commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I don't think the drill priming method gives you enough pressure where it would read on a mechanical gauge.
And are you spinning the drill CCW??
And are you spinning the drill CCW??
EXCELLENT point . It's rare the that oil passages line up on the first shot. Gotta keep "bumping" the engine to find the sweet spot. Good reminder, Matt.turn the engine over a few revs while priming in order to thoroughly line up all the passages and inspect for oil at the top.
Good suggustion Matt. The drill may not turn the pump fast enough to show a guage reading. Fresh oil at the rockers will let you know if the pump is working OK.Pull the valve covers and turn the engine over a few revs while priming in order to thoroughly line up all the passages and inspect for oil at the top.
I don't think the drill priming method gives you enough pressure where it would read on a mechanical gauge.
And are you spinning the drill CCW??
If you're going to rebuild it anyway I'd fire it up with an oil pressure gauge on it for 30 seconds and see if you get any pressure.
Insulation was used between the valley pan and the underside of BB intake manifolds.
Well after pulling the valley pan I found this. Looks like insulation? It's wrapped around the bottom of the push rods and no telling whats in the pan and all the oil galleys. also found this "nest" in the heat crossover. No wonder I didn't have any oil pressure!
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The valley pan was clean and solid. Did not have insulation between it and the intake.What did the valley pan look like? It shouldn't have done that but obviously it did.
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