Problem Solved - so far!

[Snotty]

I hope all is well and the issue is gone for good this time. I personally think it wasn't cleaning the #8 connect that had any effect on your charging. For all intensive purposes you should be able to completely have that connector unplugged and the car would still run - as it doesn't complete any kind of circuit or mix in with the charging system. I do think when you unplugged all 5 of the connectors you might have loosened some trapped dirt, dust or debris. Or maybe the connector wasn't fully seated and wasn't completing the circuit. Which could explain why during turns or random days it decides to run fine. Physics doing its work.
Theres also the possibility that when you replaced the old starter relay - that it had lost some of its continuity and when replaced, it finally gave back some of the lost voltage - but never truly fixed your real problem.

No one has mentioned it and I'm very surprised. Have you checked all your grounds? Are they all clean and not corroded? Are any on fresh or heavily painted surfaces e.g. on the block or fender? As that can give you problems. Do you have the battery grounded to the engine - and if so - do you have an additional body ground as stated in the FSM. I personally have grounding straps and connections through the bay. Battery to intake. Intake to voltage regulator. Coil to block. Battery to fender. Finally - i know you have already replaced the alternator so it should be clean. The alternator itself is grounded through its case and through the mounting brackets to the engine. Ensure those are clean and not too dirty. All best wishes

- Greer

Hey, I appreciate your words! It's clear that you read the previous posts. Excellent! Seriously, thanks!

I could have some corroded grounds; that is a clear possibility.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I hope all is well and the issue is gone for good this time. No one has mentioned it and I'm very surprised. Have you checked all your grounds? Are they all clean and not corroded? Are any on fresh or heavily painted surfaces e.g. on the block or fender? As that can give you problems. Do you have the battery grounded to the engine - and if so - do you have an additional body ground as stated in the FSM. I personally have grounding straps and connections through the bay. Battery to intake. Intake to voltage regulator. Coil to block. Battery to fender. Finally - i know you have already replaced the alternator so it should be clean. The alternator itself is grounded through its case and through the mounting brackets to the engine. Ensure those are clean and not too dirty. All best wishes

- Greer

I make a grounding run from the battery to the block, to the coil and alternator, to the firewall, with second branches to the fender and radiator support. I plan to pick up the front lights on their own ground all the way to the battery ASAP, when I do the headlight relays and that new harness.

In "electron flow theory" the NEGATIVE is the SOURCE of current. For these old machines with thermal electro-mech tech, that is a GOOD paradigm to stick with. Ground liberally.

 

[Snotty]

Well, it's not fixed. For a brief moment last night, as I started it up and turned on the lights, the alternator was showing discharge. I backed up, put it in drive and, viola!, it returned to charging and all was bright and well.

Boo!

 

[Fury440]

Maybe check the voltage regulator to ground connection.

 

[rags]

if a it's a rebuilt alternator, not known good used, next time it stops charging do a field ground test just to confirm that the alternator is good. agree with all the ground posts above. people never consider checking the alternator case ground when doing a diag. there's a reason why 100A alts have a dedicated ground lead. it's 'cause a case ground's not sufficient.