All five rims have matching stamps
B
K 1
0
K2
0
12
3055
Anyone care to break that down for me?
B
K 1
0
K2
0
12
3055
Anyone care to break that down for me?
Mrs. Billet
- Thread starter cuda hunter
- Start date
The car is finally getting some Hancook Optimo H735 Kinergy ST's tomorrow.
Then I am installing a remanufactured master cylinder so I can take the original master cylinder off of the car for a rebuild. I'm hopfully getting a rebuild kit from @mobileparts if he has any left. I might get lucky enough for the last one.
At least this way I can drive the car and maybe put it in my local show this summer.
Obviously the original is going back on the car.
Then I am installing a remanufactured master cylinder so I can take the original master cylinder off of the car for a rebuild. I'm hopfully getting a rebuild kit from @mobileparts if he has any left. I might get lucky enough for the last one.
At least this way I can drive the car and maybe put it in my local show this summer.
Obviously the original is going back on the car.
Today the old girl hit the ground again. New shoes.
I installed a new master cylinder today as well.
Used the power bleeder and it worked out great!
View attachment 467619
I installed a new master cylinder today as well.
Used the power bleeder and it worked out great!
View attachment 467619
Can anyone confirm the originality of the power booster?
That's a lot of numbers, are there unreadable numbers there?
That's a lot of numbers, are there unreadable numbers there?
New tires on.
Trunk emptied but not detailed yet.
Parts put in trunk for storage.
Car put up into storage until after carlisle.
Trunk emptied but not detailed yet.
Parts put in trunk for storage.
Car put up into storage until after carlisle.
My own little pot of gold.
Y4
Y4
I took her out for her first ride that was more than a few miles in town. Drove about 20 miles at highway speeds. She cruises smooth as can be at 80.
When I was returning to town and slowing down the HOT idiot light comes on.I head on home and park her, get out and check everything before I turn it off. Running fine with no antifreeze anywhere. Shut her off and she starts spitting antifreeze from the overflow hose onto the ground. A good bit, I can here it boiling it out with lots of pressure.
Can anyone suggest my next move?
Flush the radiator with a hose?
remove radiator and take it to a pro shop for a flushing?
Have it recored?
When I was returning to town and slowing down the HOT idiot light comes on.I head on home and park her, get out and check everything before I turn it off. Running fine with no antifreeze anywhere. Shut her off and she starts spitting antifreeze from the overflow hose onto the ground. A good bit, I can here it boiling it out with lots of pressure.
Can anyone suggest my next move?
Flush the radiator with a hose?
remove radiator and take it to a pro shop for a flushing?
Have it recored?
It's going to rain so I had to put her back up into storage.
I filled the radiator back up with antifreeze and water. It was maybe half a gallon low. I started it and drove it about a block and she is still spewing stuff out of the overflow tube onto the ground.
I filled the radiator back up with antifreeze and water. It was maybe half a gallon low. I started it and drove it about a block and she is still spewing stuff out of the overflow tube onto the ground.
Mr C
Senior Member
It could be that the rad is fine. You need to diagnose the cooling system front to back.
One of those temperature guns is great for it. point it around when the car is up to temp to see what is going on (thermostat opening).
Things to verify before just tearing things apart.:
Coolant level cold- colour (rusty?)/ contamination(I presume you've done this, being a car guy);
Clutch fan operation;
Rad shroud/ underhood seals all present to ensure proper air flow being directed through the rad;
Rad cap holding pressure;
Water pump inspected.
Frost plugs (rusty? leaky?)
Low mileage cars that sat for long periods of time can have blocks that silt up with rust/ sludgy deposits from ancient coolant or stop leak...restricts flow (hopefully the head passaged are not clogged) and can lead to aggravating overheat issues even after re-coring/ replacing the rad.
A methodical soup-to-nuts approach works best.
If things persist, it could also be lean condition/ timing that need investigation.
One of those temperature guns is great for it. point it around when the car is up to temp to see what is going on (thermostat opening).
Things to verify before just tearing things apart.:
Coolant level cold- colour (rusty?)/ contamination(I presume you've done this, being a car guy);
Clutch fan operation;
Rad shroud/ underhood seals all present to ensure proper air flow being directed through the rad;
Rad cap holding pressure;
Water pump inspected.
Frost plugs (rusty? leaky?)
Low mileage cars that sat for long periods of time can have blocks that silt up with rust/ sludgy deposits from ancient coolant or stop leak...restricts flow (hopefully the head passaged are not clogged) and can lead to aggravating overheat issues even after re-coring/ replacing the rad.
A methodical soup-to-nuts approach works best.
If things persist, it could also be lean condition/ timing that need investigation.
Coolant color was fine. No odd colors, just green and water.
Shroud is installed with no odd gaps.
Seals are all good and present.
Radiator cap does not appear to be releasing any pressure, no moisture at cap.
Not positive how to test the clutch fan.
Not sure how to inspect the water pump as every one I have replaced was weaping through the little hole on the bottom.
Unfamiliar with frost plugs. What might those be?
I need to pick up one of those heat guns and try that out.
I'll have to go through the whole system then and try to figure out if there is a blockage.
Does flushing the radiator with a hose do any good? open the bottom of the radiator and stick a hose up top and let it run for an hour or so. I know it's not pressurized so perhaps it doesn't do that much for it.
Shroud is installed with no odd gaps.
Seals are all good and present.
Radiator cap does not appear to be releasing any pressure, no moisture at cap.
Not positive how to test the clutch fan.
Not sure how to inspect the water pump as every one I have replaced was weaping through the little hole on the bottom.
Unfamiliar with frost plugs. What might those be?
I need to pick up one of those heat guns and try that out.
I'll have to go through the whole system then and try to figure out if there is a blockage.
Does flushing the radiator with a hose do any good? open the bottom of the radiator and stick a hose up top and let it run for an hour or so. I know it's not pressurized so perhaps it doesn't do that much for it.
Mr C
Senior Member
Oh...I forgot to mention hoses...make sure they are not collapsing. Lower hose should have a spring in it.
When you looked down the into the rad core when you topped things up, how did the passages look? Nice and clear, or clogged up/ calcified?
Rotting frost (freeze) plugs are often an indicator that things have silted up. Frost plugs are along in the engine castings (heads/ block). Look just above the oil pan flange...see pic (note the engine is upside down in the pic).
When you looked down the into the rad core when you topped things up, how did the passages look? Nice and clear, or clogged up/ calcified?
Rotting frost (freeze) plugs are often an indicator that things have silted up. Frost plugs are along in the engine castings (heads/ block). Look just above the oil pan flange...see pic (note the engine is upside down in the pic).
OH, of course, freeze plugs. duh. I'll look, but with everything being super clean and no rust on anything I doubt there will be any rust, but I will check for sure.
Looking into the radiator there is no sign of residue or rust or anything. Very clean.
Looking into the radiator there is no sign of residue or rust or anything. Very clean.
So, had a chance to get her back out for a few hours. Wanted to stabilize the gas and work it through the fuel system.
Since everything else checks out as good, I took the radiator cap off while it was cold. Let the car warm up.
Bubbles in the radiator. I believe that means I have a bad head gasket. I have not purchased the coolant dye tester, yet. I'm kind of assuming that since there are actual bubbles that are constant in the radiator cap area that this is indeed a bad head gasket.
Can anyone confirm this? Or should I spend and extra 50 bucks for the dye test.
If it's not a head gasket, what else would cause constant bubbles in the radiator?
Since everything else checks out as good, I took the radiator cap off while it was cold. Let the car warm up.
Bubbles in the radiator. I believe that means I have a bad head gasket. I have not purchased the coolant dye tester, yet. I'm kind of assuming that since there are actual bubbles that are constant in the radiator cap area that this is indeed a bad head gasket.
Can anyone confirm this? Or should I spend and extra 50 bucks for the dye test.
If it's not a head gasket, what else would cause constant bubbles in the radiator?
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
They have a combustion gas detector that they will usually rent at AZ, advance, o-o-o'rieley's, got that stuck in your head now, your welcome.
I will ask them. Thanks.
I just wanted to post a few pictures of the vinyl roof. This vinyl is uncleaned with the exception of the grandson who I believe power washed it once according to a few really clean swirls on the vinyl. In the garage for many years. It has yet to be cleaned, but I have the products to clean it, just not the time yet. It's out of the sun though.
I will post updated pictures when I eventually clean it.
I will post updated pictures when I eventually clean it.
I took Mrs Billet out for it's first drive this year yesterday. She started right up with only a few cranks and a few light pumps.
She just drives around so nice and smooth. Really a pleasure to drive compared to most of my other cars.
I snagged the plates off of Mrs Billet and put them on a satellite custom that I purchased recently to drive it around after driving her.
Cool car, but just doesn't give me the feeling that the newport does. The B body is more like my E body whereas the C body feels like a couch.
This summer, I have got to figure out the problem with the head gaskets or cylinder head.
If I can get that figured out and put some hundreds of miles on her I might be able to drive her to carlisle.
Probably not, but I have to dream first before things become a reality.
She just drives around so nice and smooth. Really a pleasure to drive compared to most of my other cars.
I snagged the plates off of Mrs Billet and put them on a satellite custom that I purchased recently to drive it around after driving her.
Cool car, but just doesn't give me the feeling that the newport does. The B body is more like my E body whereas the C body feels like a couch.
This summer, I have got to figure out the problem with the head gaskets or cylinder head.
If I can get that figured out and put some hundreds of miles on her I might be able to drive her to carlisle.
Probably not, but I have to dream first before things become a reality.
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