New to me 78 NYB on its way but please Don't tell my wife

[73 T&C]

A few good things today related to getting the ATC back up and running:

I swapped out the actuator to test it with the salvaged spare and it worked perfectly. Did the same with the ambient sensor and it also worked.

Two other spares to add to my collection.

Ditto both vacuum motors. I also have a brand new spare heater core and a possible spare evaporator if it checks out as good too. I can add in the spare vacuum lines and their rubber ends to the list. Last thing to check will be the blower resistors. About the only thing I plan to get rid of will be the airbox itself except I’ll need to to keep all the spares in it.

Sent broken amplifier out to get it fixed. You can’t have too many spare amplifiers. They are definitely the weak link in the system and from what I see they just simply burn out. The rest is fairly straight forward and fairly easy to diagnose.

Speaking of which.... I’m into the diagnostic section of the other thread. I need to finish taking all the pictures and just get it done.

Finally, in case you haven’t noticed, I edit a lot after posting.....so some of the longer posts may be worth checking out again.

Javier

 

[73 T&C]

I've never seen a gold one. What vehicle and location is it specific to?

Here you go Bob.. it’s off a 72 New Yorker

Javier

 

[73 T&C]

Little work today but important to closing up the dash.... hopefully soon. Checked the system for leaks and didn’t find any again. That makes three days.

So I figured I needed to get set up for the closebout work and get a few things that I would need.

Original “Delux” speaker was good, but 40 years old. I’d rather not have to dig into this dash again for this.

New radio has different connectors and that makes sense since it also has many different functions.

So I ordered this connector kit from the vendor for $9.50.

These connectors come with a wiring description that will surely help.

Went out and bought some speakers that will fit for the front.

Stopped on the way back from getting the speakers to get some dielectric grease for the ambient sensor. Hoping to protect that connection going forward.

And.....the fan clutch came in. Having Ivan do the honors for me because... well because I just don’t want to do it. So call me freakin lazy!!!

Besides, I have to let him do some work so I can pay him and to let me keep coming back...

 

[73 T&C]

Plan for tomorrow....

Pull plugs and clean them. Car is running like **** but I’m thinking two months of cold starts without proper warm up have fouled the plugs. Don’t worry, I’m fast and I bought this nifty sand blaster that looks like a sock I want to try out.

Check settings and choke on the carb. I’ve taken that damned carb apart at least three times since the initial overhaul. I’m sure it’s all out of kelter.

Need the car running smoothly again for testing out the A/C system.

Put in the remaining Freon and check again for leaks. So far so good.

Swap out the speakers.

Check out the AutoTemp II one more time. Report findings to the group.

Take pictures for diagnostic portion of the other threads.

Begin the dash assembly.

If finished.... wash the car. It’s filthy again.

 

[1978 NYB]

Here you go Bob.. it’s off a 72 New Yorker

Javier

View attachment 180555

View attachment 180556[/Quote

That looks nice.

I guess I'm biased with Formals and didn' realize Fusies had something different.

 

[MarPar]

Besides, I have to let him do some work so I can pay him and to let me keep coming back...

View attachment 180605

 

[cantflip]

Plan for tomorrow....

Pull plugs and clean them. Car is running like **** but I’m thinking two months of cold starts without proper warm up have fouled the plugs. Don’t worry, I’m fast and I bought this nifty sand blaster that looks like a sock I want to try out.

Check settings and choke on the carb. I’ve taken that damned carb apart at least three times since the initial overhaul. I’m sure it’s all out of kelter.

Need the car running smoothly again for testing out the A/C system.

Put in the remaining Freon and check again for leaks. So far so good.

Swap out the speakers.

Check out the AutoTemp II one more time. Report findings to the group.

Take pictures for diagnostic portion of the other threads.

Begin the dash assembly.

If finished.... wash the car. It’s filthy again.

There's a debate about old abrasive spark plug cleaners like that which goes back before my lifetime... the abrasive could get wedged into the plug where the porcelain meets the metal and later fall into the combustion chamber.

If I clean a plug, I just run it along a wire brush.

 

[73 T&C]

There's a debate about old abrasive spark plug cleaners like that which goes back before my lifetime... the abrasive could get wedged into the plug where the porcelain meets the metal and later fall into the combustion chamber.

If I clean a plug, I just run it along a wire brush.

Yes I’m aware. Thanks!

I have used this type of plug cleaner before at another friends shop for my SM. He said the exact same thing. He showed me that we need to spray them thoroughly with some carb cleaner and blow them out before reinstalling them.

 

[commando1]

No flies on Javier.

 

[73 T&C]

Got half way through the list today. Ivan had changed the fan clutch before I got there.

Spent way too much time on the plugs and engine. As suspected, plugs were a little fouled and I had an air leak in the carb where the rear solenoid attaches to the back of the carb. That was new and a bit unexpected. Hurried rebuild by yours truly was the cause. Note to self: never ever try and hurry a carb rebuild.

Was able to get it sorted. But only got to put in the Freon and test the AutoTemp.

First, the compressor readings. With system full and no bubbles in the site glass, compressor showed a very steady 28 lbs on the suction side and 210 lbs on the high side. Hood was open, obviously, so that short circuited some of the air going through the radiator/condenser. Compensated for this with a fine mist spray on the condenser coil. In case you’re curious, the radiator temp at the top of the tank was a fairly consistent 185 degrees during the whole show. Gauge read just below normal operating temp range. Outdoor temp was 83 degrees at the time.

Suction line was very cold at the fire wall with plenty of condensation but no ice. High side line was reading 180 degrees using a laser thermometer. Air box was making plenty of condensate as well.

System is working well as I had the windows closed and the set temp was at 65 degrees during the charging of the system. That took about 40 minutes after the engine was sorted. The car cabin was easily 65 degrees when I went inside but air temperature at the outlet was only 55-56. That seems to be the maintenance temp for the system when the cabin is at or close to the set temp. Temp taken at the cabin air sensor was 67. Not far off the temp set of 65.

Then I remembered how it worked.

It’s all about the delta “T”.

I turned it off and left it for about an hour in the sun to get nice and warm while I had lunch. After the inside was about 85-90 degrees inside, I started the car and turned the system on and the air temp from the outlets was 36-37 after about 3 minutes. However, about another 10 minutes later the vent air temp started rising very slowly as the cabin temperature started dropping and the recirculating air damper started moving away from 100% recirculated air.

The outside ambient temp was about 95 as I had the hood open and the system was drawing 20% outside air coming off the engine.

I was also able to change the foam around the yoke tie down for the larger high side line to the condenser coil. The original was toast.

Final note: I’ve done plenty of A/C systems in my life ( started as a kid of 16 on my first) Something I’ve always noticed but can’t quite explain is that after filling and checking a Freon 12 based system, you need to run it. It actually picks up efficiency as the gas becomes conditioned through the system and gets cycled. The system will actually get more efficient and colder at the evaporator coil. My plan is to keep watching it for a while to make sure it doesn’t get into any freezing of the new evaporator coil.

Sorry no pictures today. Phone was acting up... long story. Short story, I had it set for move to wake (by accident) and it must have been trying to log on more than six times in a row while in my pocket. When I went to take some pictures, the phone had disabled itself. Had to hook it up to my computer and two hours later had it restored. Pictures coming Monday.

 

[commando1]

Then I remembered how it worked. I turned it off and left it for about an hour in the sun to get nice and warm. When I turned it on again the air temp from the outlets was 36-37 but started rising after about 10 minutes..... very slowly as the cabin temperature started dropping.

That is EXACTLY (!!!) how my ATC II works. To a "T".
Coincidence? I think not.

 

[73 T&C]

Someone is a rockstar. Ordered this on Wednesday and it came in on Saturday.

It came in on Saturday. Definitely gold toned background. Some very minor shelf wear and only one small flaking of the black background. Thinking I may just leave it this way for now. We’ll see.

The top is thicker than the bottom so face should sit flatter/more vertical when mounted against the angled face of the trunk. Will need to make rubber paint gasket for it.

Depth of mounting plate should allow for mounting over semi recessed lock face trim.

 

[commando1]

You're gonna drill holes??

 

[73 T&C]

You're gonna drill holes??

Yes!!!! Yes I am.

 

[73 T&C]

Little project for tonight......

I bought a couple of fender seals years ago as they were much less expensive that buying the sheet rubber. You can see that I’ve used this before.

I used this for several paint seals and custom gaskets.

I usually trace the gasket I need and take an Exacto to it directly. For this one I may make a cardboard template first so as not to needlessly waste the rubber.

 

[73 T&C]

ATC II is up and running and here’s what it looks like.



When I started the car today, the ATC did not want to come on. Using my own diagnostic, I started with a check of vacuum to the accumulator canister. As soon as I touched it, it came on. The end of the vacuum hose was a little swollen from being on that port for 40 years. Trimmed the swollen end off to make sure I had a good positive seal.

A view from inside.
At the bottom right you can see the thermostatic switch (just below the master switch and compressor switch) That was installed into the system and is being wired in today. It’s there to protect the evaporator coil from freezing and will be wired in series to the compressor. It is there to take the place of the EPR valve that was removed from the system.

As the lower dash frame went in, it’s important to note that the removal of the air box did not require removal of the kick panels or removal of the seat. I did have to loosen the sill plate screws to get the kick panels to move out of the way.

Two full days after fully charging it’s still showing full in the video above and we instantly start getting condensate on the suction line.

The suction line is good and cold all the way to the compressor.

Full view of lower dash that is now back in. Speakers still need to be replaced before we close out the dash.

Found a microscopic leak on the front connection to the compressor. Tiniest of bubbles about every minute and a half showing in oil film I placed to see. No way to repair without loosing charge. Leak barely registers on the tester... hence the oil film to find it. Will monitor it and fix later. Freon is expensive. When it starts getting low I’ll do it then. However, at the observed rate it may be a while.....

Maintenance air temp coming from system a little lower today. Down from 55/56.

This is what 180 measured degrees at the top of the radiator looks like on the dash guage. New fan clutch is working well.

Wiring from the thermo switch inside to the compressor with grommet. Ended up making a 3/16” diam. hole in the upper passenger foot well floor pan just below firewall seam about 4” to the right of the condensate drain location. Wiring sealed to grommet with black silicone. Wiring was run up and into the right side engine loom up to the compressor electrical connection.

 

[commando1]

Javier, I'm sitting here flabbergasted.
And kinda speachless.

 

[73 T&C]

Javier, I'm sitting here flabbergasted.
And kinda speachless.

As long as you can still type.

 

[73 T&C]

All done with the gasket for the trunk lock cover.

First things first.... traced and cut the holes in the thin cardboard to be able to set the part flat on the cardboard for a good clean trace.

Cardboard all trimmed up and test fit for alignment.

Test fit of cardboard template prior to cutting the rubber gasket.

Cardboard template check of lock hole center.... here’s one of the few time being an architect comes in handy!

Rubber gasket cut and trimmed.

Side view of rubber gasket in place.

Rear view of rubber gasket in place.

The template will come in handy when locating the holes for the lock cover that need to be drilled.

Also made up some expansion sleeves to be able to set the trim into the trunk.

 

[MarPar]