Power window motors

[twostick]

This is where I got the idea, no matter, we'll just have a gentlemen's disagreement on how to do it. All cars are not designed the same, and procedures should not be painted with a broad brush. If you pull the regulator of as an assembly, per the fsm, you lesson the chance of unloading the spring causing an accident.

Maybe they don't have a replacement yet or they just need to do the puck mod. Also, how do you know the orrientation of the motor? Motor at 12/9/6/3 o'clock or somewhere in between? Which is why i think my 67 was hacked up like that, and the spring unwound.
No argument, just sayin I think it best to give the FSM a glance for safety sake.

Just so we're clear the car I hacked on was my very rusty parts hulk. I certainly don't recommend that procedure on something you care about.

The motors really can't be easily clocked in the wrong position especially if you make note of how the old one comes out. Not a lot of room inside the door to get it wrong.

In my case getting bit by the clockspring wasn't the worst part altho it could have been. The worst part was trying to wrestle that big long assembly out thru that small hole in the bottom of the door. It comes out just one way and goes back in one way. It will ALMOST go in or out at least 100 ways.

Kevin

 

[Dobalovr]

The worst part was trying to wrestle that big long assembly out thru that small hole in the bottom of the door.

Exactly my point so now that its out and the spring has sprung how do i put it all back together with the new motor? Lots of advice on what Not to do but that horse has left the stable. Best that I can see is in a vice c clamp spring use vice grips to re-tension spring drill hole thru regulator insert bolt to maintain tension attach motor place in door bolt it back up remove temp bolt and pray....any thoughts on this?

 

[twostick]

IIRC you can install the motor on the regulator and use it to wind up the clockspring. The motor will hold the spring. Make sure you put the spring on correctly. The ONE I did this way I got on backwards and it now helps the motor wind the window down instead of up. Goes down REAL fast. Up not so much.

The trick then will be to fish it all in thru the hole and get it bolted back into the door. All without setting fire to the car and walking away.

Kevin

 

[78Brougham]

That's how I had to redo the tension on mine also. Get some good clamps and/or vice grips. You'll have to put some tension it manually till you can get it to a spot where the teeth will engage,and have enough tension so the spring assists it enough to actually do some good. Had to do mine twice because the first time I didn't have enough tension on it. As Kevin said, the motor will hold it all in place. Plenty of patience and of course beer.

 

[cantflip]

That's how I had to redo the tension on mine also. Get some good clamps and/or vice grips. You'll have to put some tension it manually till you can get it to a spot where the teeth will engage,and have enough tension so the spring assists it enough to actually do some good. Had to do mine twice because the first time I didn't have enough tension on it. As Kevin said, the motor will hold it all in place. Plenty of patience and of course beer.

Is this what you're bugging me about? I considered it case closed on the second post. Then I was mildly amused while you guys debate the "Chisel the crap out of the door" plan. If you feel it appropriate, at least use a drill. As far as rewinding the regulator, not fun and very dangerous... As said above, Get it started and use the motor... and maybe a bench vise... above all watch your fingers.

 

[Jeff]

I agree that the most common problem is the plastic/rubber gear that rips apart.The electrical motor itself is usually working order unless water got into the motor housing.
...
The root of the problem is this...lack of maintenance on the regulator.
Dried up old lube in the window tracks and pivot points of the regulator makes the motor work HARD and then rips the gear.
I always open up the doors and lube the crap out of the guts and work the motor till it goes up and down effortlessly.

Regarding the disintegrating "puck" problem, would you hear the motor run continuously if the pucks are the problem? My windows go up or down a bit and then stop, but I don't hear the motor running inside the door. It makes me think it is a lubrication or mechanical issue rather than the puck problem.

 

[Carmine]

Regarding the disintegrating "puck" problem, would you hear the motor run continuously if the pucks are the problem? My windows go up or down a bit and then stop, but I don't hear the motor running inside the door. It makes me think it is a lubrication or mechanical issue rather than the puck problem.

Yes. Puck it.

 

[rapidtrans]

I used this to remove old hardened grease from my quarter window guides and regulator. That old stuff was rock hard and binding up the rollers and crank mechanism.
I soaked the assembly i removed from car to repair with this stuff and used a brush on the stubborn stuff. Everything cleaned up like new.
Since i had the interior panel off the other side too. I sprayed everything i could get at and let it soak overnight. I used a shower style back-brush that fit down thru the top with the window fully lowered and scrubbed everything i could reach. Lay a rag along the bottom of the door or qtr. panel to catch the crud.
I used a white lithium & silicone grease, ran the windows up and down a few times to spread the stuff, they work fine now.
I don't think these qtr windows ever operated as easily as the door glass due to the odd travel and number of roller/guides they use.
This is a 65 Monaco but is common to Chrysler and Plymouth 2dr hdtps.

 

[Jeff]

View attachment 97421
I used this to remove old hardened grease from my quarter window guides and regulator. That old stuff was rock hard and binding up the rollers and crank mechanism.
I soaked the assembly i removed from car to repair with this stuff and used a brush on the stubborn stuff. Everything cleaned up like new.
Since i had the interior panel off the other side too. I sprayed everything i could get at and let it soak overnight. I used a shower style back-brush that fit down thru the top with the window fully lowered and scrubbed everything i could reach. Lay a rag along the bottom of the door or qtr. panel to catch the crud.
I used a white lithium & silicone grease, ran the windows up and down a few times to spread the stuff, they work fine now.
I don't think these qtr windows ever operated as easily as the door glass due to the odd travel and number of roller/guides they use.
This is a 65 Monaco but is common to Chrysler and Plymouth 2dr hdtps.

This is very helpful. I sprayed white lithium grease on the horizontal tracks and regulator and both sides are now moving up and down, although it is very clunky with some binding in spots (also, one of my switches only works in one direction). Sometimes it stalls and I have to go the other direction to free it. After I did that work, I read about cleaning out the old grease, which I failed to do. I will do that now, as best I can with the parts installed, and then regrease it. Did you put white lithium grease on the vertical tracks and the plastic rollers, or just the horizontal tracks and the regulator?

 

[rapidtrans]

I greased the tracks and let the rollers and guides spread it as i ran the windows up/down a few times. I also sprayed the regulator at all moving points. My windows are manuals but cleaning should be the same. Maybe cover the motor on yours. The intermittent switch sounds like it might be going bad. I replaced all three switches on my 13 yr old Neon. Symptoms sounded the same.

 

[dart4forte]

Got my new motors yesterday from Rock Auto

 

[1978 NYB]

Regarding the disintegrating "puck" problem, would you hear the motor run continuously if the pucks are the problem? My windows go up or down a bit and then stop, but I don't hear the motor running inside the door. It makes me think it is a lubrication or mechanical issue rather than the puck problem.

Yes, if you hear the motor running and the glass isn't moving it is a puck problem. I would find Mr.C's thread on how to repair it.

 

[1978 NYB]

I'm telling everybody that it is very dangerous to unbolt the motor from the regulator. I have messed with the motors on my Formal a couple of times now. And even though I have the FSM's I think I'm smarter than the FSM. WRONG!

I can tell you for sure (on Formal's) that you have to drill a hole through both arms of the regulator to keep the arms from moving and that damn spring killing you. There is no hole in that door to drill the hole in the arms. You will have to drill a hole in the door so you can drill a hole in the arms. Once the regulator is bolted you can unbolt the motor.

I'm going to have to read the FSDM again....

Mr. C. your thoughts on this?

 

[Dobalovr]

I'm telling everybody that it is very dangerous to unbolt the motor from the regulator. I have messed with the motors on my Formal a couple of times now. And even though I have the FSM's I think I'm smarter than the FSM. WRONG!

I can tell you for sure (on Formal's) that you have to drill a hole through both arms of the regulator to keep the arms from moving and that damn spring killing you. There is no hole in that door to drill the hole in the arms. You will have to drill a hole in the door so you can drill a hole in the arms. Once the regulator is bolted you can unbolt the motor.

I'm going to have to read the FSDM again....

Mr. C. your thoughts on this?

Yup do not unbolt motor from regulator without securing the arms either in the door or outside in a vise with a bolt through the arms.

 

[commando1]

I have changed out an ungodly amount of P.W. motors on Formals. Never secured the regulators.
Three bolts off.
R&R motor.
Three bolts on.

Now about those $&@#-ing door panels. . .