My new `67 Imperial Crown Coupe!

...and I thought this was known in the US, too as there's a song titled "Silence is golden" .

Speech is silver, silence is golden. Should try some Amish message board. :)
 
I've been known to have a silver tongue...
i didn't buy it thinking it would garner so much attention but it didn't take me long to realize.
 
We need some new pics of the pretty girl working on the car with a pink T-shirt. :)
 
LOL! I'll see what I can do but it rarely gets above about 45 degrees F out in that part of the shop during the winter! I am looking for a heat source that doesn't cost 300 extra bucks a month to run out there.
 
Natural gas space heater....

I bought one of these on CL for about 100 hundred bucks.
The pilot light alone was sufficient 50% of the time.
hearth_glo_natural_gas_space_heater_35_texarkana_arkansas_23214759.jpg


Just get a bigger one like this.
They're practically salvage.

reznor_shop_heater_125_lafe_ar_28654143.jpg
 
Natural gas space heater....

I bought one of these on CL for about 100 hundred bucks.
The pilot light alone was sufficient 50% of the time.
hearth_glo_natural_gas_space_heater_35_texarkana_arkansas_23214759.jpg


Just get a bigger one like this.
They're practically salvage.

reznor_shop_heater_125_lafe_ar_28654143.jpg
That top one could pass for a Raymond Loewy design. The bottom one not so much.
 
That's pretty much what I have and with 16' ceilings and about 3,000 square feet it costs about 300 bucks a month to keep it at 50 out there with one of those dinosaurs. I'm going radiant tube or indoor pellet stove, whichever I find cheapest and first.
 
Thought I'd blow the dust off this thread as the season for driving it is now fast approaching. After a failed attempt to take Catfish up on a very generous offer to trade up my bent ones for his straight pair, damn shipping costs made it prohibitive, I got this pair from Murry Park. I just have to find time to prep and install them but at least I have them! I must also make time to fix the rear main or hire it done and install the sound system before Carlisle, the rear leaf springs may have to wait.

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You got around to take care of that damn crank seal already ?
 
That's next, Klaus. As I said, I might have to hire it done or pull a couple of all nighters to do it myself.
 
I have a couple guys that I'd let do it.
 
Best advise I've ever seen on in car rear seal replacement on our BB's.

Stolen from Moparts:
With all that BS out of the way I'm going to tell you all what I have found out. Here are the parts that I'm working with.

Second generation, Mopar Performance Hemi Block. (not a World Block)
Started with Aluminum Billet Seal retainer but went to factory retainer.
Eagle 4.150 crank with knurled seal surface.
Started with Felpro seal, then Mopar Performance seal.

Now the fix!! I should done this to begin with.

Remove old seal and clean everything, crank, seal retainer mounting bolts, everything.
Use rope seal Victor Reinz part number JV551. FelPro has them as well.
Go to Napa and buy tool #492 also known as "Sneaky Pet" rope seal installation tool.

Step 1: Measure seal retainer. It should be 3.000 /- .015 If it is taller than that, remove excess. Dry fit into block and the engine block oil pan surface and the seal retainer should be flush. Then remove.

Step 2: Take new rope seal and place it in the seal retainer. Take a large socket and press and form the seal into the retainer. Form the seal to the point where the seal is uniformed and fits nicely in the retainer. The ends will hang out by 1/2" on either side. Take a new razor blade and cut the ends off BUT leave 1/16' extra on both ends.

Step 3: Carefully remove seal out of the retainer and spray JB80 or other spray lube on both sides of the seal. Take your new Napa seal installation tool and thread it around the crank where the seal goes. Hook you formed rope seal on the end of the tool. Apply more JB80 to the seal. With help from a friend have them start to rotate the crankshaft while you pull the seal into the block. This tool is so cool!! You will see how the little jaws that grabs the seal is the same size as the grove the the seal sits in. When the seal is going through the block it pinches the seal and hold onto the new seal. Keep pulling till the seal just starts to come through the other side and then stop and remove tool.

Step 4: Take the seal retainer and a center punch and make 6 marks in the area where the side seals lay. These little punch marks will help hold the side seals in and keep them from sliding down during install. Take the rope seal and place it in the retainer and like before form it to the retainer like before. Again cut the extra off but remember ti leave the 1/16" extra. Remove seal and apply sealer to the retainer where the seal lies. Reinstall seal into retainer and press firmly to make sure seal is in place.

Step 6: Go back to the seal that is in the engine block....take a long screwdriver and push and form the ends of the seal so it does not lay on the engine block where the seal retainer meets the engine block. Just do your best to push all those threads to the center of the seal. Now do the same thing to the seal that is in the retainer. Apply a dab of sealer to the ends of the seal and a VERY thin coat of sealer it the ends of the retainer where it meets the block.

Step 7: The Victor rope seal comes with these cardboard type side seals. Take these side seals and dunk them in oil....You must be kinda quick when doing this because they will start to swell. Take the oiled side seals and place them on the seal retainer with about 1/4" sticking above the retainer. Quickly install the seal retainer into the block. When you push the retainer up and in the side seals will slip some but when everything is in correctly the side seals should be flush or have 1/16' sticking down. Install the two mounting bolts and your almost done.

Step 8: (optional) I took a 1" wide piece of sheet metal and but a very slight bend in it. I then put 3" long bead of sealer on it. I threaded my new tool up behind the block where the seal retainer meets the block. I forced the bead of sealer into the small gap where the seal retainer meets the block. I then drew the tool down from behind the block and that slight bend I put in the tool helped force the sealer into this gap. I did this two or three time and I saw the sealer being forced into that gap. I did this for a little extra security.

Bolt the pan back up and you should be good to go.
 
Want to know something that is very, very, sad?
You can't bring this car to a DEALERSHIP.
They'll tell you they have no one that can (wll?) do it.

If they can't plug it in, read the printout, replace the whole item that the printout says may (MAY!) be the problem, they can't handle it.

Under warranty? Replace the engine.
Not under the waranty? They'll bang you enough labor to make an engine swap send the car dealer's kids through college.
And the funny part?
At the top of the bill, there will STILL be...

Diagnostic...........1.00 Hr(s).................@$125.00................$125.00
 
Right. An official dealership would be the last place to think of for a car of this age. We do have a few free lance shops with shop owners up to 72 y/o. That's where I occassionally take the European 60s cars to.
 
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