Power window issues.......

[commando1]

Oh, I see how it is.....

Anybody here that wants it can have it. Just ask....

 

[commando1]

When trying to figure out in your head the schematic of these power window switches, refer to a house hold wiring diagram for wiring a light with two three way switches in series. Only double. one for UP and one for Down.

 

[bluefury361]

Not sure this will help with this particular issue,

The feed to the curcuit in my 69 is different then the earlier curcuit layout. (My 65 Dodge Coronet is like this). The switch and motor tests are all similar though.

My issue is with.... once all the tests show positive, and the motor still wont operate... what next...? Problem I have is with just one window motor, which is new and tests good on the bench.
I'm taking the car to a pro electrical shop tomorrow, Will let you know what turns up.

 

[Greg B.]

When trying to figure out in your head the schematic of these power window switches, refer to a house hold wiring diagram for wiring a light with two three way switches in series. Only double. one for UP and one for Down.

The thing is, there's some magic going on in those switches that the schematic doesn't illustrate. I have never been able to understand those 3-way circuits.

 

[commando1]

Umm...
This is also why I intentionally bought my DD F-150 new with Armstrong windows.

Actually had one person along for the ride and he couldn't figure out how to put the window down. Never saw a crank before...

 

[Moparjohn]

Any chance the new motor was wired backwards and you need to switch the geen and purple wires to change polarity? like it's shorting itself? BTW I have the same problem , on my right rear window. Old one worked a while, now same as you with new. John

 

[bluefury361]

Any chance the new motor was wired backwards and you need to switch the geen and purple wires to change polarity? like it's shorting itself? BTW I have the same problem , on my right rear window. Old one worked a while, now same as you with new. John

We tracked it down to the left rear window control button in the driver door gang switch.
It was making a contact for the power both up and down, which is why I was getting a signal both ways, but not allowing the ground to complete inside the switch.
I got the switch apart and cleaned it up so it would work on the bench, I'll try it in the car tomorrow. It may have to be replaced...

I HOPE ALL YOU GUYS ON THE EAST COAST ARE SAFE AND WELL...!!!!!!

 

[polara71]

I am, it looks like the coast got hammered.

 

[commando1]

It was making a contact for the power both up and down, which is why I was getting a signal both ways, but not allowing the ground to complete inside the switch.

It's not grounded.
You're going to have to trace the wire that your schematic shows as a the ground wire with a continuity tester.

s_dancing2:s_dancing2:s_dancing2:s_dancing2:s_dancing2:s_dancing2:s_dancing2:s_dancing2:

Please, folks. Hold the applause...:rolling:
Chalk up another one for the $2.99 test light.

Good job, Will for sticking to it and not letting it defeat you. Good job.

 

[bluefury361]

Chalk up another one for the $2.99 test light.

We basicly eliminated every possible cause and that led to the gang switch ground. (only one ground in the circuit... body to the gang switch. The motors do not have individual grounds to the body). It took removing the switch and tracing the curcuits with a multi meter to nail it down.

Glad to hear your OK Dave.......

 

[polara71]

Thank you for noticing Will ..........