leaf springs................

[bluefury361]

Dispite having levelers on the hitch and Monroe sensi track, (coil over) rear shocks on the Admiral I was not happy with the stance while hitched to the camper and loaded. It pulled well and felt stable but the rear sag is still to much to avoid scraping on most driveway entrances.

Does anyone have a suggestions for booster springs, or even complete replacement leaf springs....? (1969 Plymouth Fury Custom Suburban).

 

[detmatt]

http://www.springsnthings.com/leaf-spring.htm

 

[Pete Kaczmarski]

St Loius Springs......alot cheaper and same quality.

http://www.saintlouisspring.com/

 

[300rag]

Do you have a side shot of the stance with the trailer connected?

 

[bluefury361]

Do you have a side shot of the stance with the trailer connected?

This shot shows the stance pretty well. The springs are flat, no arch when coupled to the camper.

 

[300rag]

From what I see, I would lower the ball one inch, and then snug up the chains a link or two for starters. It can't hurt to try that and note the difference. Both car and trailer should sit level if adjusted correctly. The rear should come up, and at the same time the front will squat a bit.

 

[commando1]

From what I see, I would lower the ball one inch, and then snug up the chains a link or two for starters. It can't hurt to try that and note the difference. Both car and trailer should sit level if adjusted correctly. The rear should come up, and at the same time the front will squat a bit.

Peter, you're brilliant.
I now see that the trailer is level and the wagon is sagging.
While I can't see dropping the ball height will help with the present springs (same tongue weight therefore the tongue will drop only, car will still sag), putting on suitable springs will then require dropping the ball height to keep the trailer level.
Yes? No?
Or should I post technical diagram using Paint? Lmao..

 

[C Body Bob]

I ran into this problem with my Short bed Rumble Bee truck pulling a enclosed trailer with the Satellite in it. I ended up getting a drop hitch & trailer toung torsion bars. You can sinch them up & when you do it levels quite a bit. And pulled way better. Big semi truck no longer pushed me around.

 

[300rag]

Peter, you're brilliant.
I now see that the trailer is level and the wagon is sagging.
While I can't see dropping the ball height will help with the present springs (same tongue weight therefore the tongue will drop only, car will still sag), putting on suitable springs will then require dropping the ball height to keep the trailer level.
Yes? No?
Or should I post technical diagram using Paint? Lmao..

You are 1/2 correct. That hypothesis would be correct for a non weight distributing system. Lowering the ball and cinching the equalizer chains will result in weight transfer back to the trailer and forward to the front suspension of the tow vehicle, resulting in less weight on the rear suspension. For example, if the current setup has 800 pounds on the rear suspension, and the new setup transfers 100 pounds to each of the other locations, the result will be only 600 pounds on the back of the car, so less load on the springs and tires.

 

[polara71]

http://www.springsnthings.com/leaf-spring.htm

That's the one Matt.....

Regardless of adjustments and helpers I presume the springs are original and weak. Replacing the springs can only help in all handling of the car, not just towing

 

[commando1]

You are 1/2 correct. That hypothesis would be correct for a non weight distributing system. Lowering the ball and cinching the equalizer chains will result in weight transfer back to the trailer and forward to the front suspension of the tow vehicle, resulting in less weight on the rear suspension. For example, if the current setup has 800 pounds on the rear suspension, and the new setup transfers 100 pounds to each of the other locations, the result will be only 600 pounds on the back of the car, so less load on the springs and tires.

I saw the receiver. It's not a weight distribution one.

 

[300rag]

I saw the receiver. It's not a weight distribution one.

Then that is the first thing I would rectify.

 

[bluefury361]

I saw the receiver. It's not a weight distribution one.

Actually it is. The ball support unit and distribution/leveler bars are removed from the receiver when I disconnect.
I don't think raising the ball is going to do much for the vehicle ride height either. Tongue weight won't be effected by enough to level the vehicle. (Besides, this one is non adjustable up & down).

 

[1978 NYB]

In addition to new springs I would consider air shocks. You can pump the air shocks up when towing. The 74-75 Imps and the 76-78 NYB's had the Auto Leveling Suspension which is air shocks with a leveling valve and a compressor.

 

[300rag]

I would still consider an adjustable head, even with new springs. Properly adjusted, you will have both the tow vehicle and the trailer riding level. It is a bit of work to get it right, but once done, you are golden. I have been towing a variety of trailers for over 40 years and have seen way too many combinations on the road set up incorrectly.

 

[bluefury361]

In addition to new springs I would consider air shocks. You can pump the air shocks up when towing. The 74-75 Imps and the 76-78 NYB's had the Auto Leveling Suspension which is air shocks with a leveling valve and a compressor.

Thanks Bob, but air shocks on a mopar is a big NO-NO. The rear upper shock mount/cross member is a weak link and not designed to withstand supporting vehicle weight. I've repaired/replaced several of them back in the day when guys used air shocks to jack up the rear and mount wider tires. The cross member first bends, then will break at the welds.

 

[cantflip]

I don't mean to start anything... but could it be too much weight? In my limited towing experience, I always paid for overloading somewhere down the road in axles and bearings. Even sitting level, the rear would still be asked to do a lot more load carrying. Forgive me... most of the overloaded ones were GM 1/2 tons and have a POS design in the first place.

 

[bluefury361]

I don't mean to start anything... but could it be too much weight? QUOTE]

The trailer weight falls within the towing capacity of the vehicle. The trailer is a 1968 unit and designed to be towed by lesser cars then a full size station wagon. (The original owner towed it with a AMX).
It is a distribution issue that I will have to remedy with a better hitch and either a helper spring or a heavy duty replacement spring set.

I'm trying to avoid the HD leaf springs so that the rear isn't in the air when disconnected, (most of the time), and to retain the ride quality which is excellent. My original springs are in good condition, just need a little help.

 

[polara71]

One of the first improvements I do to all my old stuff I aquire is replace the leaf springs. At 45 years old most of the spring has sprung. A stock height replacement set of six or seven leaves will help out plenty, six should do it. It shouldn't give a rise in the *** and will help support the load . Many times we don't realize how bad things are until we replace a worn out part. Then it becomes evident that it was sorely needed...

Just my opinion Will.....moving on.

 

[300rag]

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/hitch-bar-w-adjustable-ball-mount-12-length/4210







http://www.campingworld.com/shoppin...distributing-hitch-800-lb-tongue-weight/42237