new guy... hello all

and thank you every one im learning as i go so forgive me if i ask a basic stupid question. i do try and do some research before i round up parts for things but the more experience someone has with something the better off they are so hence the reason why i ask questions. I've found its always good to learn from the knowledge and experience of others, so thank you in advance.
 
flyinbrick68 said:
and thank you every one im learning as i go so forgive me if i ask a basic stupid question. i do try and do some research before i round up parts for things but the more experience someone has with something the better off they are so hence the reason why i ask questions. I've found its always good to learn from the knowledge and experience of others, so thank you in advance.
Click to expand...
no thanx required, we are all learning here
 
whats the color of your imp looks damned close to the color of the ol dodge
 
well im having a mechanic assess the shape of the engine while im stuck here in afghanistan kinda blows i cant do it myself but since im a newbie if the bearings are srewed and im pretty sure its a cast crank what are the odds the journals wont be scored? if they rods are bad ill just plan on doing a rebuild... maybe its time to take advantage of that 413 crank i have an build a 451... only expense i can see above a basic rebuild would be cutting the crank and rods. has anyone here done this, i mean a 451 build? ill look at some other posts ect and look at the tech forums. either way ill probably be looking at cams ect if i have to rebuild... ill keep everyone posted... well those that are interested anyway thank you.
 
You might wanna check the fitment between the Torque Converter and the end of the 413 crank FlyinBrick. The bolt pattern is the same but memory tells me you will need to have the end of the 413 crank hawged out to accept the nose from the later model Torque Converter. Easy to check and an easy to fix when it's on the bench, Jer
 
Im still undecided on what direction to go with the fury... yank the 400 or rebuild it or just pull the pan check the bearings and go from there... finally made it back to the states and did some digging around. I found out that you have to yank some of the steering linkage to get the oil pan off... kind of a pain in the *** if you ask me. I hope that I have time to work on it some more pull a few main caps and see the condition of the bearings as I had a friend listen to the car, that's his opinion. If the crank is wiped Ill have no choice I suppose and at that point its time for a full rebuild. I was hoping I could just get by with bearings for the time being time will tell..
 
well im back got the 400 tore down had the crank looked at junk.... so hes going to be grinding my 413 crank and I guess ill be building a 451 for the fury.... trying to decided on a cam for it don't think I want to go much over the 268 lunati cam so I can keep some low end going.... think ill toss the smog exhaust logs in favor for a set of headers think ill need it if ihave a cam ground on a 110 centerline... I don't take much stock in desktop dyno or other sims but I do have one just to play around with interesting stuff... although I don't think it asks for enough info... ill be keeping the stock heads I think and do some light clean up and porting as a set of alum heads are out of my budget or at least more than I want to spend anyhow. id take some suggestions on a cam if any bodys got one, its gotta pull vacuum for the brakes ect so im limited... ill also have to invest in a good aftermarket converter somewhere around 2600 to 2800 stall is all that id want to go as this will turn into a weekend cruiser street machine with the 3.23 gears... if I ever take it to the track the 3.91's will come out of the truck and swap to the car for a lil fun.... anyhow id appreciate the ideas thank you all.
 
There are some.k.b hyperutectic pistons for a 3.75 stroke in a low deck motor before you completely disassemble get a measurement of how far down the stock piston is, mainly for reference, your stock 346 casting heads are about 88cc as cast but could be bigger but that should get you in ball park for compression calculators I'm having a similar issue trying to use a 454 piston in a 383 with 440 crank and low deck rods. Good luck and thanks for your service.
 
Ill PistonsTo Check I Think Its 2000 Im Going TO Get A Forged I Beam Rod And Go W 6.760 Rods And Get Kb Forged Pistons I Don't Want To Go Over 9.5:1 So I CanStill Run Pump Gas Its Hard To Get anything Here In Nebraska Without Ethanol In It Id Ill Fig Out Whether I Need To GeT The Heads To 84Cc With The 12Cc Dished pistons. Ill Have ThE Machinist Cc The Heads W THe New Vavles 1.81 And Well See Where I sit
 
Running The Numbers Is Tricky With The Desktop Dyno Not Sure What The Intake Cc Runners Would Be Ive Heard Advertised On Stock Heads Anywhere From 179Cc's To 200Cc'S And I Dont Have Flow Numbers So Goin With A 195 Cc Chamber With A 268 Cam Using Numbers Off Of HowardS Website At A 110 Lsa ILl Get Around 4Oo Hp Or A Bit More With Dual Exhaust Stamped Rockers Ect Timing At 36 Degrees Nothing Crazy Seems Kinda Low To Me But Im Im Leery Of Overcaming It As Id Rather HavE An Enjoyable Ride RatHer Than I High Rpm Screamer..
 
Lopey cam does not always equal power it just sounds cool.

Some engine builders here like has2bmopar can tell you better than me but I'd go higher than 9.5:1. You can run way more than that on pump gas.
 
The 268 Cam Has A 224 234 Duration Intake Exhaust @.050Although Its Ground At 112Lsa By Howards Instead Of 110 LikE Most Cam Companies Pretty Docile Though With More Lift Than Id Need Id Guess... The Dyno Sim Shows A 40 Hp Loss By Going With The 112 Though I DOnt Know How Accurate It Is Ive Little Faith In It Really And Id Much Rather Have A Cam ThAt Performs Than Sounds Good....
 
Welcome to the board!!

Be careful going too much above 9.5:1 with factory iron heads, easy to cause detonation. You can go higher compression and still use pump gas if you switch to aluminum heads. You'll have to weigh what you're going to do with the car against the $1000-1500 price for aluminum heads.
 
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