Replace or rebuild tranny?

65 Polara 500

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Now that I have put this much effort into removing the trans to replace the flex plate, I don’t want to have to do it again at a later date. So my thought is to rebuild it or replace it. Replacing it creates some concerns . Knowing this tranny is unique having two shifting cables going to it, would I be able to replace it with a one cable system without having to replace my shifter? Rebuilding it, would it require a different rebuild kit or would it be the same as a regular 727 torqueflight?
 
Not likely to "replace" a '65 trans at all. There is no swapping from two cables to one, etc. There are ways to change the set-up, but it's going to add complexity. You'll need to rebuild what you have, which is not really a big deal. Unfortunately, as I mentioned earlier, you really need to troubleshoot the issue you have experienced.... Block to trans alignment is a bona-fide concern. Look closely at the converter hub when you get it out. Any wear, or maybe a sharp edge there?? Please refresh....what do you know about this car?? Been assembled for years you say... who put it together? You, or a shop?? Why was it apart years ago??
Best of luck, Lefty71
 
When I bought the car it was all original, I had a very reputable shop swap out the 383 for a completely rebuilt 440 (they also did the rebuild). We did no work to the transmission, and I do not believe it was ever taking out of the car. I did have them install a new converter.
 
Everything for the early 727’s is available, clutches, bands, seals, bushings and gaskets are all no problem to get. During the rebuild it is a little different because of the rear pump but not a big deal. If the transmission was working properly then all of your hard parts should be fine. Because of the flex plate issue I would make sure the torque converter bushing is replaced and all other bushings checked for wear. I would also recommend the TC be replaced but then again if it was working properly the the hub is in good shape it could be flushed and reused. If you do get a new one make sure it is for the early 727 as they have a 19 spline the 67 and up have a 24 spline.
 
Network with the local Mopar community in your area and inquire about a GOOD trans shop which KNOWS TorqueFlites. NOT just somebody who has done a few, but a competent shop to rebuild your transmission and do it RIGHT. Ask the shop for an inspection of the front pump bushing area BEFORE doing any work! Then go from there.

Main area of concern is the converter/front pump area. Specifically, the bushing and seal the converter rides in. Which would mean that if everything else was operating correctly, no "full rebuild" at this time, just fix what is needed in the front pump area.

In the middle of all of this, have you determined WHY the flex plate bolts got loose? That should be a primary concern, to me. Is the converter correct (as to hub configuration) for the motor you have? Just curious.

Take care,
CBODY67
 
Has a 19 spline input shaft and cable shift system. Unless you want to change everything, shifter, converter, and trans your better off just rebuilding the one you have.
 
Rebuild the one you have.

I say this for two reasons.

First is you are going to have trouble getting the right trans. You have a cable shifted trans with a rear pump. There's not a lot out there.

Second reason is this, and it may be more important. Anything you buy is someone else's discard. They needed a rebuild for one reason or another and swapped in their core. Sounds good until you realize that the rebuilders had to not only rebuild, but solve whatever problem was there. Rebuilding a 727 isn't that hard... I've done them myself. Finding a problem and curing it is much harder... and even harder when the rebuilder never drove the car and is really flying blind. So you might get a good trans... or maybe someone else's crap that is going to give you nightmares... and your core trans, the one that worked, is gone.

Your trans works... That's big... It's just tired, not broken. If you want it rebuilt, great... Find a good trans shop (BTW, a good trans shop doesn't have AAMCO over the door) and get it rebuilt.
 
What year was the 440 they swapped in? Basically 1973 up have external balance crankshafts they need torque converter weights and different harmonic balancers. While your sorting everything, make sure it is matched to the required external pieces.
 
What year was the 440 they swapped in? Basically 1973 up have external balance crankshafts they need torque converter weights and different harmonic balancers. While your sorting everything, make sure it is matched to the required external pieces.
65, internally balanced
 
Knowing this tranny is unique having two shifting cables going to it, would I be able to replace it with a one cable system without having to replace my shifter? Rebuilding it, would it require a different rebuild kit or would it be the same as a regular 727 torqueflight?

You can rebuild a Torqueflight in your sleep, with a little training. I built dozens back in the day, on a spool in my backyard, all with Transgo shift kits, fun.

Just thinking about replacing it would point to a serious need for counseling.

(BTW, a good trans shop doesn't have AAMCO over the door)


I worked at AAMCO back in '78. You can never forget the smell of a tranny shop.

I could tell you stories... like the junk fried transmission in pieces on a rolling cart they would show customers, none of them savyy enough to know the diff between a Turbo 350 or a C4, because Chrysler products were never any shop's "bread and butter", much too reliable.

One time, we had to grab ball peen hammers to protect the owner from an enraged customer who figured out he was getting ripped off.

The owner's name was Dick, never tired of telling customers how he'd been an airplane mechanic for 20 years and "never had a comeback".

Fun times.
 
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What I would do if I read your problems correctly......If the transmission was working properly before the loose flex plate, and the fluid is a nice out-of-the-can red, I would just pull the pump assembly out, replace the bushing and seal, inspect or replace the pump gears as necessary and put it back together. In stall a new (or excellent used) flex plate with new bolts that have thread sealer on them. As mentioned, make sure the converter matches the type of balance your engine has, and also matches the front pump in the transmission too. Forged crank=no weights welded to the converter......cast crank= weight(s) depending on the year. A cast crank converter for a '65 transmission would have to be custom made, or an aftermarket flex plate that doesn't require weights. Also as mentioned, '65 models didn't have a 440 engine option. They didn't start until '66 and even those were only available in a C-body or Imperial. Knowing exactly what parts are in the car is most important when trying to get things to work together properly.
 
I would just pull the pump assembly out, replace the bushing and seal, inspect or replace the pump gears as necessary and put it back together.
Or not do anything at all if the pump wasn't leaking, the bushing/seal/gears are probably fine.
 
What year was the 440 they swapped in? Basically 1973 up have external balance crankshafts they need torque converter weights and different harmonic balancers. While your sorting everything, make sure it is matched to the required external pieces.

Do you really have a 65 440? I have only seen one early casting 440. If you have a 65 block casting then you have a rare engine. Very cool!
This could be key right here.... Hopefully the OP doesnt have a cast crank 440 in there, ya know almost balanced, with the right front damper, but the wrong converter???
 
Are we talking about an OEM, early production 440, date-code verified, that somehow got installed into a 1965 model year vehicle? Or possibly an over-bored 426 Wedge? In what vehicle?

Just curious,
CBODY67
 
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