My 440 GT boils after I switch the engine off

[saylor]

for all teh youngsters
this is what it looks like when your tstat opens:

http://elsaylor.com/1968plymouthfuryiii/20170706_141902.mp4

DO NOT OPEN YOUR RADIATOR CAP WHILE THE CAR IS HOT YOU WILL STEAM YOUR FACE OFF

your pal -

- saylor

 

[LocuMob]

Nobody was saying you can have a done car, at least one done right, for $2500 - that's just your buy-in. And once it's done and you've got 20K into it, it's worth $2500 to the next schmuck.

That makes me feel better. At 2500 for the buy in, I had 800 to spend elsewhere. Now I feel like I got a steal!

 

[commando1]

since i jumped into the middle of the thread with a totally different topic (thats how we do right?) about the snake oil radiator treatment (evapo rust thermocure from summit) I wanted to post a couple of pics about it:

View attachment 132145when i drained and flushed with water, i thought i had milkshake, figured the treatment ate something and let motor oil in. i was pissed.


but then after a up to temp warm up to get the t stat open, the foam cleared up - i guess its just some flim flam left over from the additive.

so another drain, and another water flush:
View attachment 132146 that sukka is clean as a whistle in there.

You really should do something about that shroud...

 

[LocuMob]

You really should do something about that shroud...

I didn't want to say it.

 

[Wollfen]

So I got the crack testing kit the other day and did the heads, they are good! I didn't think they were the issue but it pays to be safe. I can also eliminate it as a possible cause should I still have the same issue after reassembling. Next, put the heads back together and back on the car, stay tuned!

 

[Ripinator]

So I got the crack testing kit the other day and did the heads, they are good! I didn't think they were the issue but it pays to be safe. I can also eliminate it as a possible cause should I still have the same issue after reassembling. Next, put the heads back together and back on the car, stay tuned!

Mighty fine. What are you doing differently this time with re-assembly?

 

[Wollfen]

Making progress again on the GT, got the heads back on and made doubly sure of torque readings etc. Both heads and block checked out flat and true before going on. New Felpro gaskets in place. Inlet manifold back on and rockers back on, should be done soon.

 

[rags]

were you ever able to confirm a problem?

 

[Wollfen]

were you ever able to confirm a problem?

At the top of page 5 you will see a pic I uploaded showing some carbon buildup over a coolant hole, it appears there is a black mark travelling from the cylinder to that pocket, it is black and is different from the other three, I'm thinking the bubbles came from here. We shall see once I start the car up again and check the coolant while the engine is running.

 

[CanCritter]

gl...wana see that puppy runnin and howlin

 

[78Brougham]

made doubly sure of torque readings etc.

What kind of torque wrench are you using and when was it calibrated last? Just a reminder to you or any other followers, always set the torque wrench back to the lowest possible setting before putting it away. And of course always use a snapon torque wrench... lol (shameless plug)

 

[live4theking]

I learned in the AF to always set torque wrenches back. Too many guys don't do it. You've gotta unload it.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Get a beam type they reset to zero when you let go and unless you over torque and bend it, or leave it in a fire, heat it with a torch or some other abuse/neglect it is always accurate.

 

[Big_John]

Get a beam type they reset to zero when you let go and unless you over torque and bend it, or leave it in a fire, heat it with a torch or some other abuse/neglect it is always accurate.

We calibrated torque wrenches day in and day out.... and yea.. It's hard to beat a good old beam type wrench.

If you have the "clicker" type wrench and you forget to turn it back to the lowest setting, you need to "exercise" the wrench a few times before you use it and it should go back to being as accurate as it was before.

The biggest problem I've seen with torque wrenches is people use them as breaker bars for disassembly. Want to kill an expensive Snap-On dial type torque wrench? Pretty easy... just over stress it or use it to take something apart.

 

[78Brougham]

Kid handed me a 1/2 inch 250# T W one day needed the gears replaced. I just looked at him and said, "You loaned this to someone and he used it as a breaker bar didn't he" he just have me that quizzical "Busted" look. After putting a kit in it, I told him he really should have it calibrated and it will cost his friend about $65 to get it done. Dumb looks are priceless.

 

[Big_John]

Kid handed me a 1/2 inch 250# T W one day needed the gears replaced. I just looked at him and said, "You loaned this to someone and he used it as a breaker bar didn't he" he just have me that quizzical "Busted" look. After putting a kit in it, I told him he really should have it calibrated and it will cost his friend about $65 to get it done. Dumb looks are priceless.

Here's a couple Snap-On dial wrenches that were screwed up. These are really nice... usually accurate if not abused.

The slotted piece with the screw in it is part of the bending bar. It should be in the center of the opening... The wrenches have been pushed past their limits.

And no... that's not a granite surface plate they are sitting on...

 

[78Brougham]

I sell a few inch pound dial types to guys who set up rears. They start at zero and are very accurate. Until they get lent out to numbskulls.

 

[Big_John]

I sell a few inch pound dial types to guys who set up rears. They start at zero and are very accurate. Until they get lent out to numbskulls.

We had industrial customers... So we had the full gamut of stuff from big to small and those guys can screw up on a whole different level.

There's nothing like telling a customer that a wrench (or anything for that mater) is jacked up... They have to do impact studies, possibly recall product etc.

I don't miss any of that crap since I retired....

 

[cantflip]

We calibrated torque wrenches day in and day out.... and yea.. It's hard to beat a good old beam type wrench.

If you have the "clicker" type wrench and you forget to turn it back to the lowest setting, you need to "exercise" the wrench a few times before you use it and it should go back to being as accurate as it was before.

The biggest problem I've seen with torque wrenches is people use them as breaker bars for disassembly. Want to kill an expensive Snap-On dial type torque wrench? Pretty easy... just over stress it or use it to take something apart.

I still get a knot in my stomach thinking about the one time I loaned my 3/8" to a fella trying to put a head gasket on his own car after hours... "Ernie, DO NOT take the bolts off with this, it will ruin it." 10-15 minutes later I went over to check on him and he was breaking head bolts loose...

 

[ayilar]

Reviving the thread: what was the solution in the end, @Wollfen ?