Replacing the Cam

I can't believe they {Chrysler} actually put slant 6's in these sized cars. I have seen a few in 69 fury's. Can't imagine how slow they must be. Is a slant 6 lighter than a 318 or heavier? In any case I would think a Fury with a 318 or /6 must handle a good bit better than my 440 fury.
I appreciate the advice you have shared. The car handles like a champ. Especially since I removed the lowering blocks and replaced them with air shocks. The guy that had the car before me took care of the car, but he also made it look tacky and like a gangster car.
The carburetor needs repair anyway so I am going with an Edelbrock.
 
I remember as a kid I owned a 1966 Dodge Coronette and it had a 273 V8. I needed tires and could only afford 2 . I bought two off the widest I guess bias ply tires I could afford and as an experiment I mounted them in the front. The skinnier tires in the rear. For the the time anyways everyone including me were very impressed with the handling of the car. Keep us posted on your car and a few more pics wouldn't hurt either!
 
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Dumb question: Is it possible to install a cam while the motor is still in the car?
Yes it can be done, but you're better off pulling the whole motor so you can install a looser torque convertor. You will at the very minimum have to upgrade your torque convertor if you expect to get any positive results from running a bigger cam. Otherwise the car will become sluggish off the line and have poor acceleration. It would also be wise to have the proper valve springs installed with your new cam.
 
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You have to replace the valve springs. As long as the cam choice is solid, you sure as hell do not need a torque convertor. You have to pull the radiator and condensor if you have AC. With a small block I do not think you have to touch the grille. I've done more than a dozen in-car cam replacements over the years. You don't pull the engine when you want to test a different camshaft.
In any event - keep the cam smaller: like less than 220° duration at .050". It will love it. The 2bbl cam won't move enough air to make good use of the intake, carb, and headers working together. I'd suggest the Comp XE256 or XE262 and a set of 901-16 springs.
 
Even with a mildly warmed over cam, low end power losses and poor throttle response will definitely be noticed. Unless you plan on swapping out your converter changing out your cam will be a complete waste of time and money. If your budget is tight, the best thing to do is keep the two barrel carb and leave it the way it is. Trying to take shortcuts in order to save money will guarantee less than desired results. Trust me I've tried the whole budget build in the past and I don't care what anybody says, It Doesn't Work! and Never Will Work! So go ahead and try it ,see what happens but don't say nobody warned you.
 
STEADY FELLAS!

I'm sure there's logic to both ideas, concepts. What if I have converted her from 2bbl to 4bbl with a performer eddy intake? I guess I'm trying to squeeze out some HP's
 
STEADY FELLAS!

I'm sure there's logic to both ideas, concepts. What if I have converted her from 2bbl to 4bbl with a performer eddy intake? I guess I'm trying to squeeze out some HP's
That what I did with my 383, actually it was done before I got the car, but would have happened anyways! With just the intake and carb I didn't need to do anything else. When I went with my 440 (all broken in already said the seller) and the cam wiped itself out, I put in a .484 Purple shaft cam, at the same time I went with a high stall converter. I might have been able to get away with a stock converter, but I think the higher stall is much better. It's around 2500-2800. I also went with a manual valve body, but I wanted the shifts to be much firmer, I doubt it had any effect on the engines behavior.
 
That what I did with my 383, actually it was done before I got the car, but would have happened anyways! With just the intake and carb I didn't need to do anything else. When I went with my 440 (all broken in already said the seller) and the cam wiped itself out, I put in a .484 Purple shaft cam, at the same time I went with a high stall converter. I might have been able to get away with a stock converter, but I think the higher stall is much better. It's around 2500-2800. I also went with a manual valve body, but I wanted the shifts to be much firmer, I doubt it had any effect on the engines behavior.
I believe I will go with an Edelbrock 4bbl carburetor and replacing the intake. I already have the Edelbrock Intake that I bought at a swap meet. The 318 runs great and the interior really needs reupholstering. And like someone on here said, I will wait until I can afford to do it right before I start replacing engine parts.
I also want to thank everyone for the great advice. This is a great forum and the members on here are very helpful. I have posted some pictures in my photo garage on here. Take a look and see what I am working on. I will post more pictures as I finish it little by little.
 
Did you find out what your rear end ratio is?
 
Not that I like to recommend it much - I suggest you read ANY cam catalog. There are probably more than 100 grinds from all manufacturers that are designed to work with the factory convertors. Factory convertors stall around 1500-1800 rpm depending on the car, the gearing, and the altitude among other things. There will be no response "delay" in any camshaft that is designed to start making power below that. So anything that say "idle - xxxx" will work, and most that say "1200 - " or "1500 - xxxx" will also work. most actually say "will work sith stock convertor" right in the listing.
My point was, a blanket statement to that regard, with someone who's new to things, does nothing to help the situation. You most certainly can change cams with nothing else "downstream". My own 383 2bbl got a 4bbl and an MP hydraulic that they no longer make. Stock convertor, shift kit, 2.76 gearing. Never had any issues with any "power loss" in a '71 4dr Newport. Because it was the right cam choice for the package I had. Buy a cam with a power level in mind, you have to change other parts or live with the effects of mismatch. Chose a cam to enhance what you already have, is exactly what you're supposed to do.
 
I finally had the chance to install an Edelbrock 600 4 bbl Carb and replaced the Intake. It gave me a lot more power, but I should have followed the advice of replacing the headers and cam. But I really need to get it reupholstered and didn't have the funds. But I will admit that y'all were right. Thank all of you for the advice.
On a side note, the new carb has an electric choke and I have to get into the habit of not patting the gas before cranking it.
IMG_20170211_081145.jpg
 
There are two issues with the 318 LA. One is breathing and the other is compression. At TDC, the piston is a good 1/2" below deck... so regardless of head size, your compression is going to suck unless you replace your pistons and mill to accommodate for that difference.
Breath wise, your heads and manifolds are constricted either way.. an upgrade to later magnum heads will help this and this warrant a more aggressive cam... otherwise you're not going to notice much gain that way.
In my 318, I plopped a 650 CFM Eddy on a performer manifold, added dual exhaust and called it a day.. it was enough power to move her around, cheap enough to keep me in fuel and way less headache than trying to make the motor what it was not.
Gears? I'd so much rather be turning 2000-2500 @ 75mph than to gain very little off the line.

But then;
Who am I to judge YOU!
 
Dumb question: Is it possible to install a cam while the motor is still in the car?

I've been slowly working on my Imperial with the cam and head gasket replacement. I'm replacing the cam/lifters because I drove the car sparingly with a bad lifter for about a year. Then just before parking it for the season I noticed the condensation from the exhaust had coolant coming out the tailpipe AKA blown head gasket. So my project got a little more involved.
I've looked on you tube for self help vids, but didn't find anything for c bodies. The nice thing about these cars is they aren't that complicated to work on, even for a novice.
If planning on taking on this yourself, take pics and bag & tag everything.
I I removed my cam today. Following are some pics of the progress:
Fan_shroud removed.jpeg
2 timing mark.jpeg
3 ready to disassemble.jpeg
4 pull harmonic balancer.jpeg
5 progress pic.jpeg
6 remove valve train.jpeg
 
7 timing marks.jpeg
8 keep in order.jpeg
9 use bolt to grip cam.jpeg
10 dismount condensor.jpeg
11 pull gear out.jpeg
12 remove cam.jpeg
More pics of cam removal.
Next step is to remove the heads, but that's for another day.
 
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