?
The used torsion bar bolts & pivots cleaned up very nicely, so that is ready to go. Had to find some new heavy duty washers (McMaster Carr) for the lower arm shaft bushing nuts as mine were pretty messed up (curled). High strength washers I ordered fit perfectly.
The "somewhat flattened" threads are probably intentional, making them "prevailing torque" rather than not. Chevrolet did that on some years of exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe studs/nuts. For some reason, it seemed they varied from normal thread depths using prevailing torque lock nuts to studs with flattened threads and normal nuts. Seemed that every time one of our techs removed an exhaust manifold, we always sold them 2 studs/nuts per manifold in the 1990s.
Keep up the good work,
CBODY67
Keep up the good work,
CBODY67
Torky
Member
In your "spare" time, I would appreciate pix of Fender and VIN tags for your '61 NP. I'm expanding my decoder to '60 & '61 Chryslers and need more examples. Newport data is helpful as all options are shown. The same request is made to other owners of '60-'61 Chryslers, DeSoto's or Imperials.
fury fan
Senior Member
Did your car have a factory swaybar, does it have frame brackets?
If not, now is the time to do it, while it is partially disassembled. My 68 Fury had no factory swaybar, so I made/welded frame frame brackets on while the radiator support, grille and bumper were out for other repairs. Even then, there wasn't a lot of space to get a welding helmet in the right area.
If you could provide some measurements of your car's layout of strut bar angles/distances, I can assist you to see if a C-body bar will fit. If so, you ought to be able to score one of those on a budget.
Frame brackets can be made from angle-cut box tubing without too much fuss.
Those BJ threads look fairly normal to me. Some guys put a few tackwelds between BJ and control arm, but I've never seen the need for it on any of my stuff.
Nellie Newport
New Member
I’ll get this for you this weekend
Nellie Newport
New Member
The car has no sway bar brackets. I have no doubt that the sway bar will improve the driving experience, but I’m getting a little heat about turning the car into a “my project”…..so I need to get the car back on the road for at least a little while, even if it means more work for me in he long run.
I very much appreciate the offer to help find a bar that will work. I need to study up on exactly how the factory bar mounts- I have seen a pic of a used bar with the brackets, but haven’t seen a drawling or pic of it installed on the car yet. Not sure where to measure from for dimensions yet.
Interesting about some guys tacking the ball joints in- I was standing there looking at them wondering what I would do if they didn’t install securely, and tack welds looked like a viable option, although no fun for the next guy to deal with!
we have a wildfire burning close by, so priorities have shifted for the weekend…
Nellie Newport
New Member
Here’s two pics of a ‘61 Newport sway bar I was/am considering that comes with all brackets and linkages…
fury fan
Senior Member
That is roughly the shape of a C-body swaybar, IMO you should grab that while it's available.
Then later you could see how it measures up to a C-body bar, for spread-and-reach of the ends
C-bodies front bars came in 7/8" and 15/16" diameters.
Then later you could see how it measures up to a C-body bar, for spread-and-reach of the ends
C-bodies front bars came in 7/8" and 15/16" diameters.
Nellie Newport
New Member
The one pictured is supposedly 3/4" dia... but that might be incorrect. Thanks for the info.
Dave
fury fan
Senior Member
For a late 50s/early 60s car, 3/4" wouldn't surprise me.
Nellie Newport
New Member
Didn’t get the vin pic yet- son came to visit for a week… hopefully tomorrow.
I’m trying to identify the distributor- it looks to have a magnetic trigger, so not from 1961. I’d like to buy a new cap, but haven’t a clue which Chrysler model and year to use for distributor replacement parts…
Car is almost ready to remove from the jack stands to get a front end alignment- just a couple small items to be taken care of first.
Top of the list now is:
1. Need to order a replacement dist cap & rotor- but don’t have a model & year to give auto parts store.(see pics)
2. Radiator cap- I have a 16 lb cap right now- surely that is too high?
3. Horn wire in column needs replacing (the insulation has crumbled away)- I have scoured the manual and cannot see where the wire terminates at the bottom of the column- wheee does it exit??
Any help appreciated!
Dave
I’m trying to identify the distributor- it looks to have a magnetic trigger, so not from 1961. I’d like to buy a new cap, but haven’t a clue which Chrysler model and year to use for distributor replacement parts…
Car is almost ready to remove from the jack stands to get a front end alignment- just a couple small items to be taken care of first.
Top of the list now is:
1. Need to order a replacement dist cap & rotor- but don’t have a model & year to give auto parts store.(see pics)
2. Radiator cap- I have a 16 lb cap right now- surely that is too high?
3. Horn wire in column needs replacing (the insulation has crumbled away)- I have scoured the manual and cannot see where the wire terminates at the bottom of the column- wheee does it exit??
Any help appreciated!
Dave
Nellie Newport
New Member
PM sent with vin
57fury440
Well-Known Member
I think the way you found the shocks is somewhat responsible for the poor handling. A sway bar is a good idea and should make a nice difference. Back in the sixties I bought a 1960 chevy while I was in the Army. The rear shocks were so bad the car bounced up and down like the one in Uncle Buck. They were the first thing I replaced.
fury fan
Senior Member
Distributor cap and rotor can be from any V8 from perhaps 1966-1989 that have a Chrysler distributor, which is aluminum and has square pockets in the neck.
65-older tend to have a cast-iron Prestolite, which takes a different cap/rotor.
To bypass the possible exceptions, just order for a 1975 V8 car of your choice. (they'll ask you if it has air conditioning, I'm sure
)
A 16lb cap might be a little tough on your cooling system if you have any weak spots.
Higher pressure raises the boiling point, so you can run lower pressure if your engine temp is doing OK.
I don't think lower pressure in the system will lead to water pump cavitation, but maybe somebody can speak to that?
For the horn wire, maybe download a later-year manual from the internet and see if there are clues?
65-older tend to have a cast-iron Prestolite, which takes a different cap/rotor.
To bypass the possible exceptions, just order for a 1975 V8 car of your choice. (they'll ask you if it has air conditioning, I'm sure
)A 16lb cap might be a little tough on your cooling system if you have any weak spots.
Higher pressure raises the boiling point, so you can run lower pressure if your engine temp is doing OK.
I don't think lower pressure in the system will lead to water pump cavitation, but maybe somebody can speak to that?
For the horn wire, maybe download a later-year manual from the internet and see if there are clues?
Nellie Newport
New Member
Thanks. I'll start digging for a diagram that shows the horn wire. Yeah, a 16 lb radiator cap could blow my heater core or sone else, and I don't need that problem right now....Distributor cap and rotor can be from any V8 from perhaps 1966-1989 that have a Chrysler distributor, which is aluminum and has square pockets in the neck.
65-older tend to have a cast-iron Prestolite, which takes a different cap/rotor.
To bypass the possible exceptions, just order for a 1975 V8 car of your choice. (they'll ask you if it has air conditioning, I'm sure
A 16lb cap might be a little tough on your cooling system if you have any weak spots.
Higher pressure raises the boiling point, so you can run lower pressure if your engine temp is doing OK.
I don't think lower pressure in the system will lead to water pump cavitation, but maybe somebody can speak to that?
For the horn wire, maybe download a later-year manual from the internet and see if there are clues?
Car is off the jacks, and I've got to get the pin pressed out of the driveshaft. During tbe 1st attempt, it didn't want to budge. I will have to introduce some heat.
One other thing I can't find in the manual is how to determine the center position for the center link. Right now I am looking at comparing the angles of the idler arm and steering arm, and matching them to center the center link. I'm not sure the steering arm was installed on the steering box at center either...
all 62-78 points/electronic cap and rotor fits. Make sure when you get the rotor it slides on the shaft if it is tight, you got a newer one. Lot of that going on. That is a Mopar electronic dist 72 and up uses a ECU also.
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