No Spark

[furious70]

Orange box is a street replacement, chrome box is the race one.
The system operated at 9v because that's what it could get during cranking. That's the whole purpose of the ballast resistor, to let all the voltage through while cranking but limit it to 9v when running. This design was to allow the system to be at its best when cranking and not fry while running.

 

[Triple Pickle]

I agree with running a hot wire to the coil to temporarily eliminate some of the potential wiring problems. Also make darn sure that the electronic control box is grounded good. Is there a ground strap from the engine to the body? Is it making good connection?
I’m all for testing with meters and lights, but, I’m also for getting one running and being done with it. I’d buy a new electronic box and try it. If that’s not the problem, no biggie, you’ll have a spare for next time.

 

[rags]

Also make darn sure that the electronic control box is grounded good. Is there a ground strap from the engine to the body? Is it making good connection?

good point. painted box on a painted firewall...

 

[furyfever]

You said: "I agree with running a hot wire to the coil to temporarily eliminate some of the potential wiring problems."

So if I run a wire from the pos. side of battery to positive side of coil....this won't damage anything but bypass orange and chrome box without damaging anything? And it may provide spark to start car? I'll definitely make sure everything is grounded.

Thanks..

 

[traintech55]

You said: "I agree with running a hot wire to the coil to temporarily eliminate some of the potential wiring problems."

So if I run a wire from the pos. side of battery to positive side of coil....this won't damage anything but bypass orange and chrome box without damaging anything? And it may provide spark to start car? I'll definitely make sure everything is grounded.

Thanks..

If you are going to do this, then disconnect the positive wire from the coil first so current does not backfeed into the system.

 

[rags]

if current's back fed into the system it won't hurt anything so long as it's for a short duration and the key is in run. this simulates the circuit's normal state on crank. note the coil is not intended to be RUN on full voltage just started.

 

[traintech55]

if current's back fed into the system it won't hurt anything so long as it's for a short duration and the key is in run. this simulates the circuit's normal state on crank. note the coil is not intended to be RUN on full voltage just started.

I have seen where it has backfed though the system and fried the dash harness. I know because I was the one to replace the harness on a 1969 Satellite.

 

[furious70]

The coil is never intended to get 12v in oem form.

 

[Triple Pickle]

For a temporary test, you’ll be fine running 12volts to the coil. The coil gets 12 volts in the start position then , goes through the resistor in the run position. Also, make sure your coil is designed for an external resistor.
Again, ground,ground, ground.

 

[furious70]

Yes it's fine for a test, but in the start position the effective voltage is 9v because of the draw. And then the ballast resistor keeps it at 9v when the charging system is operable.

 

[Triple Pickle]

I wouldnt let it run like that, but I’ve jumped across resistors, ran hot wires to the coil and box to test them out or get home in an emergency.
In my experience, it’s usually the box gone bad. I always carry a spare and a resistor in the glove box.

 

[rags]

if there was a short in the dash harness it would have "fried" already. i said with the key in the run position. the ignition switch then takes the load for the "ign." side of the fuse box that we already know can be powered with no shorts. the hot wire to the coil only supplements what might be being lost to the engine ignition circuit itself. also i never said to RUN it hot wired, only a duration long enough to crank it and check for spark. fifteen seconds? starter button and a wire with an alligator clip. it's not a science project. and i'm with the pickle: ground, ground, ground.

 

[furyfever]

I took these photos today. Like a dumb *** I forgot to grab my voltmeter but I used his test light to check grounds and also for voltage at ECM pin 1 and pin 2. Test light lit up on both pins when key was in run position. I also pulled 2 of the 3 bulkhead firewall connectors...(Left the one to the windshield wiper motor alone)...but I did see some corrosion in there. I used a screwdriver to lightly scrape the male ends only. Was able to get some of the green oxidation off. Plugged both back in. Last thing I tried was to test for spark with jumper wire from + side of battery to + side of coil. Checked for spark on #2 plug, still did not get any spark.

 

[rags]

female socket for pin 4 looks a bit oversize. thanks for trying my idea. sorry it didn't work for you. of course test light across the coil doesn't flash when cranked?

 

[traintech55]

View attachment 282136 View attachment 282137 View attachment 282138 View attachment 282139 View attachment 282140 View attachment 282141
I took these photos today. Like a dumb *** I forgot to grab my voltmeter but I used his test light to check grounds and also for voltage at ECM pin 1 and pin 2. Test light lit up on both pins when key was in run position. I also pulled 2 of the 3 bulkhead firewall connectors...(Left the one to the windshield wiper motor alone)...but I did see some corrosion in there. I used a screwdriver to lightly scrape the male ends only. Was able to get some of the green oxidation off. Plugged both back in. Last thing I tried was to test for spark with jumper wire from + side of battery to + side of coil. Checked for spark on #2 plug, still did not get any spark.

How about taking the coil wire out of the distributor cap, and checking for spark there? You could have a bad cap and rotor.

 

[furious70]

Don't put your test light in there though, could blow the bulb. Does with an aftermarket coil anyway..

 

[furyfever]

Thanks very much guys...makes perfect sense. I'm going to try to get over there again within the next few days and check the coil wire at the cap. Would be wonderful if it was a bad rotor and/or cap. I appreciate you seeing me through this.

Bob

 

[furyfever]

I measured 14.5 volts on battery. It was still on slow charge from yesterday's visit. Right away I checked at end of wire coming out of coil. Used two different inline spark testers...No spark. Then of course I checked it coming right out of coil. No spark. Read 5 volts at +/- terminals on coil when key in run...7 volts while cranking. Checked battery after cranking right before I left =12.6 volts.

I guess I'll start to go through the troubleshooting techniques in that link/Chrysler Elect Ignition that Big John posted...unless someone has another thought.

 

[furyfever]

across +/- terminals i think should have no voltage in run. should be hot on both sides? voltage to the coil should be checked from + terminal to actual ground. why you're getting low numbers. low voltage across the coil in run could mean the ign. box is shorted internally. others should confirm or refute. hope this helps.

TY rags...Yes, this past time I measured the Coil + side of to red lead on my meter. Coil - side to black lead on meter. And I did notice this time that the readings were 1 volt lower than my first measurements in which I used frame ground to black lead on my meter. I hate to guess but it's getting to the point now...that I've been over there 5 times poking around...I'm getting tempted to tell him to order another electronic ignition. Would hate to be wrong though. Any other ideas will be appreciated.

 

[Triple Pickle]

TY rags...Yes, this past time I measured the Coil + side of to red lead on my meter. Coil - side to black lead on meter. And I did notice this time that the readings were 1 volt lower than my first measurements in which I used frame ground to black lead on my meter. I hate to guess but it's getting to the point now...that I've been over there 5 times poking around...I'm getting tempted to tell him to order another electronic ignition. Would hate to be wrong though. Any other ideas will be appreciated.

I’d have bought and paid for it myself before I messed with it this much!