Mopar electronic conversion epic fail.

[Dsertdog]

CBODY6

I had a whole bunch of that, so I'm going through my connections and making sure they're clean and tight.
I also noticed that some of the original conversions used a 1.25 ohm resistor instead of a 1.7. I may try that as well.

Might as well open up the FSM and read the wiring diagrams. I mean the install was so easy and the instructions were concise.
I knew something was amiss when I first installed everything and didn't have 10 volts from coil+ to ground.

 

[Clover]

I had a whole bunch of that, so I'm going through my connections and making sure they're clean and tight.
I also noticed that some of the original conversions used a 1.25 ohm resistor instead of a 1.7. I may try that as well.

Might as well open up the FSM and read the wiring diagrams. I mean the install was so easy and the instructions were concise.
I knew something was amiss when I first installed everything and didn't have 10 volts from coil+ to ground.

Assuming that the wiring harness is good, you’re using an electronic-ignition coil and a known-good ECU and you’re running a hot wire to the positive side of the coil, it pretty much has to be the distributor pickup.

 

[Toolmanmike]

Last month I purchased a Mopar electronic ignition conversion package from a very reputable seller. It is NOT a proform kit.

I installed it according to the very good instructions and the car wouldn't fire.|

It would fire right back up when I reinstalled the points distributor.

On a whim I bought a spare box, had both ECUs tested and bother were good. The seller did his level best to try and help me, but even he is stumped, saying it's some kind of weird wiring problem. Other than the ammeter bypass and a tach, the wiring is stock
.
I can offer all kinds of voltages and such, but I have tested everything for continuity and every wire checks out.

Here's what is strange. With the points distributor installed and the engine running, I have 10.1 volts between the coil positive terminal and ground.

When I plug in the ECU and the electronic distributor, the best I can get is about 7.5 volts at those terminals. Usually, it's about 6 volts. Not enough to run car.
I finally managed to start the car, but it ran poorly...rich and dank exhaust and it set the CO monitor off in the furnace room. Voltage at coil+ to ground was almost 8 then dropped. Car still ran but wouldn't restart after shut off.

Put the points distributor back in and she pops right off.

Help? Please?

1966 Polara 383

You could use @halifaxhops electronic ignition book. [SOLD] - electronic ign Trouble shooting book It simplifies the system for diagnostics.

 

[Gerald Morris]

You could use @halifaxhops electronic ignition book. [SOLD] - electronic ign Trouble shooting book It simplifies the system for diagnostics.

THIS IS EXCELLENT ADVICE!!! The time SAVED is WELL WORTH the paltry investment. Me, I like breaker points, as I can twiddle them into life and use old Uncle tony type hacks and voodoo on them. Breaker points make a rugged system. Still, I dig the performance I get from my /6 225 w the conversion I used.

I would strongly consider looking up a mid-1970s FSM for specs on electronic ignitions, even with the HiRev unit. Those are made off the Old Factory Spec I beleive. Worth a look. Mind you, old wiring issues can emerge when doing a conversion such as you've done. I ran a bonding jumper from the battery negative to the bond screw on my ECR too, just to be as sure as I could about that ground.

Don't be surprised if you wind up making yourself a new ignition harness. I rather prefer to do so if anything gets wonky in an old one.

 

[BakonBittz]

When I installed my electronic ignition I mistakenly connected to the lower voltage side of the ballast resistor and my control box + car were not happy. It would start strong and then barely idle, load up with fuel, and die with any throttle.
It obviously needed to be connected to the 12 volt side, the original wiring/ignition switch takes care of running less voltage to the coil after starting. Sounds simple but I was pulling my hair out checking timing and looking for issues when the ECU was only getting ~8 volts after releasing the key.

Just something to check for, let us know the issue when you find it!

Edit: I’m sure you know but make sure to set timing after you get the new electronic ignition in: I went from 6.5° initial and a sloppy 28° of advance on my old ignition to 20° initial and 14° of advance for a total of 34° on the new electronic ignition. Starts a with less fuss and seems to make better use of today’s gas, still have to hook up an AFR guage and really get after it but it really woke up my tired 440. But I suppose any new ignition components after 35 years would take care and happy new year

 

[dodtorcito]

Ballast resistor would only come into play after the car starts as it's bypassed for starting.

This is a bit of a shot in the dark, but easy enough to check. The resistance of the pickup coil in the distributor should be between 150 and 900 ohms. Basically check the resistance between the the two wires to the distributor. Also check the air gap of the reluctor to the coil pickup.

I agree.
Also check the engine block battery ground with an ANALOG meter, not digital. I had one time a bad/insuficient contact between the cable and engine bock not detected with the digital meter. The car started some times and sometimes didn´t. I did see a difference of 0.5-1V between battery post and engine block around the cable bolt correction. Removed, filled and start washer installed and same volts as battery terminals, and the problem went away.

 

[USSMOPAR]

Please post the instructions that were sent
Show us pics of the wiring
Is the module properly grounded?
Was it checked with an ohm meter?

With the key "on" the voltage at the ballast resistor input should be the same as the measured battery voltage

the output voltage of the ballast resistor should be the same voltage at the coil

Battery needs to be 12.8v min
Measure votages with the points distributor installed

With the wiring, module and distributor installed remove the ignition module connector only and see if the voltages change.

If your wiring / voltages are correct the module is bad. I can guess the "vendor"

 

[Toolmanmike]

Last month I purchased a Mopar electronic ignition conversion package from a very reputable seller. It is NOT a proform kit.

I installed it according to the very good instructions and the car wouldn't fire.|

It would fire right back up when I reinstalled the points distributor.

On a whim I bought a spare box, had both ECUs tested and bother were good. The seller did his level best to try and help me, but even he is stumped, saying it's some kind of weird wiring problem. Other than the ammeter bypass and a tach, the wiring is stock
.
I can offer all kinds of voltages and such, but I have tested everything for continuity and every wire checks out.

Here's what is strange. With the points distributor installed and the engine running, I have 10.1 volts between the coil positive terminal and ground.

When I plug in the ECU and the electronic distributor, the best I can get is about 7.5 volts at those terminals. Usually, it's about 6 volts. Not enough to run car.
I finally managed to start the car, but it ran poorly...rich and dank exhaust and it set the CO monitor off in the furnace room. Voltage at coil+ to ground was almost 8 then dropped. Car still ran but wouldn't restart after shut off.

Put the points distributor back in and she pops right off.

Help? Please?

1966 Polara 383

Did you tie the crank and run wires together? If you don't get full battery voltage while cranking, You won't have spark to start. Jumper the + side of the ballast to battery positive and see if it starts. Check your install instructions carefully. What is the resistance reading of your ballast resistor. Should be around .8.

 

[Dsertdog]

Assuming that the wiring harness is good, you’re using an electronic-ignition coil and a known-good ECU and you’re running a hot wire to the positive side of the coil, it pretty much has to be the distributor pickup.

With the vendor on the phone, I checked the pickup coil resistance, and it was well within specs. It also generated a signal when I spun it with the plug hooked up to the meter.
It also generated a weak spark at the coil when the distributor was hooked up and spun. Until it didn't.
I have voltage problem in the start or run circuit wiring.

 

[Dsertdog]

Please post the instructions that were sent
Show us pics of the wiring
Is the module properly grounded?
Was it checked with an ohm meter?

With the key "on" the voltage at the ballast resistor input should be the same as the measured battery voltage

the output voltage of the ballast resistor should be the same voltage at the coil

Battery needs to be 12.8v min
Measure votages with the points distributor installed

With the wiring, module and distributor installed remove the ignition module connector only and see if the voltages change.

If your wiring / voltages are correct the module is bad. I can guess the "vendor"

These questions were asked in the first three posts. I also posted a pic of my ground system. You can check there. Modules have been tested locally and are good. Battery terminals are clean. Instructions are the same as on the internet.
I do have some suspect wiring, but battery is good.

 

[Dsertdog]

Did you tie the crank and run wires together? If you don't get full battery voltage while cranking, You won't have spark to start. Jumper the + side of the ballast to battery positive and see if it starts. Check your install instructions carefully. What is the resistance reading of your ballast resistor. Should be around .8.

Jumping + battery terminal to coil + didn't work.
Ballast resistor supplied with kit is 1.7 ohms. Stock is 1.8
Earlier DC kits use a 1.25 resistor.