73Coupe
Senior Member
When I finally do mine, I was planning on a brush-on coat of por-15 under the new vinyl.
Meet Buttercup, a 1972 New Yorker Brougham 2-door Hardtop
- Thread starter ayilar
- Start date
I wouldn't do POR-15.
A couple reasons, first is I'll bet the adhesive for the vinyl won't stick. Second is that POR-15 really needs a rough "toothy" surface, like rust for it to stick. I've seen where it was painted on clean surfaces and peeled. Most of that is poor prep, I'm sure, but still, it really sticks well to rough surfaces.
BTW, I really like POR-15, so I'm not knocking it, just saying that it might not be right for this application.
if it were me, i would probably just put some rust convertor on the rough spots and re-cover it.
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
Since I don't follow anyone on this board I tend to miss a lot. Belated congratulations on adding such a nice car to your fleet. Just curious, were you able to find an exact fabric match in a timely fashion for the front seat re upholstery?
To the question: Repainting the whole top, as opposed to just the rust area and the rear window surround - overkill or a good insurance?
Go for the overkill. You have the great documentation of the factory roof, complete with PICs, so why not go the extra mile? This car is a runner (109K+), not a garage queen. My thoughts this is appropriate insurance - IMHO
Go for the overkill. You have the great documentation of the factory roof, complete with PICs, so why not go the extra mile? This car is a runner (109K+), not a garage queen. My thoughts this is appropriate insurance - IMHO
No idea.
Not yet. My thinking at this stage is to get the correct material and have it correctly reproduced by an upholsterer/top specialist. @73Coupe has now struck out twice with SMS, so I am thinking of getting the material from them and hiring someone to do it properly.
Meanwhile, repair work is progressing apace on the top. @71Polara383 has sent me the pictures below. The good news is that the rust we have found is limited to the lower left corner of the rear window and to a few spots due to rust out of the moulding/trim clips. Here are some photos of the main rust area right after pulling the vinyl, after cleaning before repair, and during repair. Those small metal patches aren't welded into the corner yet, but I like those handmade patches from 73NYB metal. Once welded, the should blend in completely:
Here is another issue that Wyatt is now fixing. It seems it rusted right at the clips under the back window. Wyatt needs to whip up a few more patches for the rust around the clips:
The clips are indeed in poor shape, which was to be expected:
Thanks to @Analog Kid , who identified and vouched for a source on eBay, I have ordered the correct large clips (12 needed), small clips (ditto), and screws.
Last edited:
buttercup from the power puff girls cartoon.
List of The Powerpuff Girls characters - Wikipedia
List of The Powerpuff Girls characters - Wikipedia
FK3 Sport Fury
Hoser in a toque
Just found this thread and wow,that is one sweet 72 NYer.Congrats on a great score.
On another note,6 pages in and no one has posted this? You guys are letting me down.
On another note,6 pages in and no one has posted this? You guys are letting me down.
That vinyl pattern (Levant) should be easier to find than some others so that you can get the top made. Hard to find that expertise nowadays. Last top I had replaced, I asked around at a place that did boats...the owner used to do dozens of tops in the 70's. He enjoyed my project and said it took him back to when he was young.
Looks like your top is "buckskin"...
Looks like your top is "buckskin"...
Thank you for the suggestion. Unfortunately, I believe that the correct grain is "Boar" (not "Levant") as per this thread.
Last edited:
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
More updates on the top restoration.
1. the metal work on the rust repair is finished, thanks to @71Polara383. It seems that the trim doesn't fit the corner as tightly as it should on the driver's side as it does the passenger's side. The pictures I had from before the top came off show that this issue existed before the repair. That's likely why it rotted in one corner and not in the other: there was a pocket. Wyatt is therefore making an adjustment for a better fit. Here are a couple of pics showing the progress.
2. I have received material samples from SMS. I need to see them side-by-side with the original materials, but from the pics I have they seem to be matches. Assuming all is good, my plan is to order the vinyls (seats and top) from SMS and to have the shop recommended by @david hill do the cutting/sewing/fitting work, while ordering a headliner from SMS. There is no rush replacing the latter, so even if they tae their own sweet time that'll be OK.
Note, in the photos below, the slightly greenish tint to the V1Y vinyl, which I thought was discoloration on Buttercup but apparently is correct. Pic #1 is in the shade, pic #2 is in the sun.
3. To remove the roof rails, Wyatt had to remove the weatherstrip. I probably will replace them (please make suggestions for replacement: The discussion in this thread shows what @schwarzsurfer and i have been up to).
Here are photos of the removal process:
First is weather strip
Second is the weather strip channel
Third is the window channel with drips rails.
Fourth is the bare channel.
1. the metal work on the rust repair is finished, thanks to @71Polara383. It seems that the trim doesn't fit the corner as tightly as it should on the driver's side as it does the passenger's side. The pictures I had from before the top came off show that this issue existed before the repair. That's likely why it rotted in one corner and not in the other: there was a pocket. Wyatt is therefore making an adjustment for a better fit. Here are a couple of pics showing the progress.
2. I have received material samples from SMS. I need to see them side-by-side with the original materials, but from the pics I have they seem to be matches. Assuming all is good, my plan is to order the vinyls (seats and top) from SMS and to have the shop recommended by @david hill do the cutting/sewing/fitting work, while ordering a headliner from SMS. There is no rush replacing the latter, so even if they tae their own sweet time that'll be OK.
Note, in the photos below, the slightly greenish tint to the V1Y vinyl, which I thought was discoloration on Buttercup but apparently is correct. Pic #1 is in the shade, pic #2 is in the sun.
3. To remove the roof rails, Wyatt had to remove the weatherstrip. I probably will replace them (please make suggestions for replacement: The discussion in this thread shows what @schwarzsurfer and i have been up to).
Here are photos of the removal process:
First is weather strip
Second is the weather strip channel
Third is the window channel with drips rails.
Fourth is the bare channel.
Last edited:
73Coupe
Senior Member
Nice progress and detailed photos. I am taking notes while waiting for SMS.
Was the vinyl top tucked under the drip rail....is that why you are removing that....or just for paint? On my 73, it looks like the vinyl stops short of the drip, but that might be because it's shrunk....hard to tell.
If Soft-Seal comes through for you, I might pick up a pair of roof rail 'strip just to have on hand.
That reminds me, QQE was working on catwhiskers for me; I need to check in with them and will let you know in case those are on your list.
Was the vinyl top tucked under the drip rail....is that why you are removing that....or just for paint? On my 73, it looks like the vinyl stops short of the drip, but that might be because it's shrunk....hard to tell.
If Soft-Seal comes through for you, I might pick up a pair of roof rail 'strip just to have on hand.
That reminds me, QQE was working on catwhiskers for me; I need to check in with them and will let you know in case those are on your list.
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
Usually the Vinyl wraps around the drip rail, and the trim locks it down and holds it in place.
When a vinyl roof is replaced in the real world, many who do such work short cut corners and don't tuck the vinyl under the rails, which leads to a short service life. Doing it right takes a lot more work and $$ but there is no shortcut for doing it right in our cases where we want our cars to look good well into the future.
Similar threads
- Locked
