New forum..old face

As Edelbrock mentioned in their instructions,I had to modify the throttle bracket to fit the intake.A wee bit grounded off and perfect fit.
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Since the Eddy intake has more real estate below it,I painted the turkey pan's non-sealing areas.
Blocked off the heat crossovers before installing the intake.
I cut out from the old turkey pan and made my own block off tabs.
I kept the home made insulation in tin foil in place,too
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I took Wednesday and Thursday off to work on the BoaB.
Plus I have the weekend off as well.
Needless to say,I used my time wisely and got lots done to the BoaB.
Painted the Dual Snorkel air cleaner.
I focused on the under hood wiring harness and Electronic Ignition.
I tested the original harness for continuity,cleaned it up and made any needed repairs.
Since there is no repop Electronic Ignition wiring harness for C bodies,I made my own.
I located the ECU behind the battery on the left inner fender for easy access and keep the added wires tidy.
I extended the wires for the coil and distributor and wrapped them in the factory tape to "look" stock.
I added connectors at the ballast resistor for easy access/repair as well.
Repop date coded spark plug wires,Mopar cap and button installed too.
Coil is an ACCEL Super Stock painted black.
I am bypassing the heater core and omitting the thermostat for the initial engine break-in for now.
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This is a cover I robbed from a NOS voltage regulator but has Wells electronic guts hiding behind it.
I also installed my NOS C body wiper motor.
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Went to install the wiper cowl cover but had to remove the left fender.
I forgot the damn speed nuts that hold the little bracket for the cowl.
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Took a few tries and got the cowl to fit.
Scratched the fender in the process,but at least I scratched it,LOL!
It will buff out,Ha hah!
Hood still needs adjustment but will be later when I have extra help available.
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Back under the hood,the 26 inch rad core and hood release support went back in the car.
I did not stop until I had the battery tray,fan shroud,26 inch radiator,hoses,and tranny lines all connected.
Using ring gear clamps for the initial engine break-in. Also bypassing the power steering and heater core.Will not run a thermostat either,but will go in after the break-in.
I also put on the hard to find in good shape lower yoke shroud (part of the Heavy Duty cooling/towing Package).
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Installed the Summit mini-starter and test fit the TTi frt pipes and all is good.
Connected the repop C body battery cable to the starter but the terminals are a tight fit against the block.
I should have connected the cable first before installing the starter.
View attachment 143757
Does the Summit mini-starter sound like a Chrysler starter?
 
Not likely. I had a mini on my 440 .. sounded a lil like a toyota .. hate to say it!
Unless you are going for O.E Gold Certification,sound is not an issue for how often you listen to it (compared to listening to the engine running.)
Reliability is more important.
Mini-starters --as you may already know--are lighter, more efficient and less draw on the electrical system compared to the Chrysler gear reduction starter.
With the HP manifolds and TTi exhaust,the old school starter would be a tight fit.

The BoaB is far from original or being "factory" stock.
All the mods or tricks I applied ensured me the car will work as good as she looks.
- 70 amp Powermaster "round back" alternator
- Electronic voltage regulator
- Electronic gauge volt limiter
- Electronic Ignition
- MAD bulkhead bypass with fusible link
- Under hood shunt with 10 gauge wire,12 gauge fusible link
- LED bulbs for all turn signals,taillights,and dome lamps
- Grote 44891 electronic flasher for the LED's
- Headlamp harness with 2 relays (Hi & LO)
- H4 Hella Low beams and H1 Hella High beams
- You can never have too many ground wires!!
 
Unless you are going for O.E Gold Certification,sound is not an issue for how often you listen to it (compared to listening to the engine running.)
Reliability is more important.
Mini-starters --as you may already know--are lighter, more efficient and less draw on the electrical system compared to the Chrysler gear reduction starter.
With the HP manifolds and TTi exhaust,the old school starter would be a tight fit.

The BoaB is far from original or being "factory" stock.
All the mods or tricks I applied ensured me the car will work as good as she looks.
- 70 amp Powermaster "round back" alternator
- Electronic voltage regulator
- Electronic gauge volt limiter
- Electronic Ignition
- MAD bulkhead bypass with fusible link
- Under hood shunt with 10 gauge wire,12 gauge fusible link
- LED bulbs for all turn signals,taillights,and dome lamps
- Grote 44891 electronic flasher for the LED's
- Headlamp harness with 2 relays (Hi & LO)
- H4 Hella Low beams and H1 Hella High beams
- You can never have too many ground wires!!
Never bothered me, man! So long as that 440 came online I could have cared less how whatever turned it over sounded like.
 
Engine break in is tonight!!
James and i will be busy so I am unable to make a video with my el cheapo phone and do not have the programming for my new-to-me camera.
Exhaust is installed,oil change done,battery in and electrical systems tested.
Very excited-cant wait!!
 
Engine break in is tonight!!
James and i will be busy so I am unable to make a video with my el cheapo phone and do not have the programming for my new-to-me camera.
Exhaust is installed,oil change done,battery in and electrical systems tested.
Very excited-cant wait!!
Damn, man! Wish I could see it. Best wishes for you n the barge. Be sure n bottle up some of that fresh engine exhaust for me!
 
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