Let's bring the pundits out...

[Ripinator]

In Spring, 2018, two tremors will shake my automotive world. My daughter will graduate from the mega-bucks private university that has made me eat Ramen for four years. And the lease on my 2015 Jeep Renegade will end. When the ground stops trembling from those events, I will have $12K stashed by then and will need a daily driver. A C-body or perhaps a A-body will be that car.

Let's get this much out of the way...

Yeah, I know no upgrade will make it as safe as a '98 Civic. Yeah, I know even a solid example that is aggressively undercoated will be toast before long. Yeah, I'm aware of the reliability challenge for a guy who is a dynamite RN but has zero aptitude and experience with a wrench. But look, everyone...I figure the government is going to eventually make us all sit smiley-faced in self-driving cars or go-karts that go nine years on a battery charge and/or get 432 mpg. I had a ball before my kids started college running about (in succession) in a '64 Dart, a '60 Studebaker Lark, an '82 Volvo 242 GT and a '77 LeBaron. I loathe the Jeep and anything built after 1990. I have seven years to go before retirement (six in Spring, 2018). And I have all of four miles to traverse to the hospital I work at. So, with no further ado, I am tapping your collective experience and wisdom.

I want to find out what would be the first three things you'd do to make it safer and more reliable. I figure on spending enough to get a solid-bodied and solid running number 3 car. Don't mind more doors at all. Probably can't do a 2-door anyway, since that $12K is all I have budgeted to get going, including the initial outlay. I don't get too worked up if originality has gone away like Madonna's virginity. From what I've seen just as a lurker, I already figure on:

1. Converting to disc brakes,
2. Electronic ignition,
3. Better headlghts/3rd brake light (paging Daniel Stern),
4. Boidling out the fuel tank, replacing fuel and brake lines/hoses/etc.
5. Installing shoulder belts, maybe a seat swap for head rests.

You may agree those are essentials.. But what would you consider highly desirable beyond these? If you are so inclined, give me the three things you would do after what I listed. II truly appreciate all responses.

I agree with pretty much all of the suggestions offered by others here in the asylum. However, I think you said you are looking for a "daily driver." If that is so, I would buy a POS ricer to drive every day until it rots away from the salted Michigan roads, and I would buy a C-Body to drive on nice weekends and to car shows. You should be able to easily acquire both cars with your $12K budget.

Oh. . . And one more thing: be sure to replace the rear wheel bearings / races in the C-Body before you drive it very far.

 

[Wollfen]

Oh. . . And one more thing: be sure to replace the rear wheel bearings / races in the C-Body before you drive it very far.

Lol, someone's paranoid about rear wheel bearings.

 

[Carmine]

My best thought for a man with your admitted skill level who wants a good driver... connect with @Carmine and buy whatever he has working good, but needs to move for space.

There are a number of great guys in reasonable distance from you.

Hey I appreciate the shout out and all, but my honest advice is just to skip these cars. If you're looking to approach the lofty safety standards of a '98 Honda Civic (that was a joke, right?) you've chosen a bridge too far. I don't even understand some the ideas presented here... For one thing, third brake lights are so the guy behind you doesn't get rear-ended... which I suppose could affect you... I've never boiled a fuel tank except to pour over the side of a castle onto a mob. I've owned literally dozens of c-bodies and I think I may have replaced one set of rear axle bearings.

The best way for you to get a fix of hipster-ironic-big-old-car-fun would be anything from an '80s to '96 Lincoln Town Car, or perhaps an 85-ish to '92 Mark VII. On the GM side I'd look at Buick Roadmasters or Cadillac Broughams. They'll all have EFI systems that are relatively simple and easy for you (or a tech) to work on. Airbags, good seatbelts, some will have ABS. All will have 3rd brake lights. There are zillions of them still in local salvage yards. They all have dedicated internet followings. Join their boards and peruse their classifieds to find a loved example form the south, west or southwest. Half of your $12k will get you an excellent car.

I wouldn't buy from these guys because they're our local version of Lakeland Lash, but why not go check this car out for funsies?

1992 Lincoln Other TWO DOOR | eBay

or this:

1993 Lincoln Town Car Jack Nicklaus Edition | eBay

on the GM side:

1991 Cadillac Other Brougham | eBay

 

[drpreposterous]

Oh yeah, and shoulder harness? Pffft.

I do like the idea of an Imp ride! Who said "harness?" I am looking for shoulder belt.

 

[drpreposterous]

I am grateful for all the input, but I think some of you are missing out on what I said. I'm NOT kidding myself that I'll duplicate the safety/reliability/mpg of a '98 Civic. Just looking for suggestions to make a MOPAR a decent daily. Not interested in GM or Fomoco boats. I grew up with Mopar. Not going to get a ricer winter beater. My life has room for only one vehicle. Perhaps I've jumped off the deep end, but I'm a determined swimmer.
Interested in all feedback!

 

[detmatt]

I do like the idea of an Imp ride! Who said "harness?" I am looking for shoulder belt.

Just give me a little notice.

 

[My three 67 Polaras]

Oh. . . And one more thing: be sure to replace the rear wheel bearings / races in the C-Body before you drive it very far.

Agreed. The grease inside of the sealed rear wheel bearings dries out. If you do nothing but local driving in short hops, you might not notice a problem. However, get it out on the highway away from home, and it could leave you in a lurch.

When I bought my 67 Polara 4 dr, I had a 400 mile drive home, and one rear wheel bearing was toast. This on a well-kept car with under 90k miles.

They are not easily removed from the axle shafts. You will end up working like a surgeon for a couple of hours per side, gradually trimming off remnants of the outer casing, the bearings themseleves, and the inner sleeve with a cutoff wheel from the axle shafts. Don't forget to measure how far they are pressed onto the shafts before you start removing them.

 

[73Coupe]

I didn't know the rear axle bearings were an "item". I thought they'd be bathed in gear oil...I still assume mine are original, 120k miles, been driving the hell out of it, no issues.

What are the first symptoms of one going bad? Grinding noise, smoke, or fire?

Other than that, to "make" my 73 into a daily driver, had to do a ton of work after purchasing a car that was sold as "good to go anywhere". After 40 years, everything is shot, pretty much. Work still in progress while driving:

New shocks
front end rebuild
gas tank replaced, lines and vapor system
transmission and u-joints
carb rebuild
All engine oil gaskets, intake gasket,
wiring issues
ps pump
radiator and all hoses
fan clutch
water pump
Gear oil change
entire brake system rebuild
spark plugs
vacuum lines
headlights
exhaust system replace
AC system complete overhaul

the list goes on...ugh!

 

[rags]

do it once. get an imperial. you want safety, have faith in God. if He save you nothing else will.

 

[My three 67 Polaras]

I didn't know the rear axle bearings were an "item". I thought they'd be bathed in gear oil...I still assume mine are original, 120k miles, been driving the hell out of it, no issues.

My 67 Polara had sealed rear bearings, as well as many other vehicles of the era (my '67 and 72 F100's with 9" diff both had them).

A humming harmonic vibration showed up when driving; something in between a sabre saw cutting 3/16" plywood and an electric engraver. It would show up in the dash especially; where things are not screwed down as thoroughly. Duct work and the glove box door/latch comes to mind. It was intermittent and most likely would occur at highway speed.

The aftermarket seems to now have commonly available wet bearings listed. I replaced mine back in 2003 and that was not an option I remember. Autobonz still lists the sealed bearing, along with a wet bearing now.

I am not sure the exact procedure for retrofitting them. I would imagine the wheel seals need reconfigured. The sealed bearing had seals on the inboard side of the bearing. Follow manufacturer instructions or seek application engineer assistance from the company you are buying from.

I am not sure on the 1973 model year, or when and if they changed over at the OEM level.