Medina, a 1971 T-code Monaco

Frill #2, the seat hinge covers (with mounting brackets) for my manual seats and the chrome bases for all four armrests, reached Rockford today. Thanks to Bob at ABC Moparts for very nice repops, and to @71Polara383 for braving the late-season snow to take delivery!

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Necessity #1, the driver-window upstop, has arrived. Thanks to @saforwardlook for helping me find this stop for a great price. Many thanks in advance to @71Polara383, who identified the window stop problem and who will be installing the new NOS one!

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Anyone who uses Partsvoice will easily find him, or is that letting another little secret out? Guys like Arizona Parts (Marty) and Len could also use the income to keep being available from which to source hard to find parts. I personally don't mind helping fellow mopar guys make their cars better. Everything isn't all about me..........................
 
The rain went away and we got some decent weather today. Medina met all of her relatives today while I was cleaning up the shop.

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Dropped by Wyatt's shop today. He had a surprise for me :)

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Michel, the more I see of Medina (thanks to 71Polara383's photography), the more I believe you got a pretty good deal when you bought her! Enjoy her... she's a beauty!
 
Thanks a lot, Frank! Well, @71Polara383 took out the carb today and shipped it to @Dana's shop for a rebuild. Here are some of the photos he took -- can't wait to see it cleaned up and rebuilt! Meanwhile, Wyatt has plopped one of his own '71 AVS so that the engine does not have a gaping hole on top (and so that the car can still move). Bonus news: his carb is in good working condition!

PS: if anyone sees, in the photos below, anything that needs fixing, please let me know. As well, is the dirt on top of the block best removed by vacuuming -- and should I use a special type of vac?

PPS: behind the engine, on the firewall, one can see the goop that had seeped from the aftermarket voltage regulator — which Wyatt replaced with a proper unit a couple of months back.

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and should I use a special type of vac?
only if your concerned about hantavirus. still think the deal you made on that small block roadster was the cats ***. that was the way to go. seriously, enjoy. also, 've never met Wyatt and never will, but i'll thank him just the same for helping you out. that's cool.
 
Well, two of the needed fixes are well on their way. The first is in the engine bay.

--> Big thanks to @Dana, who got Medina's carb back in tip top shape: @71Polara383 tells me that it looks (and acts) just like new. Dave kindly sent me pics he took before, during, and after restoration. Here goes, for visual pleasure. Call me impressed!

I. Before:

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II. After:

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III. Back on the car:

After installing it, Wyatt is now correcting the advance (more precisely, he's undoing prior changes made to compensate for the dirt). Here is Medina with her carb back on — thanks a real lot to Wyatt!

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The second fix is in the driver’s door. @71Polara383 has replaced the broken door stop with the one I bought from Len Dawson.

I. Old (broken as diagnosed by Wyatt) and new ones:

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II. Here is the door during and after the repair. Thought I’d post the first pic below so that everyone can judge for himself (i) the condition of the metal and (ii) the burgundy paint job over the original GY9. As an aside, one can see Monacucamonga in the background.

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Quick update on Medina:

(i) The tires that came with the car when I bought it looked good but were of undetermined vintage. I ordered Hankook Optimo H724 whitewall tires yesterday from, and they should be mounted and balanced later this week by, Discount Tires of Rockford, IL. Following consistent recommendations from @saforwardlook and @71Polara383, I decided to upsize slightly and ordered 235/75R15. I would have preferred a 70 profile, as the latter would have left the speedometer readings unaffected, but AFAIK no 70-profile tire is available from any brand with white walls.

(Note: these tires have been discontinued, Get your Hankook Optimo H724 WW tires while you can!)

(ii) I also ordered new tie rod ends from Summit Racing: they will be delivered today to @71Polara383 this afternoon for installation later this week. They were listed full price this weekend ($17.99 each for inner and outer ends) but they are 10% off this week ($16.19).
 
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Would you have changed the sleeves as well, or more parts while at it?

PS: on the matter of tires, I concede that the speedometer difference will not be huge (vs. 225/75 R15).

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With the miles I would change all I could, especially if driving it.

Granted, my convertible had 130000 but I changed all I could since I push it harder than I should when out .
 
I ordered Hankook Optimo H724 whitewall tires yesterday
I've had those tires on my Monaco for a few years and really like them. I should probably find replacements for the tires on the Polara as well since they are past their best before date even with plenty of tread.
 
OK, further update. Wyatt is almost done getting the car ready for Volo. In the past few days, he has found the time to:

1. replace the valve cover gaskets. He let the stuff cure over the course of a couple of days, for good measure, taking advantage of the fact that the alternator was off (see item 3 below) and the car was not being driven.

2. take the steering apart to replace the upper input shaft seal (the steering box was leaking, and the educated guess is that this seal was responsible) and to check the steering coupler. @saforwardlook was (as he has been throughout this sprucing up process) most generous with his help -- thanks to him, we got the special tool to change that seal. Here is the new seal, ready to go in:

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3. check, while the steering column was out...

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...the steering coupler. Discussions with @saforwadlook were again very helpful, teaching me a lot about the coupler. FCBO threads on the topic prior to talking with Steve had me somewhat more up to speed, so thanks for the contributors.

For the time being, I decided to not change my original coupler as the rubber is not perfect anymore but seems to have some life left. Here are a couple pics, so that everyone can chime in with their opinions regarding this decision:

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Truth be told, if the replacement part had been available this week, I'd have changed it. But, the necessary part for a proper replacement won't be available for 2 weeks, so we did not. BTW, it will be a Land Rover NTC3486, ordered from Dave at Atlantic British and modified by a friend as explained in this thread. Note that the OEM part is not available anymore from Land Rover, but the one sold by AB is made by a current OEM supplier to LR. It is 4 times the cost of some reproduction pieces I have seen, but I was willing to pay the $20 premium for it based on credibly positive reviews of that specific part and of that merchant.

4. replace the alternator. The alternator on the car when I got her was incorrect -- wrong year, wrong brackets, and as a result wrong belt length. Wrong output, too, it seems as the voltage regulator got to leaking. Finding a proper, round back, two-field-terminals, 45-amp unit took way, WAY more effort than expected as units now on the market typically output 90 amps (and I had no intention of beefing up the wiring or bypassing anything). I searched far and wide, but on the advice of @saforwardlook I decided to stick to what was specced for the car. I finally found the right one through Neal at Obsolete Parts in Cincinnati, OH. That one-man shop is a solid old-fashioned (paper, phone, USPS) operation: Neal knew what he was talking about, was great to talk with, and a remanufactured alternator was delivered to Rockford in less than 2 days. Call me happy.

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Medina had the correct brackets already. Whoever installed the incorrect alternator just put the other ones over the correct ones. So, Wyatt installed it this afternoon, here is a picture after (for a picture of the previous incorrect setup, see here).

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