Pertronix Igniter II questions?

[Ripinator]

Edit... I have/had an old nail file type disposable thing and primarily replaced points on the rare occasions I saw them, but I don't own an actual metal point file... how many of you do?

I always used a new one-dollar bill. . .

 

[SF-66TC]

I'll throw in my two cents. I've run a Pertronix Ignitor and Ignitor Coil on my '64 GTO for almost 15 years with ZERO issues. None, zilp, zilch, nada. Plugs are stock, stock gaps and the motor is 8.8:1 to deal with the "gas" we get out here in CA. It will still smoke the tires through 2nd, chirping 3rd and starts with the bump of the key so long as there is fuel in the bowls. I attempted multiple times to install the Pertronix Ignitor and Ignitor Coil with a pass through Ballast Resistor on my '65 Chrysler 300. Each time until recently, I was never able to get the car to run right; it would always surge. I believe my problem was the reduced voltage issue I had on the ignition side of the Ballast Resistor (poor connection). Points will run on lower than required voltage but electronic ignition will not. Once I fixed the connection issue at the Ballast, the car now runs very well with the electronic conversion. This car also runs stock points and point gaps and is a sub 9.0:1 motor. With points, I had a bit of a piston slap on startup which has disappeared with the Pertronix and it starts with the bump of the key. IMO, this is a worthwhile, maintenance free upgrade.

Rexus31, what was it that you did to the connection side of the Ballast resistor - just cleaned the contacts?

 

[rexus31]

Rexus31, what was it that you did to the connection side of the Ballast resistor - just cleaned the contacts?

I had to remove the plastic cover and slightly crimp it.

 

[SF-66TC]

I had to remove the plastic cover and slightly crimp it.

What plastic cover is that? My ballast is naked on my '66

 

[cantflip]

I always used a new one-dollar bill. . .

For a light cleanup, I can see that... but square up worn points, I cant see it working so well. I have heard of this, but I have never seen it in practice or tried it myself.

 

[Ripinator]

For a light cleanup, I can see that... but square up worn points, I cant see it working so well. I have heard of this, but I have never seen it in practice or tried it myself.

Its a quick and desperate side-of-the-road tactic. . . Which sometimes works.

 

[rexus31]

What plastic cover is that? My ballast is naked on my '66

The black plastic terminal end on the Ignition wire that fastens to the Ballast. My connection was very loose causing poor voltage transfer/loss of voltage all together.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Well, I just got my old school tuneup tools in the mail...now I can do these upgrades and set everything up properly.

 

[cantflip]

Well, I just got my old school tuneup tools in the mail...now I can do these upgrades and set everything up properly.

Yes... you now have a dwell gauge to adjust your points...

 

[Carmine]

Yes... you now have a dwell gauge to adjust your points...

I thought the same thing, but I'm not going to dwell on it.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Wow...I ran right into that one

 

[Castle]

I'll throw in my two cents. I've run a Pertronix Ignitor and Ignitor Coil on my '64 GTO for almost 15 years with ZERO issues. None, zilp, zilch, nada. Plugs are stock, stock gaps and the motor is 8.8:1 to deal with the "gas" we get out here in CA. It will still smoke the tires through 2nd, chirping 3rd and starts with the bump of the key so long as there is fuel in the bowls. I attempted multiple times to install the Pertronix Ignitor and Ignitor Coil with a pass through Ballast Resistor on my '65 Chrysler 300. Each time until recently, I was never able to get the car to run right; it would always surge. I believe my problem was the reduced voltage issue I had on the ignition side of the Ballast Resistor (poor connection). Points will run on lower than required voltage but electronic ignition will not. Once I fixed the connection issue at the Ballast, the car now runs very well with the electronic conversion. This car also runs stock points and point gaps and is a sub 9.0:1 motor. With points, I had a bit of a piston slap on startup which has disappeared with the Pertronix and it starts with the bump of the key. IMO, this is a worthwhile, maintenance free upgrade.

Are you using a vacuum advance or mechanical advance pertronix?did it have much effect on your base timing spec?

 

[rexus31]

Are you using a vacuum advance or mechanical advance pertronix?did it have much effect on your base timing spec?

Stock distributor, vacuum advance with Pertronix unit replacing the points and condenser. I’m running 12 degrees initial.

 

[halifaxhops]

I really like the I version. Have seen the III bad out of the box a few times. Never really played with the II though. The III have a hot issue as noted. When I test them I hit them with a heat gun and they fail usually around 200 or so. Just my 2 cents.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I love my Ignitor III. In our experience, the Ignitor has heat problems (on a roadtrip, it would die after reaching a certain temp over, and over again

This is acceptable?

will burn up if you leave the key in the ignition position without the engine running

Points will do that for way less than $100.
If you run the hell out of your car, maybe I could see the reduced maintenance being a advantage. I would say that putting a piece in your car with no means to access replacement parts in short order is a no go for me, but with stock Chrysler ecu and.pick up coils not being stocked they are in the same gray area now. Points, condenser, and ballast resistor all fit in a little box in the glove box, a coil is as close as the local 24 hr. Auto Zone. Carrying a $100 part around as a spare and one for each car is not really acceptable either.
Maybe that how they sold 4million units, half are spares.