saylor
Senior Member
budd brakes...
anyone want to work a deal on these? I don't want them.
anyone want to work a deal on these? I don't want them.
PS23K8D191537 04/09/1968 W. H. Humphreys
- Thread starter saylor
- Start date
saylor
Senior Member
can anyone with a 68 parts book confirm torsion bars are larger dia. between 383 and 440 equipped cars? I think yes they are thicker but need to confirm. is the head end hex end where it stabs into the arm all the same size?
how bout front sway bar dia.? do the 440 equipped cars get a thicker sway bar?
it looks like the upper arms are the same across all fury models.
the lower arms are different for drum/disc cars.
can I take a whole drum front end soup to nuts and swap it?
how bout front sway bar dia.? do the 440 equipped cars get a thicker sway bar?
it looks like the upper arms are the same across all fury models.
the lower arms are different for drum/disc cars.
can I take a whole drum front end soup to nuts and swap it?
saylor
Senior Member
one pressure washer + 2 cans of easy bake later . . .
still some spots to go, but most of it is degreased
still some spots to go, but most of it is degreased
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
The underhood cleaned up really nice, so you want to go from Budd disc's back to drums? The parts are out there for the Budds so why not keep them.
saylor
Senior Member
I have a whole ECI disc conversion I can bolt right on to here, so I'm lookin to get rid of the budds brakes and lower arms and spindle. I may keep the upper arms I'm not sure yet.
saylor
Senior Member
Engine Bay Wiring Harness prep for surgery. have to fix the ALT / AMP wires on the middle firewall connector, the coil wire, BATT cables, and spruce everything up:
saylor
Senior Member
im sitting here waiting for my tesa wiring harness tape to get here from blamazon and I was thinking . . . about putting the headlights onto relays. seems like this would be the time to wire that in.
and I have to wire in the electric fan relay from cold case. and I plan on running a holley blue pump = another relay. and one for an amp = another relay + big fuse.
so now I'm looking at a 6-relay weatherproof box for offroad jeeps . . . but anyways - back to the headlights.
looking in the FSM, it looks like the headlight switch in the dash just turns on the lights overall, and the high/low setting/choice all comes from the foot/floor switch.
1968 FSM ch. 8-128 fig.23 - front end lighting - fury and v.i.p. shows bulkhead disconnect position X (L4-16V*) and Y (L3-16R) as making the dual headlight circuit. these 2 wires go to into the 1st left headlamp (top or bottom lamp i dunno would have to go look at my car) and daisy chain thru the other 3 headlamps.
2 wires come into the 1st headlamp, but 3 wires come out and continue the daisy chain - we pick up wire (L9E-16BK) at the 1st headlamp and it runs thru the remaining lamps - what kind of witchcraft is this?
but - and maybe more to the point - could we just cut X and Y and run those wires thru relay and jump back onto where we cut from, thereby sending the relayed power down the original wire to the lamps? Could I use 1 relay for both X and Y just pin them together on the in/trigger and split them on the out/+power? or does this deserve 2 relays - one for X and 1 for Y ?
trying not to melt my freshly repaired wiring harness -
- saylor
and I have to wire in the electric fan relay from cold case. and I plan on running a holley blue pump = another relay. and one for an amp = another relay + big fuse.
so now I'm looking at a 6-relay weatherproof box for offroad jeeps . . . but anyways - back to the headlights.
looking in the FSM, it looks like the headlight switch in the dash just turns on the lights overall, and the high/low setting/choice all comes from the foot/floor switch.
1968 FSM ch. 8-128 fig.23 - front end lighting - fury and v.i.p. shows bulkhead disconnect position X (L4-16V*) and Y (L3-16R) as making the dual headlight circuit. these 2 wires go to into the 1st left headlamp (top or bottom lamp i dunno would have to go look at my car) and daisy chain thru the other 3 headlamps.
2 wires come into the 1st headlamp, but 3 wires come out and continue the daisy chain - we pick up wire (L9E-16BK) at the 1st headlamp and it runs thru the remaining lamps - what kind of witchcraft is this?
but - and maybe more to the point - could we just cut X and Y and run those wires thru relay and jump back onto where we cut from, thereby sending the relayed power down the original wire to the lamps? Could I use 1 relay for both X and Y just pin them together on the in/trigger and split them on the out/+power? or does this deserve 2 relays - one for X and 1 for Y ?
trying not to melt my freshly repaired wiring harness -
- saylor
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
everything you just said could be in chinese for all I know.
-try not fry
-try not fry
saylor
Senior Member
thank you, captain.
TLDR = 2 wires feed the headlights. I want to run my headlights thru a relay. how do I do it without melting my car?
TLDR = 2 wires feed the headlights. I want to run my headlights thru a relay. how do I do it without melting my car?
saylor
Senior Member
saylor
Senior Member
Catalog
" ...The original wire harness can be opened at the area approximately between the front wheel and the radiator core support. At this part of the car’s wiring there will be only one wire for the Low Beams and another wire for the High Beams. These two headlight wires will be interrupted and detoured through the relays. "
" ...The original wire harness can be opened at the area approximately between the front wheel and the radiator core support. At this part of the car’s wiring there will be only one wire for the Low Beams and another wire for the High Beams. These two headlight wires will be interrupted and detoured through the relays. "
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
The headlight relay's are a good idea and easy to do. The above diagram should get you on track.
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
Dang! I never got notifications for this thread. I've been missing out! Love Slovaceks, btw. You should check out Fischers.
saylor
Senior Member
I'm tryin to stay busy over here in the frozen tundra
lookin for some kinda relay box. if you blamazon it, there is a cheapo $12 dolla one with 5 relay spots, and a $40 dollar hella version with 4 relay spots...that's all I find other than going to a yard and raping one outta something.
a trip to altex may be in my near future, but I'm not sure if their electronic enclosures are IP66 weatherproof o-ring type of setups. and they usually have screw lids and not hinge lids IIRC.
was looking at various wifi and cable outdoor mounting boxes, but the dimensions and lid hinge placements are all meh.
ammo box looks kind of large.
plano old school tackle box meh.
I need to fit 6 relays. I hope that's all I end up with.
lookin for some kinda relay box. if you blamazon it, there is a cheapo $12 dolla one with 5 relay spots, and a $40 dollar hella version with 4 relay spots...that's all I find other than going to a yard and raping one outta something.
a trip to altex may be in my near future, but I'm not sure if their electronic enclosures are IP66 weatherproof o-ring type of setups. and they usually have screw lids and not hinge lids IIRC.
was looking at various wifi and cable outdoor mounting boxes, but the dimensions and lid hinge placements are all meh.
ammo box looks kind of large.
plano old school tackle box meh.
I need to fit 6 relays. I hope that's all I end up with.
saylor
Senior Member
windshield washer pump anyone ?
or do I just change it to universal and keep moving?
ANCO Windshield Washer Pumps 65-01
or do I just change it to universal and keep moving?
ANCO Windshield Washer Pumps 65-01
saylor
Senior Member
so I was following the FSM so closely (wiring harness = rocket surgery) I forgot to do the mad / nacho ammeter bypass... so I had to undo some things I had just fixed. getting on that 2-step-back dance move Horvath was doing the other day
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
I invented it myself.
saylor
Senior Member
hey hang on a sec - is this the stock washer pump on the bottom of this tank?
saylor
Senior Member
new middle bulkhead connector w/ bypass wires, new BATT cable. old damaged bulkhead below it. also moved fusible link from this end to the starter relay post end for better access
saylor
Senior Member
some wiring pain:
this weeks task is adding 6 relays (omg becky so many wiring).
1.) lo lights, 2.) hi lights, 3.) fan, 4.) fuel pump, 5.) wolo horn, 6.) spare/unused.
so I got to engineering:
I got a nifty hinged lid waterproof box off blamazon - its like 7" x 5" x4" or so.
piece of aluminum stock with drill holes to mount the relays to. 3 of those drill holes mount the bar stock to the back wall of the box interior.
1 power distribution block (gold thing under plastic) - 1x4ga in, 4x10ga out.
at the bottom is an ANL fuse holder w/100A fuse.
the relays I bought have the fuse built in onto the top of the relay on pin#30. left one fuse installed for pic.
this weeks task is adding 6 relays (omg becky so many wiring).
1.) lo lights, 2.) hi lights, 3.) fan, 4.) fuel pump, 5.) wolo horn, 6.) spare/unused.
so I got to engineering:
I got a nifty hinged lid waterproof box off blamazon - its like 7" x 5" x4" or so.
piece of aluminum stock with drill holes to mount the relays to. 3 of those drill holes mount the bar stock to the back wall of the box interior.
1 power distribution block (gold thing under plastic) - 1x4ga in, 4x10ga out.
at the bottom is an ANL fuse holder w/100A fuse.
the relays I bought have the fuse built in onto the top of the relay on pin#30. left one fuse installed for pic.
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