Hey thanks… you’re right… I won’t have to wonder anymore.Thats sounds like a VERY expensive roundabout way to a few hundred dollar converter. lol, but when ya don't know what ya dont know! it's money well spent because you'll NEVER have to wonder or worry about the condition of the motor..
If I add up ALL the money I've spent on my NYB! Id probably wanna jump off the Brooklyn Bridge..
Looking VERY forward to your Sniper Thread Javier, I wanna do the same with mine but am torn between the Sniper and Eddy ProFlow4 system..
Nail Biter....
And what I found sort of made sense. Engine ran smooth when cold except for vibration (from what ended up being the converter).
Lean burn advanced timing up until warm 160 degree coolant temp, cold start vacuum controlled enrichment circuit in carb and choke control covered the rest to mask any cylinder burn problems. Then as soon as temp reached 160… things started going south with intermittent and irregular missing at idle. Idle really sucked and it was all I could do to get it to hold without breaking down. A little gas for power in drive and it ran ok….Not great. Back then, it was also running hot. And funny thing was that, when it got good and hot to just before redline, it ran better and smooth… like it’s supposed to,
Then I had the engine rebuilt … if only to start at ground zero and bring it to 69 specs with increased cam and compression, upgraded pistons.
Still running the Lean Burn it ran even worse. Tried the Edelbrock carb with the standard Mopar electronic ignition …. Both results the same in that I still had the Same issues only magnified. What a friggin bummer.
Went to throw the motor out and decided to take it completely apart to see what the heck was going on.
Only thing I found was that the stock pushrods were way to tight…wouldn’t turn in their bores without the aid of some muscle and pliers. Checking further, the cam lopes showed the beginnings of scuff wear with only, maybe, 50 hours on it. Also, the block and head had been shaved; how much exactly was a cumulative and exaggerated 50 or 60 mils as best I could measure over a long Saturday of looking and measuring the block. God knows how much was removed from the heads.
As noted earlier, the previous owner had done some head work on the car (he was an airplane mechanic and used the car as his shop car for lunch) probably chasing a bad valve or some other head issue.
You see where this is going… once the warmed engine lost the rich charge and extra advance, the charged lifters were not allowing the valves to seat properly is my guess causing the running troubles. When the engine got hot enough to have the oil loose viscosity, thus allowing the valves to more properly seat, engine ran fine and was tunable. Except for that damned vibration. Same before and after the rebuild.
So I gave it one more shot, if my theory was correct, some adjustable rockers and shorter pushrods would solve the cold , warm and hot variance in operational quality…. and I’m glad to say , it did. But the vibration remained so one final final thing was to swap out the torque converter just to see… and guess what…. It worked. Finally..
What a friggin saga. This coming from a hobbyist who’s rebuilt all manner of cars and car components.(like the auto temp II)….Not to mention remote control model cars and and boats.
On to the next phase… of making the best running car I can out of one of the most elegant designs Chrysler ever brought to market. IMO.
Why?….. because. ‘Merica!
As to sniper vs proflow systems…. I had my reasons, and they may not be yours, so go with your gut.
Jav.
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