New project: Allen Engine analyzers, restoration?
- Thread starter HWYCRZR
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backyardmechanic
New Member
Hi, Polara 500 , I got mine Allen engine anylizer running last summer. I found a burned fuse and a few wires broken in the emission tester due to the switch nut beneath switch loose causing the switch to rotate and breaking the wires
backyardmechanic
New Member
Here is my Allen Engine Anylizer fully restored
Since this thread came back to the surface, I decided it was time to get busy. I cut out the spot welds and took a cut off wheel and cut out the rust. Now I am waiting for my Woodward 8” metal shear to arrive to cut out a straight replacement piece. Will have to try my hand at sheet metal welding. Will have to experiment with some scrap to make sure my welder is setup perfectly. Will try my hand at “body work”.
Shear came in yesterday, of course I had to use it right away even before bolting it down. Task today is to mount it to a support base. Any way I had trouble following my line. You could line the scribe mark with the back jaw, but difficult to line up the front. For longer cuts it is important to start straight. Once you are cutting in a direction, it is difficult to correct.
After messing up the first piece, I decided I needed a straight edge, or guide on the front of the jaw to get proper alignment.
I need something a little more permanent, but I have a small magnetic laser that I was able to mount that gave me alignment to the front jaws. I have a couple other ideas for a more permanent guide. (On the other hand if I would have had the shear properly mounted I may have been able to line it up more easily.). So far I like it.
After messing up the first piece, I decided I needed a straight edge, or guide on the front of the jaw to get proper alignment.
I need something a little more permanent, but I have a small magnetic laser that I was able to mount that gave me alignment to the front jaws. I have a couple other ideas for a more permanent guide. (On the other hand if I would have had the shear properly mounted I may have been able to line it up more easily.). So far I like it.
Getting ready to weld my new piece in. Need to practice on a couple of pieces to make sure my welder is set up correctly. I think it is still set up for thicker material.
Anyway I have a couple of questions for some of the more experienced like @azblackhemi and @OldWarHorse300 and many others when butt welding two panels together. I am using 22 gauge, and have about 1/16 to 1/8” gap. I understand the key is to do many small welds to avoid over heating and warping. And keep filling in.
The question I have is whether or not I should use some sort of heat sink backer behind each weld to help prevent the weld from blowing out or to keep the back side smooth?
Any advice will be considered. I figured this cabinet is a good practice project to start on.
Thanks
Anyway I have a couple of questions for some of the more experienced like @azblackhemi and @OldWarHorse300 and many others when butt welding two panels together. I am using 22 gauge, and have about 1/16 to 1/8” gap. I understand the key is to do many small welds to avoid over heating and warping. And keep filling in.
The question I have is whether or not I should use some sort of heat sink backer behind each weld to help prevent the weld from blowing out or to keep the back side smooth?
Any advice will be considered. I figured this cabinet is a good practice project to start on.
Thanks
I have my welder set up with .023 wire. Getting close to the right setting. Been doing some video watching, so may try a couple of different settings. Also on this thin of metal I think I need to minimize my gap. I need more practice material.
Smash a piece of copper pipe flat if you want to try it.
Lot's cheaper and disposable. Add a handle if you want.
Going to try and finish the cabinet repair today. Stitch welding on 22 gauge sheet steel is a learning experience. Of course it didn’t help that I ran out of gas for my mig welder somewhere in the process. With the short little bursts I didn’t notice it right away. I still have a hell of a time seeing the line through my welding helmet but am getting better with proper lighting.
Next up, I have a couple more pin holes to fill in.
Then I need to work on heat shrinking to get rid of the oil canning. I found a couple of good videos explaining the process (how and why it works), so will try it.
Next up, I have a couple more pin holes to fill in.
Then I need to work on heat shrinking to get rid of the oil canning. I found a couple of good videos explaining the process (how and why it works), so will try it.
backyardmechanic
New Member
Here is my AC / GM engine anylizer I restored quite a few years ago with emission tester.
I haven’t touched the analyzer in over a year. I got distracted rebuilding my 74 Suzuki TC125 motorcycle engine. And other things.
Now after helping @Polara_500_Jr get his dad’s car on the road (his dad sold me the analyzers), we were taking about fine tuning his carb. I mentioned it sure would be nice if we had an exhaust analyzer.
Well I do, so maybe it’s time to put it back together.
I got frustrated with the bodywork on the cabinet. Wow thin sheet metal warps fast when it gets a little warm even from stich welding. I even learned how to do some metal shrinking, but not very well. Maybe now after a rest, I should get back at it and get it re-assembled.
I do have most of the oil can action out of it. But my welds on this tin sucks. I do have some body filler, so will get it close and put some makeup on it.
Now after helping @Polara_500_Jr get his dad’s car on the road (his dad sold me the analyzers), we were taking about fine tuning his carb. I mentioned it sure would be nice if we had an exhaust analyzer.
Well I do, so maybe it’s time to put it back together.
I got frustrated with the bodywork on the cabinet. Wow thin sheet metal warps fast when it gets a little warm even from stich welding. I even learned how to do some metal shrinking, but not very well. Maybe now after a rest, I should get back at it and get it re-assembled.
I do have most of the oil can action out of it. But my welds on this tin sucks. I do have some body filler, so will get it close and put some makeup on it.
I think for my broken gauge I can steal the voltage gauge out of the big blue machine (on the bottom). Looks like the same size and will just change the lenses so the font matches. I couldn’t get the crt/ oscilloscope to work on it plus it doesn’t have the exhaust analyzer so I just as well use it for parts.
I will work on it this weekend when it cools down.
Marked it out, drilled the holes, and then bent it into shape. Actually turned out pretty good. Now I need to clean up the rust and ragged edges where I drilled out the original spot welds.
Got it welded in. Actually went pretty good. Clamped my copper plate to the backside so I wouldn’t burn through. Now I have some grinding and clean up on the welded side but not too bad. Should have done this a year ago. Soon can paint and put back together.
I got the primer coat on the cabinet, but now I need to get the actual analyzer working. I have a schematic for one which I think could be a generation earlier, and seems some Of the components are different. The one I have has a single sample tube and one reference tube whereas my schematic has two analyzer tubes. Initially I had a little heat rod that I believe provided the IR light and keeps the tubes warm to prevent condensation. Now it isn’t working. Right now I am drawing up my own wiring diagram so hopefully I can start chasing things down. Right now when I start it my % CO gauge pegs and then after 3 minutes slowly drops down past zero, I cannot zero the gauge. My HC gauge pegs as well then quickly drops down past zero. I am too stubborn to give up on it.
I am finding that one chip on the circuit board is about 40 degrees higher than the others.
When I google search for advice or other information I just get this thread in return.
I am finding that one chip on the circuit board is about 40 degrees higher than the others.
When I google search for advice or other information I just get this thread in return.
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