Popping through exhaust on acceleration

[polara71]

where would that be located?

On the firewall.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Could I disconnect the advance and drive that way to test it out? What is a good way to test it?

YES! Cap off the port on the carb, or even plug the vac advance line with a pencil or better, a golf tee if you lack the little vac caps, then, using a tachometer and timing light, watch your timing as you goose up the carburetor to say, 1k, 2k, then 3k rpm. If you lack the instruments for this, (tachometer and timing light) then take the car for a drive on the highway. THAT will demonstrate a little something.

You really need to tool up a bit if you haven't got the basic instruments for tuning your 383. Get an Actron Model 612 on eBay for $20-40, and a decent timing light to go with that.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I took some pics not the greatest but still decent, which part is supposed to move? Looks like an electrical connector attached to the block in back

View attachment 698613

OK, you can't see MUCH of your mech advance weights from just the top of your distributor after pulling the cap off, but I'll school you a little tonight.

That pointy looking collar below the rotor is called the "reluctor." The little solenoid with its flat surface facing those points picks up a weak current as the reluctor point passes by. This is referred to as the "Hall Effect" and is just induced current in that little solenoid. Your "electronic ignition" (the orange box w the big heat sunk transistor on the top surface) connects to that solenoid, gets the little induced current pulse induced by the reluctor, amplifies the **** out of that, then sends a strong square wave to your coil, which in turn multiplies the pulse by a couple thousand volts each time and sends it back to your rotor, which hopefully passes that high voltage pulse to your spark plugs. You need BRASS feeler gauge blades to gap your reluctor with that little square solenoid properly, as these things have permanent magnets, which will grab ordinary steel feeler gauge blades.

NOW, as a safety measure, you should spray sp,e penetrant/displacer/light machine oil into the advance weights underneath the plate. This was called a "breaker plate" from the halcyon days of breaker POINTS, but the phrase isn't quite appropriate for a Hall Effect distrubutor. I think its still called that though.... I recommend CLP Break Free for your advance weights. I recommend you get another distributor even more. That one looks in need of The Hopster's (halifaxhops) expert work! Get one AND his manual on electronic ignition. You REALLY NEED TO KNOW THIS ****!!!!!

 

[polarnj]

OK, you can't see MUCH of your mech advance weights from just the top of your distributor after pulling the cap off, but I'll school you a little tonight.

That pointy looking collar below the rotor is called the "reluctor." The little solenoid with its flat surface facing those points picks up a weak current as the reluctor point passes by. This is referred to as the "Hall Effect" and is just induced current in that little solenoid. Your "electronic ignition" (the orange box w the big heat sunk transistor on the top surface) connects to that solenoid, gets the little induced current pulse induced by the reluctor, amplifies the **** out of that, then sends a strong square wave to your coil, which in turn multiplies the pulse by a couple thousand volts each time and sends it back to your rotor, which hopefully passes that high voltage pulse to your spark plugs. You need BRASS feeler gauge blades to gap your reluctor with that little square solenoid properly, as these things have permanent magnets, which will grab ordinary steel feeler gauge blades.

NOW, as a safety measure, you should spray sp,e penetrant/displacer/light machine oil into the advance weights underneath the plate. This was called a "breaker plate" from the halcyon days of breaker POINTS, but the phrase isn't quite appropriate for a Hall Effect distrubutor. I think its still called that though.... I recommend CLP Break Free for your advance weights. I recommend you get another distributor even more. That one looks in need of The Hopster's (halifaxhops) expert work! Get one AND his manual on electronic ignition. You REALLY NEED TO KNOW THIS ****!!!!!

Thx for the info !
If I did get a different distributor which would you recommend?

Also, with regard to the advance weights, are they underneath the rotor, i.e. not right on top like in the GM cars? That might be why I thought they were stuck