Rear Axle Bearing Noise

There are some 8 3/4 and Dana housings that have a removable plug at the bearing area that one can replace with a zerk fitting. I've seen them on factory Hemi equipped cars and some HD 440 equipped cars.
It might be a possible to drill and tap one yourself.
 
Making more progress, removed the old inner seals today and cleaned the axles and bearings with Brakleen. I've ordered new backing plate gaskets and seals. I love the picture in the FSM showing removing the seal with a slide hammer puller, like it will just pop out. Like every other axle seal I've done I needed a hacksaw blade, chisel, screwdriver and hammer to get them out! I also cleaned up the backing plates, it is obvious that there have been many leaks for a long time...

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Slide hammer works. Drill a small hole in the metal part of the seal, seat a sheet metal screw in the seal with the collar for the slide hammer attached, screw the collar onto the slide hammer and let the slide hammer do its work. This method avoids putting any grooves or other damage to the capture point for the seal. Check the axle in the photo carefully, it looks to have a cut just above the bearing retainer, this is a potential fracture point. The retaining collar also has some groove marks from riding on the housing, this usually happens when a failed bearing gives way. Failed bearing likely also caused the cut to the axle from the metal part of the seal contacting the axle. The cut in the axle is also the probable cause of the oil leak as the seal can not stop oil from getting past the cut do to the lack of a good bonding surface.

Dave
 
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Inner seal, lip faces in toward differential, keeps the oil in center and out of grease on the bearing.
 
Plews part #05-025, available at most auto parts or on line
I don't own one of those. I've got a Lisle 65250 "universal bearing packer" that I generally use for wheel bearing jobs. Does the bearing just slide up and off the axle? or is that collar pressed on and not easliy removed?

Looks like I may need to get the Plews needle or something similar when I get one of these rear axles for my project.
 
I don't own one of those. I've got a Lisle 65250 "universal bearing packer" that I generally use for wheel bearing jobs. Does the bearing just slide up and off the axle? or is that collar pressed on and not easliy removed?

Looks like I may need to get the Plews needle or something similar when I get one of these rear axles for my project.

It is pressed on.

Dave
 
Just hand pack it the outside race is loose. With the adjuster backed off there is a ton of room to push grease into the rollers and between the race and bearing.
 
I pack MY axle bearings by placing them in a plastic freezer bag, then put plenty grease down there with the bearing, and I work it into every space available on that bearing, then use nitrile gloves to handle it when I take it out of the bag. If I miss a spot, it goes back until its thoroughly packed. I drove with a nicked journal for over 4 years, , which sure enough destroyed the seal and doused bearings and brakes with differential gear oil after the 4th year, so I bought an axle, redid the job, and had no further trouble to date until the car got wrecked. I may well use that rear end on the '68, as I suspect some yabo changed out the original 2:76 gears for something lower and more petrol thirsty! We'll find out later this month about THAT.
 
two thumbs up for 413's tech support
set the end play for 0.0050 inches.
use a NOS seal- far superior to aftermarket and there are plenty out there. Maybe one of the smarter people can provide the part number.
synthetic wheel bearing grease
synthetic lube
The 1970 service manual says the end play should be between .008 and .018

So 0.0050 Or .005 is too tight.
 
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