Leaf spring replacement

cld

Active Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2013
Messages
359
Reaction score
102
Location
Austin, TX
Started changing out leaf springs and rear shocks early this morning. Got a lot of good intel from 70Nwport's thread about doing the same thing. Thanks very much guys.

However, I already screwed something up: I sheared off one of the lower shock mounts. I PB blasted everything over the course of a week but it didn't resist at all, just twisted off as soon as I pulled on it. Looks like it is integral to the shock plate. Is there any way to just replace that bolt/stud, or do you have to get a whole new plate? What would FCBO gurus recommend?

For today at least, I am thinking I will have to go forward and try to get everything switched out and bolted back together as best I can so I can close the garage, and then try to replace or repair that shock plate some other weekend.

EDIT: rest assured there is not just a floor jack there, especially not with kids around. Also wood blocks and jackstands.

20150614_074228.jpg20150614_080246.jpg

20150614_074228.jpg


20150614_080246.jpg
 
I HATE it when that happens! Drop the Shock Plate and using a Skinny Wheel Grinder flush off stud. Center punch for new bolt hole. Drill hole insert bolt from back of plate. Weld in place.
 
I would have replaced the whole plate BUT if that's the correct bolt..... just swap the bolt.
 
Goddammit. Now I've broken off two studs in the front hanger as well.
 
The front hanger? Wow, never did that... Did you squirting everything down a week ahead of time?
 
And still broke stuff..... then I would then ask if you're turning left in jest and say holy **** that thing must be rusty.
 
Ok folks, I have the springs and new shocks in the car but only assembled, not tightened up for real use. I ended breaking off studs on both front hangers and shock plates. I can limp it somewhere carefully if I need to but it’s not safety drivable any kind of distance or speed.

The bulk of the time I spent on the car was fighting the original U bolt nuts. Good lord those were tough. It took more than two hours just to get the U bolts off – 8 nuts total! I had to fight every inch with a breaker bar (a pipe over a cheap socket handle; I don’t have any ratchets strong enough to use for that except a good size torque wrench, and Big John and Commando1 have warned about that), and each one made an unbelievable racket. It turns out they are self locking (thanks to 68plymouth383 for that insight), and that often times folks cut them off, but I don’t have a cutoff wheel, sawzall, etc. Anyway.

On the front hangers: polara71 mentioned he hadn’t seen that. You know, it’s weird. I PB Blasted everything the week before, and they don’t really look that rusty, and the metal still looks ok, but they didn’t fight too hard. I was using a sh!tty little cheap ratchet with a handle maybe 10” long and they just came apart.

I was a little surprised at the condition of the springs. I've seen other folks show their old ones side by side with new and you can see the flatness of the old. But these look identical when you line them up. Clearly they are a little weak -- the car sits an inch or so higher now -- but the old ones are still better than I expected. I am thinking maybe I should have had them re-arched. Oh well, 20/20 highsight.

20150614_152410.jpg
20150614_123515.jpg
20150614_123613.jpg

20150614_152410.jpg


20150614_123515.jpg


20150614_123613.jpg
 
hmmmm......none of them broken studs look very wet to me.......sure you didnt spray them with lacquer thinner instead of PB by mistake? I'm sorry
 
Back
Top