Need some suspension help for my 68 Fury

[Blairboy3]

So after a towing mishap & a botched transmission rebuild, I'm finally tearing back into my Fury. Need some advice:

1. I need to rebuild the front end completely. I wanted to go poly bushings, but looking at Energy Suspension & Just Suspension's sites I'm only seeing rubber kits for our old land yachts. Am I out of luck? Any other options?

2. Retiring the old flat leaf springs (surprised I didn't push the air shocks through the trunk) and getting some Calvert split leaf mono springs & a set of Caltracs. My car came from the factory with 14" wheels. I'm running 15's now with MT 275/60 drag radials. With the flat springs, it sat pretty low... driveline was near level from trans to rearend & pretty sure the pinion snubber was doing more to keep the car from bottoming out than the leafs. So I'm wondering if I should run stock spec springs, or get the -1" set. I just don't want the *** way up in the air.

3. Rear shocks. Should I stick with the air shocks, or go back to some standard gas shocks? I saw Monroe makes a rear shock for the Fury w/ an integrated coil spring. Not adjustable & labeled HD/ Towing, so probably way more than I need.

Looking at front disc conversions, too... Scarebird, ECI, or ?. For now though, focusing on the suspension while the trans & rearend are being rebuilt. Dropping the 3.91's & putting in 4.56's!

 

[GOLDMYN]

hi, you get time, post up a few pix

 

[FURYGT]

So after a towing mishap & a botched transmission rebuild, I'm finally tearing back into my Fury. Need some advice:

1. I need to rebuild the front end completely. I wanted to go poly bushings, but looking at Energy Suspension & Just Suspension's sites I'm only seeing rubber kits for our old land yachts. Am I out of luck? Any other options?

2. Retiring the old flat leaf springs (surprised I didn't push the air shocks through the trunk) and getting some Calvert split leaf mono springs & a set of Caltracs. My car came from the factory with 14" wheels. I'm running 15's now with MT 275/60 drag radials. With the flat springs, it sat pretty low... driveline was near level from trans to rearend & pretty sure the pinion snubber was doing more to keep the car from bottoming out than the leafs. So I'm wondering if I should run stock spec springs, or get the -1" set. I just don't want the *** way up in the air.

3. Rear shocks. Should I stick with the air shocks, or go back to some standard gas shocks? I saw Monroe makes a rear shock for the Fury w/ an integrated coil spring. Not adjustable & labeled HD/ Towing, so probably way more than I need.

Looking at front disc conversions, too... Scarebird, ECI, or ?. For now though, focusing on the suspension while the trans & rearend are being rebuilt. Dropping the 3.91's & putting in 4.56's!

Rebuild the front end with Moog or equivalent quality parts. Contact
@mobileparts
for your front end parts.

Have your leaf springs rebuilt and re- arched or order new springs. Mono leaf springs are for Nova and Camaro drag cars. Use KYB gas shocks all around.

Get a donor disc brake set up for a 1973 C Body to upgrade your front brakes.

The above recommendations are for a car that will be street driven. Unless your car is strictly a drag car, I can’t imagine why you would need 4.56 rear gears or 3.91 rear gears.

Just my 2 cents as a former owner of a ‘68 Sport Fury with a 520” pump gas engine that was a street and strip car.

Also, if you’re drag racing, you want softer rear springs to help with weight transfer on launch.

 

[mobileparts]

I have the entire “ C “ Body Front End —- all sixteen ( 16 )
Components —- No ( infinite ) Back Orders , No Baloney , No Egg Rolls , Best Quality available in 2026 , — or —
Better Quality available in 2026 elsewhere by far…….

A Complete Front End is comprised of three ( 3 )
Sub Sections ( as listed below ) :

1 ) SUSPENSION : Upper and LOWER BALL JOINTS , Upper and LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS ( 5 items ) …..
( I even have *** N.O.S. *** MOOG *** LOWER BALL JOINT ASSEMBLIES , at the moment !!!! )

2 ) STEERING : Inner and Outer Tie Rods , TIE ROD SLEEVES , Idler Arm , and PITMAN ARM ( 5 items ) …..

3 ) THE REST : Strut Rod Bushings , Inner and Outer Sway Bar Frame Bushings , Upper and Lower Control Arm Rebound Bumpers / “ Bump Stops “ , and Torsion Bar Boots
( 6 items ) …….

P.M. me , as per forum rules , if interested….
Yours, Craig…..

 

[Sixpactogo]

I would stick with the factory style rubber kits and forgo all the squeaking poly parts. You will never wear them out again in your lifetime. Good info in post 3

 

[Blairboy3]

hi, you get time, post up a few pix

Here you go sir! These are a bit old. Took thrm right after I finished the engine & installed the first transmission... before a tow company destroyed said transmission. Engine is a 383 w/ ported 452 heads, Mopar .528/.528 solid cam, M1 Intake w/ Holley 830 DP & Edelbrock nitrous plate system, Hooker headers, dual 3" exhaust, TF 727 w/ 4000 stall, 3.91's (currently swapping in 4.56's). Dropping off the transmission to be rebuilt again (new shop) tomorrow.

 

[Blairboy3]

I have the entire “ C “ Body Front End —- all sixteen ( 16 )
Components —- No ( infinite ) Back Orders , No Baloney , No Egg Rolls , Best Quality available in 2026 , — or —
Better Quality available in 2026 elsewhere by far…….

A Complete Front End is comprised of three ( 3 )
Sub Sections ( as listed below ) :

1 ) SUSPENSION : Upper and LOWER BALL JOINTS , Upper and LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS ( 5 items ) …..
( I even have *** N.O.S. *** MOOG *** LOWER BALL JOINT ASSEMBLIES , at the moment !!!! )

2 ) STEERING : Inner and Outer Tie Rods , TIE ROD SLEEVES , Idler Arm , and PITMAN ARM ( 5 items ) …..

3 ) THE REST : Strut Rod Bushings , Inner and Outer Sway Bar Frame Bushings , Upper and Lower Control Arm Rebound Bumpers / “ Bump Stops “ , and Torsion Bar Boots
( 6 items ) …….

P.M. me , as per forum rules , if interested….
Yours, Craig…..

I'll be reaching out soon

 

[SIPLOWGUY]

ABSOLUTELY reach out to Craig @mobileparts for the best parts.

 

[GOLDMYN]

sleeper!

 

[Davea Lux]

if you are going to drive this car on the street with that gear ratio, your engine will be beating itself to death. Since you are rebuilding the transmission, invest in a gear vendor overdrive kit to give the car more flexibility.

Dave

 

[Blairboy3]

This car is not a daily driver & I'm not interested in taking it on long road trips. I'll take it to the local car shows (all within 20-30 miles of my house) & when I go to the track it gets trailered. I'm trying to get it to break into the 11's, and best I've done so far was 12.89 on a small 100 shot of nitrous. After about 10 runs at Famoso we got some things dialed in, we swapped out the jets to bump up to a 250 shot but I must have run the bottle too low & it was sputtering.

It runs hard, and should be in the high 11's with the 250 shot, but it is super sluggish off the line. Lower gears are going to help with that 60' time & the caltracs & springs are definitely going to help it hook up better. Never got a chance to fill the bottle & head back to the track before the tow company destroyed the transmission. IF I hate the 4.56's, I'll swap the 3.91's back in. That's the nice thing about these 8.75 rears. If you have an extra center section laying around, it's a fairly quick swap!

 

[Blairboy3]

I do like the idea of a gear vendor unit. I'm just not there yet.

 

[CBODY67]

There is a member in here with a 1966 New Yorker 440 stroker motor car, full street driving car. YouTube videos exist of the dtag strip performance. Not to suggest you do a stroker motor, but might be an idea of what is possible.

CBODY67

 

[Blairboy3]

There is a member in here with a 1966 New Yorker 440 stroker motor car, full street driving car. YouTube videos exist of the dtag strip performance. Not to suggest you do a stroker motor, but might be an idea of what is possible.

CBODY67

I still have the original 383 that came in the car stripped down to the block & crank... don't think I haven't thought of it!

 

[CBODY67]

There is a member in here with a 1966 New Yorker 440 stroker motor car, full street driving car. YouTube videos exist of the dtag strip performance. Not to suggest you do a stroker motor, but might be an idea of what is possible.

CBODY67

www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPY4BfdB78

Is about 4 minutes of drag racing of the '66 New Yorker, with shots of the speed/ET displays, too.

Should be a thread or two in here on how the car is set-up.

CBODY67

 

[Blairboy3]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPY4BfdB78

Is about 4 minutes of drag racing of the '66 New Yorker, with shots of the speed/ET displays, too.

Should be a thread or two in here on how the car is set-up.

CBODY67

I'll def check it out. Thanks!

 

[mrfury68]

What Fury GT said x 2. This will give you the best feel & ride from your Fury. Also, Craig @ mobile parts is a trusted vendor several of us on here have used over the years. Top quality parts and service. Great looking 4 door hardtop BTW

 

[mobileparts]

^^^ More than several !!! , thanks to your many kind words over the years , mrfury68 !!! ^^^

I need you to be my television spokesperson, because
I am old and ugly … ( I can’t change that !!! )

Stay warm this week….. Yours, Craig…..

P.S. I even have two sets of *** N.O.S. *** M O O G ***
*** LOWER BALL JOINT ASSEMBLIES *** , presently ……