Howdy On cleaning up carbon build up I was taught to get the motor hot than pour in a 1/2 quart ice cold water and ATF mixture, while keeping the RPM's high. This was the first thing that I did to every Mopar that I bought in the 70/80's. On winter storage I treat the fuel than I park them, I only start them if I can drive them at least 100+ miles. Case in point I fired up our 09 Charger SRT and we went on a 250 mile ride, our 15 Scat Pack and 70 Convertible. are still hibernating.
Question on sticky intake valve(s)
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I agree, water is not compressible. Which is why adding it must be done slowly and in moderation. Once it gets past the venturi and throttle plates, it is more vapor than liquid, I suspect.
In those earlier times, there were carb and engine issues many have either forgotten about or have limited awareness of. For example, the older driver that bought a 4bbl V-8 and after 30K miles, the secondaries would not open as they'd never been open since new. OR the engine that would be quiet and idle smooth, but not run past 40mph, so it needed "the soot blowen out of it" so it would run better, for example.
In our modern times, I suspect that if a "new person to the hobby" tried one of those "always worked for me" concoctions, after the first snaps, crackles, and POPSSS that they'd immediately cease and head to the auto supply for some "chemicals".
CBODY67
In those earlier times, there were carb and engine issues many have either forgotten about or have limited awareness of. For example, the older driver that bought a 4bbl V-8 and after 30K miles, the secondaries would not open as they'd never been open since new. OR the engine that would be quiet and idle smooth, but not run past 40mph, so it needed "the soot blowen out of it" so it would run better, for example.
In our modern times, I suspect that if a "new person to the hobby" tried one of those "always worked for me" concoctions, after the first snaps, crackles, and POPSSS that they'd immediately cease and head to the auto supply for some "chemicals".
CBODY67
Jakter
Well-Known Member
Italian tune-up.
fury fan
Senior Member
Some years ago I made a water injection setup using a bottle of some sort, it had a tiny vent hole to allow air in, then had an aquarium stone attached to a hose in the bottle, then that hose attached to a vacuum hose on the engine. The aquarium stone decreased the flow rate. A bottle of fluid (I used WS washer fluid with alcohol in it) would last a day-trip or so. One could make a 'jet' of sorts from brass tubing to slow things down if needed (install it in the vacuum hose).
Anyway - I can't say I ever noticed a difference in anything, but it felt like I was doing something creative and worthwhile for my engine.
Sometimes feelings is what we're really after.
Anyway - I can't say I ever noticed a difference in anything, but it felt like I was doing something creative and worthwhile for my engine.
Sometimes feelings is what we're really after.
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
Valves sticking in the guides? Put a timing light on the rockers to diagnose. If the valve is sticking, the timing light will catch it sticking open part of the time.
To clean the valve stem, valve guide, and valve seat.
Bring piston to top dead center on compression stroke.
Remove valve spring and valve seal.
Put short rubber hose on valve guide.
Fill hose with bug juice of choice. About two ounces. I like "parts" cleaner and lacquer thinner.
Let soak.
Put drill chuck with no drill attached to the drill chuck on the valve stem.
Move valve up, down and rotate with drill chuck.
Continue until valve is "completely" free to move and hits the valve seat with a nice clicking sound in any position of rotation. The valve stem, the valve guide, and the valve seat are now clean. And ready for pre-lube of choice before startup. So as not to stick from friction dry heat on startup.
Now, to clean the back side of the valve. Thats a completely different pain in the butt program. And well worth the effort if you have a significant (severe) crust up.
Hold the valve positively closed any way you see fit. I hold it closed with a small wire around the valve retainer lock groove that I hang from the hood with a bungie cord.
Fill a rubber hose with a cleaner of choice and see if the now clean valve will seal the cleaner in the combustion space "just" between the guide and the valve. Not up into the intake or exhaust runner. About 6 ounces.
Rotate the engine just enough to use an endoscope through the spark plug hole to see if the valve is leaking or if it's holding the cleaning fluid.
If it seals, then let it soak for days, weeks, months. As long as it takes.
Occasionally rotate the engine just enough to drop the piston to get a look at the back side of the valve when you lower it into the cylinder with the drill chuck without dropping the valve into the cylinder.
Rotate the engine to bottom dead center WITH THE DRILL CHUCK STILL ATTACHED to the valve stem.
Blow compressed air into the cylinder through the spark plug hole.
Softly tap the drill chuck repeatedly to blow the soft junk off the underside of the valve.
Wash, rinse, repeat as needed. Yes, the soft junk goes up into the runners.
This works.
To clean the valve stem, valve guide, and valve seat.
Bring piston to top dead center on compression stroke.
Remove valve spring and valve seal.
Put short rubber hose on valve guide.
Fill hose with bug juice of choice. About two ounces. I like "parts" cleaner and lacquer thinner.
Let soak.
Put drill chuck with no drill attached to the drill chuck on the valve stem.
Move valve up, down and rotate with drill chuck.
Continue until valve is "completely" free to move and hits the valve seat with a nice clicking sound in any position of rotation. The valve stem, the valve guide, and the valve seat are now clean. And ready for pre-lube of choice before startup. So as not to stick from friction dry heat on startup.
Now, to clean the back side of the valve. Thats a completely different pain in the butt program. And well worth the effort if you have a significant (severe) crust up.
Hold the valve positively closed any way you see fit. I hold it closed with a small wire around the valve retainer lock groove that I hang from the hood with a bungie cord.
Fill a rubber hose with a cleaner of choice and see if the now clean valve will seal the cleaner in the combustion space "just" between the guide and the valve. Not up into the intake or exhaust runner. About 6 ounces.
Rotate the engine just enough to use an endoscope through the spark plug hole to see if the valve is leaking or if it's holding the cleaning fluid.
If it seals, then let it soak for days, weeks, months. As long as it takes.
Occasionally rotate the engine just enough to drop the piston to get a look at the back side of the valve when you lower it into the cylinder with the drill chuck without dropping the valve into the cylinder.
Rotate the engine to bottom dead center WITH THE DRILL CHUCK STILL ATTACHED to the valve stem.
Blow compressed air into the cylinder through the spark plug hole.
Softly tap the drill chuck repeatedly to blow the soft junk off the underside of the valve.
Wash, rinse, repeat as needed. Yes, the soft junk goes up into the runners.
This works.
fury fan
Senior Member
Lots of clever tricks in there, I hope I remember them if I ever need them!
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