Rear coilovers for C-body

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:BangHead:
I thank everyone for there input! Commando you did nothing but do nothing criticize everything in all my post! If want to spend the 600$ on shocks it’s my money not yours!
 
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I thank everyone for there input! Commando you did nothing but do nothing criticize all my in every post! If want to spend the 600$ on shocks it’s my money not yours!
@commando1 is a good guy and won't steer you wrong. These cars were set up pretty good for the factory, and don't need many upgrades to handle well. Coil over shocks, or rear coil springs wouldn't really help any better. Like @polara71 said, replace all the suspension items and get stiffer springs, add a rear sway bar, and you're good to go. Unless you're going to go pro touring and create a new chassis, no need to reinvent the wheel.
 
@commando1 is a good guy and won't steer you wrong. These cars were set up pretty good for the factory, and don't need many upgrades to handle well. Coil over shocks, or rear coil springs wouldn't really help any better. Like @polara71 said, replace all the suspension items and get stiffer springs, add a rear sway bar, and you're good to go. Unless you're going to go pro touring and create a new chassis, no need to reinvent the wheel.
Thanks!
 
I thank everyone for there input! Commando you did nothing but do nothing criticize everything in all my post! If want to spend the 600$ on shocks it’s my money not yours!


Understand, you are new, were a bit vague in wants , needs , desires and what fors. WE see posts like yours frequently with little to no follow up ever after the initial sign up. I hope you continue to come visit, Commando is not wrong in his frustration.
 
Put dat **** on da ground dawg!!!

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Nothing you do to a fusey suspension will make it a good-handling car by today's standards. Loading the upper shock mounts can produce some interesting results under the wrong circumstances. You can add hauling capacity and tighten it up with stuff like this, but that's going to be your best goal for a c-bod. Just enjoy the smooth ride!
 
Monroe offers coil overs.
58577 :: e-Catalog :: MONROE® SHOCKS & STRUTS
View attachment 430064
My experience on C bodies is you only gain an inch of rear height if your springs are bagged out or weak.
They can be harsh around town but ride better with a load aboard.
Yet as mentioned putting more stress on the rear crossmember.
Band-aid really.
With ESPO and Alcan offering replacement C body springs they are a better solution to a saggy rear end.
Buy Quality Automotive Leaf Springs, Coil Springs and Suspension Parts for your Classic or Antique Auto
Alcan Spring • Custom Leaf Springs • Handmade in the USA
 
Monroe offers coil overs.
58577 :: e-Catalog :: MONROE® SHOCKS & STRUTS
View attachment 430064
My experience on C bodies is you only gain an inch of rear height if your springs are bagged out or weak.
They can be harsh around town but ride better with a load aboard.
Yet as mentioned putting more stress on the rear crossmember.
Band-aid really.
With ESPO and Alcan offering replacement C body springs they are a better solution to a saggy rear end.
Buy Quality Automotive Leaf Springs, Coil Springs and Suspension Parts for your Classic or Antique Auto
Alcan Spring • Custom Leaf Springs • Handmade in the USA
My Fury had these (Midas branded) on it for more than 20 years and they didn't damage anything. The crossmember while not built like its for a truck is fairly stout & unless seriously corroded should be fine. I have Gabriel Hijackers on it now. Should it have new springs? Perhaps but to many other projects going on. Has anyone actually seen the crossmember damaged from shock choice? Maybe if seriously overloaded or towing.
 
For what it's worth, I installed air shocks similar to these on my '68 Fury 4-door sedan:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NS_MA828
They were like 60 bucks at the time I bought them. They worked fine for about 6 or 7 years until the air fill-line broke; I never fixed them. My '68 Fury was riding too low for the speed bumps (called "topes") down in Mexico where it lives. We used to cruise around with 3 or even 4 people in the rear seat and had to unload passengers to get over the speed bumps! After the air shocks I just pumped them up and had plenty of clearance even with a full load.
It was a cheap option for me at the time and fit my needs. Never had any issues from the shocks lifting on the body although I understand there are concerns there. People told me my frame would buckle in half too after I cut the roof off (same car). Never had any issues or sagging with that after over 20 years of hard driving on mostly washboard roads...
 
Do yourself a big favor, if your *** is draggin' contact ESPO Springs and tell them what you have and they will send you a new set of springs. Think of it this way, it took 60 years for your original springs to fail. An new set should las almost as long. How old will you be when they need replaced again? I'll be 115! Catch my drift? Fix it once......fix it right.
 
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View attachment 432595 Nothing you do to a fusey suspension will make it a good-handling car by today's standards. Loading the upper shock mounts can produce some interesting results under the wrong circumstances. You can add hauling capacity and tighten it up with stuff like this, but that's going to be your best goal for a c-bod. Just enjoy the smooth ride!

Where'd that rear sway bar come from???? Inquiring mind desires to know!

I'm convinced that a good ride and good handling can be had in non-modern vehicles. The "bone" are already there, just got to add some muscle.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Where'd that rear sway bar come from????
It's a generic/universal bar from Megs, IIRC. The install is a custom job, reversing the traditional setup, hanging it from the frame rails. I learned to weld at an early age, so metalwork has always been one of my hobbies. The C-Bod was my truck for a long time, before I could afford to buy a real pickup. :)
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Has anyone actually seen the crossmember damaged from shock choice?

Yep. Seen a few.

In fact, I once bought a '69 340 Dart (cheap) that the crossmember was torn apart from air shock or coil over usage. Had to weld in new metal around the area where the mounts had torn out.

If you look at the area, you can really see that it's not built as a load bearing area. I'm sure that you can get away with occasional use at higher pressures, but over the long term, it's just not designed for the job.

Addressing everything else discussed here...

It makes zero sense to me to spend the money to band-aid the suspension with air shocks, which will only really buy you a return to ride height without any gains in handling. For a few more dollars, you can replace the springs, get the ride height and handling back. From there you can tune it with some good quality shocks... and no, I don't think you need to spend a gadzillion dollars on QA shocks. This is an old Mopar.

Adding a rear sway bar has been suggested, but I would also suggest that with that, a larger front sway bar be added as just adding a rear bar can bring on an oversteer issue if you really pushed the car. (and nobody really does)

These cars handled well for their time period. But they weren't Ferraris then and they are never going to be now. Best things you can do is first tighten up what's there, refine and tune it a bit... and then remember you are driving a 50 year old big car.

Then if you really want it to handle well, go take a course in some sort of high performance driving. You'll suddenly find that the real limitation is sitting behind the wheel.
 
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