He went home early no work he said. Besides you've seen my door rate I can't afford my techs time
Power window motors
- Thread starter Joeharley01
- Start date
He went home early no work he said. Besides you've seen my door rate I can't afford my techs time
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
And your customers are expected to support him...
twostick
Senior Member
Mount the regulator back in the door sans motor and make note of where the bolt holes are for the motor. Then drill three access holes thru the inner door to put the bolts thru. Then install the motor.
If you need to remove another one, drill the access holes first and remove the motor without disturbing the regulator.
There will be less bloodshed this way.
Kevin
If you need to remove another one, drill the access holes first and remove the motor without disturbing the regulator.
There will be less bloodshed this way.
Kevin
All we do is warranty jobs nowadays no one can afford to fix them so they trade them its a perfect scam IMHO 96 month financing biweekly payments all just a house of cards waiting to fall...but yes please support your local dealer they may not be around much longer - whats that song video killed the radio star? Internet killed the car salesman just hit the BIN button and the factory will deliver it to your door...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
You gotta admit, the system is broken. Seriously broken. There has to be a paradigm shift in the industry. The current model of manufacturers distributing to independent businessmen to retail to the end consumer is a horror show.
I think that there will always be salesmen shilling something as long as there are buyers willing to pony up their beads and trinkets to have what they otherwise can't or won't make for themselves. Where things have gone wrong IMHO is the manufacturers believe they are better at selling then the Dealers. The giant conglomerate cares little for mr & mrs america where the Dealer depends on them. Calling up Corporate FCA to demand they fix your defective out of warranty by 50 miles POS won't get you to far but ask the Dealer to help he has to decide how much your business is worth. In my store we would goodwill the repair as our local reputation is more valuable then the bad press you will spread. Mothercorp not so much otherwise fiascos like VW and GM would never have happened. Corporate greed is just that. Then again ive always been a microeconomic kinda guy not macro. Im curious as to which process you prefer the No haggle thats the price and do you want fries with that like Saturn tried or the down and dirty battle of wits me versus you adversarial method? I ask because ive tried both and in both cases the customer still tries to negotiate terms or conditions even when told no.
78Brougham
"Chump"
Sorry but I disagree, if you have to drill holes in the doors you're doing something wrong. The po of my 67 did that on the left rear door and mangled the EFF out of it to the point that I may never get it right. He must have learned his lesson cuz the other doors were apart but no other extra holes drilled. Put the drill down and FOLLOW the FSM and you won't get hurt. That's my advice.Mount the regulator back in the door sans motor and make note of where the bolt holes are for the motor. Then drill three access holes thru the inner door to put the bolts thru. Then install the motor.
If you need to remove another one, drill the access holes first and remove the motor without disturbing the regulator.
There will be less bloodshed this way.
Kevin
Anybody have a set of window rollers from a 67. The ones that move vertically, they have two wheels on them and mount to the bottom of the glass.
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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I'm in complete agreement with this. If you've got to drill holes you're not doing something right.
twostick
Senior Member
It's not a matter of right or wrong, it's a matter of with 3 holes drilled, I can swap that motor in 10 minutes. No way you're getting that regulator safely out of the door in 10 minutes following the FSM let alone swap the motors and get it back in.
Maybe time isn't an issue for you but I can assure you after you have had to swap out 2 or 3 used motors that failed in the same doors you will appreciate that the worst part of the job will be getting the door panel off. Been there done that and hoping these new Dorman/Denso motors I got will be the last time I ever have to see the inside of those particular doors.
Kevin
Maybe time isn't an issue for you but I can assure you after you have had to swap out 2 or 3 used motors that failed in the same doors you will appreciate that the worst part of the job will be getting the door panel off. Been there done that and hoping these new Dorman/Denso motors I got will be the last time I ever have to see the inside of those particular doors.
Kevin
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
The engineers forgot the holes. Put the holes back that they left out.
Formals have the holes. Somebody upstairs listened to downstairs.
Formals have the holes. Somebody upstairs listened to downstairs.
twostick
Senior Member
I wonder if that was a later revision Stan. It's been a while but I don't recall seeing them on my 76 Newport parts car. IIRC I had to slash some access ports in the inner door with a chisel. Or maybe Canadian production was different.
Kevin
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Can't speak for any cars except the Formals I have sliced my knuckles on. They had holes.
There were even access holes to get at the door handles.
78Brougham
"Chump"
My formal does have holes and its a cinch to pull the motors. My imperial on the other hand does not. And as I mentioned, the PO used the hammer and chisel method and drilled holes. He butchered it! The spring unwound and the motor couldn't lift the window without manual assistance. Then the glue holding the window into the bottom channel have out, from the manual assist. Then found the broken guide. It's been a nightmare. I got so frustrated I managed to get the window lined up and pulled the plug on the motor. I'll attack it again this summer.
All I'm suggesting is to use the FSM first before just drilling holes and chiseling holes willy-nilly in a perfectly good door. And most of all not get hurt!
All I'm suggesting is to use the FSM first before just drilling holes and chiseling holes willy-nilly in a perfectly good door. And most of all not get hurt!
78Brougham
"Chump"
Time shouldn't be the issue. Quality should be. When i saw how my inner door panel was butchered I couldn't believe it! Just to save a few minutes work? Really? Not to mention the butcher job didn't accomplish a thing. This is a hobby...we're not working flat rate and trying to get-r-done so we can go to the bar and compare pay stubs.
twostick
Senior Member
I'm not sure where you got the idea that drilling three 1/2"ish holes equals a hatchet job but that's not what I was proposing.
Removing a window motor via FSM is a PIA period. According to Stan the factory finally came to that same realization too and made changing them on a Formal less of a PIA by making the doors with the holes for access.
You are however welcome to change your window hardware any way you see fit as am I.
Kevin
Removing a window motor via FSM is a PIA period. According to Stan the factory finally came to that same realization too and made changing them on a Formal less of a PIA by making the doors with the holes for access.
You are however welcome to change your window hardware any way you see fit as am I.
Kevin
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
For no extra charge I'll throw in a "Back in the Day".
You can tell a truly original first-gen Mustang today by the hole in the front wheel wells (to access the upper ball joint grease fitting) that every mechanic made at the car's first GOF (grease, oil, filter) when new.
S. O. P.
You can tell a truly original first-gen Mustang today by the hole in the front wheel wells (to access the upper ball joint grease fitting) that every mechanic made at the car's first GOF (grease, oil, filter) when new.
S. O. P.
rexus31
Senior Member
How do you propose to safely support the regulator so you do not lose a finger or break a forearm? I will be swapping all 4 of my motors out soon and would rather leave the regulators in place. The quarters are especially a PITA to R&R.
twostick
Senior Member
Locate and carefully drill a hole over each mounting bolt on the motor that is big enough to put a 1/4 drive socket thru and just reach in and remove the motor. The glass counterbalances the killer clockspring so the regulator pretty much stays wherever you put it.
I've only changed them on 4 door cars so I'm not familiar with how the rear motor is situated in relation to the inner panel ie is it hiding where you can't get a drill in to make access holes but if you can get at them it's rinse and repeat the front procedure.
Kevin
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Make a template off of the replacement motor.
78Brougham
"Chump"
This is where I got the idea, no matter, we'll just have a gentlemen's disagreement on how to do it. All cars are not designed the same, and procedures should not be painted with a broad brush. If you pull the regulator of as an assembly, per the fsm, you lesson the chance of unloading the spring causing an accident.
Maybe they don't have a replacement yet or they just need to do the puck mod. Also, how do you know the orrientation of the motor? Motor at 12/9/6/3 o'clock or somewhere in between? Which is why i think my 67 was hacked up like that, and the spring unwound.
No argument, just sayin I think it best to give the FSM a glance for safety sake.
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