I just ordered a new set and am going to go ahead and replace both sides. I need to adjust my axle shafts from replacing the bearings last year. I will have both sides off so it makes sense to go ahead and replace the shoes.
Passenger rear drum getting hot
- Thread starter Zymurgy
- Start date
I just ordered a new set and am going to go ahead and replace both sides. I need to adjust my axle shafts from replacing the bearings last year. I will have both sides off so it makes sense to go ahead and replace the shoes.
rkrochen
Senior Member
I am in agreement with this. The shorter shoe (primary shoe) needs to be on the front. The friction material in this shoe is designed to grab the drum pushing it against the longer shoe (secondary shoe) forcing it into the drum which provides the majority of the braking force.
Another thing you need to look at closely is the parking brake. You need to make sure it is completely free or it will result in the primary shoe contacting the drum and heat generation. Take a close look at the point where the shoes contact the pin at the top. The shoes must be fully in contact or you have a problem. When I look at the spring on the parking brake activator bar it is compressed which is an indication it is too tight.
Thanks, I actually thought it was the parking brake. I disconnected it this afternoon to either confirm it as the problem or not. It was not the problem.
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Of course, if you "ordered" a new set -- they are going to be the garbage of today -- and your problems will be compounded / and even worse....
The ONLY way to go is N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++ for nice smooooooth braking...
Those in the know --- know that --- and I have it for you.
The ONLY way to go is N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++ for nice smooooooth braking...
Those in the know --- know that --- and I have it for you.
There is a very specific process for adjusting wheel bearings once installed, which if not followed to the letter can or will result in problems.
It involves a big rubber mallet, and making adjustments to BOTH sides even if installing the bearings only on one side.
I had a similar problem in my first 1966 Monaco way back in 1988 - took it to a shop full of greybeards who didn't follow the shop manual procedure, and it didn't sound or feel right afterwards. I noticed within the 1st couple of miles.
I took it back with my manual in hand, aked if they followed the service manual, and I got the "I been doin' these since they were new" response. Not impressed by his blather I stood looking over the guy's shoulder and had him adjust end play as per the manual, and it was perfect, and no problems ever since.
The Goose
Senior Member
I did say "sorry for the trouble, and thank you"...
thrashingcows
Senior Member
Glad we were able to help you figure out what was going wrong....funny how something so simple can cause so much grief. And As Ross mentioned following the FSM is the best way to get your end play adjusted correctly, not too hard once you understand what's going on.
John Kirby
Active Member
As I recall there is only one end play adjustment on c bodies. It's on the passenger side. You need to have both wheels off the ground to do this. Remove the right drum and the lock tab that holds the adjuster in place. tighten the collar until it doesn't move (don't torque it real tight, just until it stops), then back it out a bit until you can reinstall the lock tab. 2 - 3 tab positions should be enough. You only need a few thousandths of end play. Leaving it too tight isn't a good thing.
If you pull out an axle make sure the thrust pin isn't dislodged in the differential. There is one on each side. Get a flashlight and actually make sure. If it falls down inside the housing it WILL destroy the differential when it eventually gets caught in the gears. The only way to fix this is to pull the differential and fish it out. Use some really thick grease to hold it in during assembly. You will know right away if it fell out when you start driving. The brake drum will grind loudly against the backing plate. One of them waste half a day fixing a dumb mistake moments.
If you pull out an axle make sure the thrust pin isn't dislodged in the differential. There is one on each side. Get a flashlight and actually make sure. If it falls down inside the housing it WILL destroy the differential when it eventually gets caught in the gears. The only way to fix this is to pull the differential and fish it out. Use some really thick grease to hold it in during assembly. You will know right away if it fell out when you start driving. The brake drum will grind loudly against the backing plate. One of them waste half a day fixing a dumb mistake moments.
Well I have had some success I was able to adjust my end play in my axel shafts. I had problems adjusting after I replaced the bushings, but I think after I drove it a bit it freed things up and was able to do it exactly by the book.
I do believe I have addressed my heat problem. I reversed the shoes to the proper location. I didn't install my new pads, because I forgot them at home.
The right side is still hotter than the other, but I think the cool side is not braking fully yet. The "hot" side is still only 150F where the last time it was 250F on a shorter drive. My front discs were 210F.
I will claim success for now. A nice long drive will give me the information I need.
I do believe I have addressed my heat problem. I reversed the shoes to the proper location. I didn't install my new pads, because I forgot them at home.
The right side is still hotter than the other, but I think the cool side is not braking fully yet. The "hot" side is still only 150F where the last time it was 250F on a shorter drive. My front discs were 210F.
I will claim success for now. A nice long drive will give me the information I need.
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@Davea Lux you are the man! Thanks so much for noticing I put my shoes on backwards. I finally got to take Goldie on an extended cruise and have no heat issues.
For the first time ever my brakes are correctly set up.
For the first time ever my brakes are correctly set up.
I love happy endings!!
I screwed so many things up on that brake job 6 years ago. I just wish I would had discovered this one many years ago, but so glad it has been solved now.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Mid to high 100s is good temp for drums in warm weather.
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