My 440 Build

[70bigblockdodge]

Rule of thumb is .004 per inch of bore size. So at essentially 4 and a 1/3 inches would put you at .017 something always error up/plus so .018 would be min., second ring should have a tad .001-.002 above that to release any pressure trapped in between top and second. if you go over that numbers don't sweat it my 400 is at .022 and it does not use and oil or chug out the breather

 

[jstaples2]

Question about the crank sprocket... Is there a special tool or something to get this onto the crank? This looks like a press-fit type of setup. And I certainly can't get it all the way back onto the crank with my bare hands. My rebuild book doesn't say much except to install it along with the cam sprocket.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

It should be snug, you can tap down around it with extension but it should not have to be really forced. A piece of pipe that fits over crank can tap it into place.
Make sure the timing marks are faced forward.

 

[jstaples2]

Ok thanks. And it should fully seat against this shoulder where the red arrow is? The green arrow is where I get hung up. I'll try gentle persuasion with a piece of pipe and some barry white.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Ok thanks. And it should fully seat against this shoulder where the red arrow is? The green arrow is where I get hung up. I'll try gentle persuasion with a piece of pipe and some barry white.
View attachment 124667

So long as you do not have to pound the crap out of it it's good.

 

[heyoldguy]

It should slide on. At the most just some gentle taps. Or else, getting a good new timing chain on will be one heck of a fight. If you beat it on, pray to God you don't have to remove it several times while timing the camshaft.

 

[jstaples2]

Can someone help me confirm the correct orientation of the LY Rod in the block? I think the machine shop put the passenger side pistons on backwards. Pictures below are of the number 2 bore (passenger side, front bore).

Should the oiling hole oriented to the "inside" of the block (pictured below)

Or oriented to the "outside" of the block (pictured below)

I'm thinking the second picture (oil hole towards the outside of block) is correct because the LY rod has a chamfer on that side that needs to mate up to the throw. The flat side needs to be butted up against the other connecting rod. Can someone help me confirm?

 

[65sporty]

I don't know about the 440 but with any other V8 I have built your correct with the chamfer facing the crank filet and the flat sides against each other.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Pistons should be notched to point forward. The oiler hole in rod halves faces the piston on the opposite bank.

 

[jstaples2]

Thanks for the help guys, I honestly appreciate it. Being my first build I am learning a ton and really appreciate the knowledge sharing. It turns out the rods on the passenger side were in fact backwards on the pistons. I just got back from the machine shop after having them switched. Now to clean everything back up and pop them back in. Installation should be a breeze the 3rd time around

Pistons should be notched to point forward. The oiler hole in rod halves faces the piston on the opposite bank.

That is exactly what I had been scouring the internet and my rebuild book for.

 

[jstaples2]

Hey all -
Been a while, but I'm still around. I finally got back to the short block assembly and thought I'd update with the progress. I had got the pistons re-installed and everything torque'd to spec. I got the timing chain installed along with oil slinger, timing chain cover and harmonic balancer.

I've got a question that I don't think I want to know the answer too... The book I'm following said to put sealer on the timing cover gasket (cover side first and let dry) and seal the gasket to the block. This went fine until I went to torque the bolts on the timing cover to 15lbs. The gasket started to rip and squirt out the sides of the block. So - while there's still sealer between the cover and block some of the gasket material has ripped as i torqued things down. It's not a ton of gasket that ripped, but I wonder about what I can't see.

Do I need to pull it all apart and start over? Do you think between the sealer and gasket that there's enough coverage?

 

[traintech55]

Check the holes in the timing cover to see if they have been over torqued. (Where the bolt goes thru will be indented). If so, straighten the cover and replace the gasket.

 

[celticwarlock]

Replace it. Now's the time.

 

[max1196]

Jstaples2, is this an early picture of the assembly or is the cover back on? From what I see, you are missing one of the oil gallery plugs (the one half way between the cam and crank at an angle).

 

[jstaples2]

Thanks max1196 - I pulled the harmonic balancer and timing cover off and sure enough it was a missing oil galley plug. The block didn't have one in when I took it to the shop or missed it in my notes/pictures. The book I'm following clearly says there are 4 plugs (2 in the rear and 2 in front by the timing chain). I mistook the plug that seals up the fuel pump as the 4th plug. Holy crap that would have been catastrophe - if you are ever in the Austin, TX area I owe you a beer.

I sealed up the plug and cleaned up the block and timing chain cover. Waiting on a new gasket and I'll seal it up again.

Do you all use silicone sealer on this gasket or just mate it up with the gasket alone?

 

[65sporty]

Do you all use silicone sealer on this gasket or just mate it up with the gasket alone?

I just use the gasket alone, no sealer.